THE  LIBRARY 


THE  UNIVERSITY 


OF  CALIFORNIA 


LOS  ANGELES 


GIFT  OF 

Neil  G.  Needham 


THE  LIFE,  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 


AMERICAN  WANDERER: 


A  TRUTHFUL  NARRATIVE  OF  EVENTS 


IN   THE   LIKE   OK 


ALONZO  P.  DEMILT. 


Containing  His  Early  Adventures  among  the  Indians  of  Florida,  ;  His 
Life  in  the  Gold  Mines  of  California,  and  Australia  ;  His  Ex- 
plorations of  the  Andes  and  the  Amazon  and  its  Tribu- 
taries, etc.,  el:.,  Interspersed iviih 

SKETCHES     AND     NARRATIVES 

Illustrating  Life,  Planners,    Customs    and  Scenery  in   Mexico,  Central 

America,  Pern.  Brazil,  Australia,  the  South  Sea  Islands,  and 

the  United  States.     With  Numerous  Engravings. 


BY  FRANKLIN  Y.  FITCH, 


NEW  YORK: 

JOHN  W.  LOVELL  COMPANY, 
14  &  1 6  VESEY  STREET. 


Copyright,  1883,  by 

ALONZO  P.  DEM'ILT. 

All  rights  reserved. 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 


1.  PORTRAIT,           ....  f-Tr»nt'i*piece. 

2.  SETTING  OUT  IN  LIFK — LEAVING  ST.  MARK'S  LIGHTHOUSE,    16 

3.  CHASTISING  THE  "  BLACK  CUPID,           .  .                .40 

4.  CAMIJ  IN  MORMON  GULCH,              .  .               .18 

5.  STREET  SCEXE  IN  SAX  FIJAXCISCO.       .  .                .70 

6.  LEAVING  FOR  AUSTRALIA,  !><S 

7.  OVEN'S  DIGGIXGS,  AUSTRALIA,                .  .                .     110 

8.  BUCKLY  RIVER  DIGGINGS,  AUSTRALIA,          .  .             128 

9.  CROSSING  SOUTH  AMERICA,      .               .  .                .     l.r>2 

10.  ENCOUNTER  WITH  A  SNAKE,           .               .  .            172 

11.  THE  JAGUAR,  OR  BRAZILIAN  TIGER,     .  .     188 

12.  BAY  OF  Rio  DE  JANEIRO,  ]            .  19n 


883315 


TO    THE    MEMORY    OF 

CLARA    L.    DEMILT, 
THE  FAITHFUL  WIFE  AND  LOVING   MOTHER, 

TO   WHOSE    EFFORTS    IS   MAINLY   DUE   THE 

ACCOMPLISHMENT     OF    THIS    TASK. 

THIS    LITTLE   VOLUME   IS 

DEDICATED,    BY 

THE    WANDERER. 


PREFACE. 


MANY  delays  and  annoyances,  of  a  more  or  less  serious 
character — arising  from  the  necessary  absence  of  the 
books,  papers,  and  other  sources  of  information,  which 
are  always  at  one's  disposal  in  the  larger  cities — have 
accompanied  the  task  of  composition  in  the  preparation  of 
this  little  volume  for  the  press. 

The  wonderfully  retentive  memory  of  Col.  DeMilt  has 
been  almost  my  sole  reliance  in  the  matter  of  the  dates, 
facts  and  incidents  connected  with  his  story;  with  the 
assistance,  however,  of  a  number  of  letters  written  by  him 
at  different  points  to  friends  at  home,  and  which  have  now 
been  kindly  returned  to  him,  temporarily,  at  his  request. 
The  fact  of  our  task  having  been  prosecuted  and  accom- 
plished at  this  place,  within  a  few  miles  of  where 
his  adventures  began,  has,  without  doubt,  materially 
aided  him  in  refreshing  his  memory,  and  assisted  him  in 
calling  to  mind  incidents  in  his  adventurous  life,  which 
had  otherwise  escaped  him. 

Looking  out  from  the  cool  conservatory  window  of 
The  Wanderer's  winter  residence,  upon  the  woods,  hills, 
and  green  slopes  of  Middle  Florida,  with  the  site  of  the 
old  Spanish  Fort  of  San  Luis  in  full  view,  my  task,  with 
agreeable  incidents  and  enjoyable  surroundings,  has  been 
a  particularly  pleasant  one  ;  although  the  fact  that  I  have 
seen,  and  am  familiar,  from  personal  observation,  with 
many  of  the  localities  mentioned  by  De  Milt,  constitutes, 
perhaps,  my  only  claim  to  any  particular  fitness  for  it. 

THE  AUTHOR. 

TALLAHASSEE,  Fla.,  June  22d,  1883. 


INTRODUCTION. 


THIS  volume,  as  its  title  purports,  is  simply  a  record  of 
the  ramblings  and  adventures  of  a  young  and  very  adven- 
turous American,  who,  commencing  at  the  age  of  nine 
years,  makes  a  bold  midnight  escape  from  the  light- 
house keeper  of  St.  Marks,  Fla.,  with  whom  he  had  been 
left  an  orphan,  roams  around  with  soldiers  and  Indians, 
figures  as  a  boy  gold-hunter  in  California  and  Australia, 
crosses  the  Andes  of  South  America,  paddles  down  the 
Amazon,  5,000  miles,  in  a  dug-out,  doubles  Cape  Horn, 
takes  photographs  in  New  Grenada,  eats  poi  with  the 
Hawaiians,  clams  with  the  Patagonians,  contends  with 
bad  men,  and  makes  love  to  pretty  girls — a  narrative  of 
facts  in  a  remarkable  life. 

The  fact  that  the  travels  of  this  adventurous  young 
man,  his  escapades,  love-scrapes,  etc.,  were  mainly  con- 
fined to  the  American  or  Western  hemisphere,  is  one 
which,  in  the  judgment  of  the  author,  will  neither  detract 
from  the  interest  or  diminish  the  value  of  this  book.  In 
the  wholesale  buying,  reading,  and  writing  of  non-Ameri- 
can books,  we  work  over  a  territory  which  has  already 
been  well  worked  out,  and  leave  the  rich  soil  of  our  own 
fields  uncultivated.  No  country,  in  my  judgment,  offers  a 
more  attractive  or  remarkable  field  to  the  poet  or  novelist 
than  that  offered  by  tropical  America. 


viii  INTRODUCTION. 

In  no  part  of  the  earth's  surface,  in  the  first  place,  has 
day  ever  dawned  upon  such  a  series  of  wonderful  events 
and  wonderful  men,  on  such  a  scene  of  romance,  on  such 
instances  of  human  endurance,  courage,  sacrifice  and  suf- 
fering. The  terrible  iniquities  of  Cortez  and  Pizarro,  the 
adventures  of  Balboa,  Morgan,  the  buccaneer,  Lussan, — 
even  the  career  of  the  men  who  projected  and  built  the 
Panama  Railroad — whose  every  cross-tie  marks  a  human 
grave — their  history  and  their  times,  individually  or  col- 
lectively, stand  without  parallel.  With  its  wealth  of  bright 
senoras  and  brave  cavaliers,  with  its  ten  thousand  won- 
derful legends  of  battles,  sieges,  pestilences,  conquests  ; 
its  old-time  troops  of  hardy  buccaneers,  who  preyed  upon 
the  gold-laden  galleons  in  the  Spanish  main  and  divided 
the  spoils  in  caves  where  eternal  summer  smiled,  tropi- 
cal America  from  the  Rio  Grande  to  the  Amazon,  would 
tell,  could  it  speak,  in  dark  glade,  broad  savanna,  and 
purpling  sea,  a  wonderful,  wonderful  tale. 

One  of  the  most  pleasing  occurrences  in  the  life  of 
Col.  De  Milt,  was  his  meeting  in  after  life  with  ex-Gov. 
David  S.  Walker,  of  Tallahassee,  Fla.,  a  gentleman  of  the 
best  school  of  the  best  stock,  and  first  cousin  of  Phil.  M. 
Barbour,  DeMilt's  earliest  protector  and  friend.  In  his  early 
youth,  and  while  accompanying  Lieut.  Barbour  to  the 
Florida  capital,  where  citizen  and  soldier  mingled  in  the 
gayeties  of  the  time,  DeMilt  had  often  seen  Gov.  Walker, 
and  the  memory  of  many  long-forgotten  incidents  was 
revived  by  this — a  meeting  of  importance,  and  a  source  of 
unfeigned  pleasure  to  the  Wanderer. 


THE  LIFE,  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTUKES 

OF   AN 

AMERICAN     WANDERER. 


CHAPTER  I. 

Birth,  parentage  and  eventful  childhood  of  the  Wanderer 
— Baron  Henry  Pierre  DeMilt — Removal  to  Florida — • 
— Yellow  fever — Our  hero  left  an  orphan— The  tav- 
ern-keeper— The  lighthouse  of  St.  Marks- — Escape  from 
the  light-keeper  and  entrance  on  a  wandering  life. 

ALONZO  PIERRE  DEMILT,  the  hero  of  these 
pages,  and  whose  life  from  childhood,  as  will  be 
seen,  was  such  a  varied  and  remarkable  one, 
was  born  in  New  York  City  on  the  third  day  of 
September,  1831.  On  both  his  father's  and 
mother's  side,  the  ancestral  record  of  the  family 
runs  back  to  the  earliest  days  of  settlement  of 
New  Amsterdam  by  Huguenot  and  Knicker- 
bocker, and  is  also  traced  to  Baron  Henry 


jo         THE  LIFE,  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

Pierre  DeMilt,  of  Normandy,  France.  Antoine 
DeMilt,  son  of  the  Baron,  was  a  Huguenot,  and 
sailed  to  America  in  the  ship  New  Netherland 
in  the  year  1623  with  his  friend  Jasen  de  Rapelje. 
Antione  settled  on  Long  Island,  bought  land, 
and  engaged  himself  in  politics.  He  was  elect- 
ed schout  fiscal  in  1674,  and  died  shortly  after, 
leaving  two  sons.  One  of  these  sons,  Pierre  by 
name,  was  the  great  grandfather  of  the  hero  of 
this  volume.  Peter  Delanoy,  of  the  maternal 
branch,  was  a  native  of  Holland,  a  successful 
man  in  politics  and  trade,  and  mayor  of  New 
York  in  1689. 

The  families  of  DeMilt  and  Delanoy  were 
united  about  the  year  1815  by  the  marriage  of 
Daniel  DeMilt  and  Sarah  Delanoy.  This  mar- 
riage was  opposed  by  the  relations  of  DeMilt 
with  some  vigor,  but  was  nevertheless  consum- 
mated, and  proved  a  happy  match  in  every  re- 
spect. The  result  of  this  union  was  the  birth  of 
four  children,  Alonzo,  Henry,  Elizabeth  and 
Frances.  Henry  died  in  his  second  year. 

For  reasons  which  were  never  clearly  under- 
stood by  Alonzo,  his  parents  in  the  year  1839 
removed  to  Florida,  and  settled  at  Port  Leon, 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  j  r 

near  the  gulf  coast,  and  twenty-eight  or  thirty 
miles  from  the  capital.  Port  Leon,  at  that  time 
was  a  thriving  cotton  market,  and  a  town  of 
promise,  but  was  entirely  swept  away  by  a  tor- 
nado in  1842  or  1843,  and  was  never  rebuilt. 
Scarcely  a  vestige  of  it  now  exists.  During 
the  second  year  of  the  DeMilts'  residence  at 
Port  Leon,  the  place  was  scourged  by  a  terrible 
yellow  fever  epidemic.  Daniel  DeMilt  and  his 
wife  Sarah  were  among  the  first  to  be  seized* 
and  among  the  first  to  die  of  the  terrible  plague. 
Little  Frances  soon  followed  her  parents  to  the 
grave,  and  Alonzo,  whom  fate  seemed  thus  early 
to  have  marked  out  for  a  wanderer,  and  his  sister 
Elizabeth,  a  mere  infant,  were  left  destitute  and 
friendless — orphans  in  the  hands  of  strangers, 
with  their  only  natural  protectors  sleeping  be- 
neath the  green  sod  of  the  old  graveyard. 

In  old  Port  Leon,  just  across  the  street  from 
the  house  in  which  perished  the  parents  of 
Alonzo,  was  a  sailors'  tavern,  kept  by  a  bluff 
character  by  the  name  of  Densmore.  Dens- 
more  had  naturally  seen  and  heard  much  of  our 
little  hero,  a  robust,  active  and  intelligent  lad, 
and  seemed  to  have  formed  an  attachment  for 


I2          THE  LIFE,  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

him.  Be  that  as  it  may,  however,  on  the 
death  of  Alonzo's  parents,  Densmore  volun- 
teered to  take  charge  of  the  lad,  took  him  into 
his  house,  and  treated  him  with  consideration 
for  some  time.  Densmore's  place  contained  a 
bar,  where  liquors  were  dispensed  to  the  thirsty 
jack-tars  of  Port  Leon,  and  Alonzo  soon  discov- 
ered that  it  was  Densmore's  intention  to  make  a 
lackey,  bar-keeper,  and  general  drudge  of  him, 
and  resolved  to  depart  from  the  place  forthwith, 
casting  about  for  an  opportunity  to  do  so, 
which  fortune  soon  furnished  him. 

In  the  course  of  his  stay  at  this  tavern,  or 
sailors,  snug  harbor,  Alonzo  had  formed  the  ac- 
quaintance of  a  sturdy,  kind-hearted  pilot,  of 
the  name  of  David  Kennedy,  who  at  that  time 
was  acting  as  keeper  of  the  lighthouse  of  St. 
Marks,  a  few  miles  distant.  Kennedy  was  in  the 
habit  of  dropping  into  the  tavern  occasionally, 
and  was  quite  an  habitue  of  the  place,  and 
was  attracted  towards  young  Alonzo.  A  con- 
fidential friendship  was  soon  established  between 
the  bluff  pilot  and  the  young  orphan  lad,  and 
Alonzo  soon  communicated  to  his  friend  his  re- 
solve to  leave.  Kennedy  promised  to  aid  him 


OF  AN  AMERICAN   WANDERER.  13 

to  any  extent  in  his  power,  and  finally  proposed 
that  young  Alonzo  accompany  him  to  the 
lighthouse,  and  make  his  home  there,  promis- 
ing him  kind  friends  and  good  treatment. 
Alonzo  accepted  this  offer  on  the  spot.  Alonzo 
was  instructed  to  stow  himself  away  in  Ken- 
nedy's little  pilot  boat,  bound  down  the  river,  as 
it  was  known  that  Densmore's  consent  to  the 
lad's  departure  could  not  be  obtained.  The 
plan  was  successfully  carried  out.  On  a  dark 
night,  when  there  was  no  moon,  the  lad  slipped 
away  from  Densmore,  boarded  the  boat,  secreted 
himself  behind  some  old  cordage  and  sails,  and 
was  soon  outward  bound,  slipping  safely  past 
the  fleet  at  Spanish  Hole,  with  his  childish 
curiosity  wonderfully  excited  by  the  phosphores- 
cence of  the  waters  as  they  glided  along. 

The  young  adventurer  was  warmly  welcomed 
at  the  lighthouse  by  Kennedy's  wife  and  chil- 
dren, of  whom  there  were  four.  Alonzo  re- 
mained with  his  new-found  benefactors  for  the 
space  of  three  or  four  weeks,  contented  and 
happy.  Elizabeth,  his  little  sister,  was  in  the 
meantime  being  cared  for  by  a  widow  lady, 
Mrs.  Spencer,  of  Port  Leon.  The  orphans, 


J4.         THE  LIFE,  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

brother  and  sister,  were  thus  parted  in  their 
infancy — each  ignorant  of  the  other's  where- 
abouts, and  only  to  meet  again  after  months  of 
separation,  after  the  endurance  of  many  trials, 
yet  under  remarkable  and  romantic  circum- 
stances. But  of  this  more  anon. 

Now,  at  Fort  Stansberry,  a  military  post  of 
the  time  of  the  Indian  wars  of  Florida,  about 
eighteen  miles  from  the  lighthouse,  was 
stationed  a  young  officer,  Lieut.  Phil  M.  Bar- 
bour,  of  Lexington,  Ky.,  then  acting  adjutant 
of  the  Third  Infantry  Regiment,  Col.  Hitch- 
cock commanding.  Barbour  had  known  the 
De.Milt  family  in  New  York,  and  since  their 
removal  to  Florida  had  visited  them  at  their 
home  in  Port  Leon — calling  upon  them  from 
time  to  time  as  business  or  his  duties  called  him 
to  the  neighborhood.  He  was  at  the  fort  at 
the  time  of  the  death  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  DeMilt, 
and  ignorant  of  that  event,  and  also  of  the  de- 
parture of  Alonzo  and  the  separation  of  the 
children. 

Alonzo  got  along  very  well  in  his  new  quar- 
ters at  the  lighthouse,  for  some  weeks.  The 
children  were  about  his  own  age,  and  they  were 


OF  AX  AMERICAN    WANDERER.  ^ 

all  apparently  on  a  footing  of  perfect  equality 
eating,  sleeping  and  playing  marbles  together, 
and  sharing  their  childish  pleasures  and  sorrows 
in  common.  Alonzo  loved  his  little  playmates, 
and  their  father,  the  pilot,  but  for  some  reason 
or  other,  did  not  become  attracted  towards  Mrs. 
Kennedy,  the  light-keeper's  wife,  nor  did  the 
lady  develop  any  special  love  for  the  boy.  This 
led  to  a  sense  of  discomfort  on  the  part  of. 
Alonzo,  and  with  a  constant  desire  to  join  his 
relatives  in  New  York,  united  to  a  rather  restless 
disposition,  even  at  that  age,  he  was  not  long 
in  determining  to  leave  the  lighthouse,  and  all 
connected  with  it.  He  recollected  the  kind 
young  officer,  Barbour;  knew  he  was  at  Ft. 
Stansberry,  and  determined  to  find  him,  tell 
his  story,  and  look  to  chance  for  the  rest." 

With  wonderful  foresight  and  prudence  for  a 
boy  of  that  age,  young  Alonzo  began  to  collect 
a  supply  of  food  for  the  journey,  and  determined 
to  fill  his  marble-bag  with  bread  and  other  eat- 
ables, saving  from  day  to  day  as  much  as  pos- 
sible from  the  meals  given  to  the  children.  He 
had  confided  to  a  negro  boy  Ben,  who  lived  at 
the  lighthouse,  his  intention  to  leave,  and  of 


16          THE  LSF£,   TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

the  manner  in  which  he  proposed  to  get  to- 
gether a  supply  of  food.  Ben  was  of  great 
assistance  to  him  in  getting  food,  but  the  pro- 
cess was  slow,  and  the  quantity  of  biscuit  which 
he  managed  to  hide,  from  day  to  day,  in  his 
little  marble-bag  was  small.  Finally,  without 
notice  to  any  one,  not  even  to  his  friend  Ben, 
the  negro,  as  the  first  ray  of  dawn  crept  o'er  the 
waters  of  the  gulf,  Alonzo  arose  from  the  little 
bed  upon  which  he  had  tossed  restlessly  all 
night,  dressed  hurriedly,  and  was  gone.  It  is 
hardly  probable,  as  the  cool  morning  air  struck 
fresh  on  the  fevered  brow  of  the  adventurous 
lad,  that  he  realized  the  fact  that  he  was  starting 
on  a  career  of  travel  and  adventure  that  was 
not  to  cease  for  half  a  century,  nor  until  he  had 
traversed  half  the  earth's  surface. 

Not  a  human  being  was  in  sight  or  stirring, 
when  he  cautiously  stole  from  the  light-keeper's 
house  that  morning.  Barefooted,  clad  in  a 
stout  pair  of  trousers,  and  a  hickory  shirt,  with 
an  old  straw  hat  on  his  head,  and  his  little 
marble-bag  full  of  biscuit  in  his  little  fist,  the 
young  wanderer  set  boldly  out.  Day  had  but 
fairly  dawned  when  the  old  trail  had  carried  the 


SETTING    OFT    IN     MKE — LEAVING     ST.     MAKK's     LIGHTIIWSK. 


OF  AN  A  ME  RICA  N  IV A  NDERER.  x  7 

boy  to  East  River,  which  he  was  forced  to  cross 
on  a  locr.  This  was  his  Rubicon.  Here  for 

O 

the  first  and  for  the  last  time  Alonzo's  heart 
smote  him,  as  he  realized  the  importance  of  his 
act.  He  thought  for  a  moment  regretfully 
upon  the  step  he  had  taken,  of  the  friends  he 
had  left  behind.  An  instant,  and  he  was  half 
way  across  the  river.  It  was  filled  with  leaping 
and  frisking  mullet,  and  Alonzo  paused  moment, 
arily  to  watch  them  disporting  themselves. 
The  dangerous  looking  log  bore  the  boy  safely 
across  East  River,  and  he  soon  reached  Port 
Leon,  and  the  graveyard  where  rested  the  re- 
mains of  his  parents  and  sister.  Here,  just  as 
the  sun  had  fairly  broke  thro'  mist  and  fog,  and 
gilding  the  beach  and  waters,  with  uncovered 
head  and  choking  with  sobs,  Alonzo  bid  a  last 
long  farewell  to  their  graves.  He  never  saw 
them  again.  Not  a  vestige  of  that  old  grave- 
yard remained  when  in  after  years  he  fondly 
sought  the  last  resting  places  of  these  loved 
ones. 

Our  hero  was  in  constant  dread  of  pursuit 
and  recapture  from  the  time  of  his  start,  both 
from  the  light-keeper  and  from  Densmore, 


!8         THE  LIFE,  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

through  whose  neighborhood  he  was  now  pass- 
ing. After  leaving  Port  Leon  and  St.  Marks 
safely  behind,  however,  he  sat  down  upon  the 
roadside,  and  feeling  hungry,  was  proceeding  to 
make  the  first  attack  upon  his  little  store  of  bis- 
cuit, when  he  was  accosted  by  an  old  darkey,  to 
.whom  he  confided  the  facts  of  his  situation,  and 
his  story  in  full.  The  darkey  kindly  volunteered 
not  only  to  put  him  on  the  right  road,  which 
the  lad  had  already  lost  once  or  twice,  but  to 
accompany  him  all  the  way  to  the  Fort. 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER. 


CHAPTER  II. 

The  Arrival  at  Fort  Stansberry — Densmore's  writ — The 
sutler-shop — Little  Elizabeth — The  Meeting — Rides 
and  walks  about  the  Fort — Alonzo  attempts  to  steal  his 
sister — Treating  with  the  Seminoles  at  Cedar  Keys — 


UNDER  the  guidance  of  his  faithful  negro  friend, 
the  journey  to  Fort  Stansberry  was  easily  and 
safely  accomplished  by  Alonzo,  and  without 
events  worthy  of  mention.  Information  of  his 
arrival  was  conveyed  to  the  officer  on  duty,  and 
an  orderly  on  horseback  sent  by  Lieut.  Barbour 
to  receive  him.  Lieut.  Barbour's  surprise,  as 
may  be  imagined,  was  most  profound  at  the 
sight  of  Alonzo,  whom  he  had  last  seen  in  a 
happy  home  at  Port  Leon.  A  warm  welcome 
was  extended  him,  and  the  strange  story  of 
his  eventful  career  subsequent  to  the  death  of 


so         THE  LIFE,  l^RAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

his  parents,  eagerly  listened  to.  The  kind  offi- 
cer, who  was  in  total  ignorance  of  the  fate  of  the 
DeMilts,  was  moved  by  this  pitiful  tale  of  adven- 
ture and  suffering  in  one  so  young,  treated  him 
with  great  kindness,  and  promised  to  convey  him 
North  at  the  earliest  opportunity.  This,  how- 
ever, in  those  early  times  of  bad  roads,  and  primi- 
tive conveyances,  was  a  task  of  no  small  uncer. 
tainty,  and  our  hero  was  requested,  in  the  mean- 
time, to  make  the  best  of  their  limited  accommo- 
dations at  the  Fort,  and  await,  with  his  best 
patience,  the  time  for  the  removal  north. 

Densmore,  who  had  first  taken  charge  of  our 
hero,  and  who  was  since  ascertained  to  be  a 
rather  doubtful  character,  had,  by  some  unac- 
countable means,  become  informed  of  our  hero's 
whereabouts,  hereupon  sent  a  writ  to  the  Fort 
demanding  Alonzo  peremptorily.  Lieut.  Bar- 
bour  declined  to  honor  the  officer  or  his 
papers ;  Densmore  was  threatened  with  a  term 
of  days  in  the  guardhouse,  and  warned,  in  no 
uncertain  manner,  to  disappear  permanently. 
This  was  done. 

The  sojourn  at  Stansberry  was  prolonged  for 
some  three  or  four  months.     Time  hung,  natu- 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  2 1 

rally,  rather  heavily  on  the  hands  of  a  lad  of  the 
active  disposition  of  our  hero,  and  was  varied  by 
rides  and  walks  about  the  grounds  and  parades 
of  the  encampment.  On  these  trips  he  was  ac- 
companied always  by  an  orderly  at  Lieut.  Bar- 
bour's  direction,  and  never  allowed  to  stray  out- 
side the  picket-guard  save  under  the  careful 
surveillance  of  an  orderly  or  other  officer,  for 
fear  of  Densmore,  whose  henchmen  were 
supposed  to  be  lurking  about,  in  hopes  of  seizing 
the  lad,  now  in  the  hands  of  kind  protectors. 

On  the  occasion  of  one  of  the  very  first  of 
these  jaunts,  and  while  riding  with  an  orderly 
about  the  Fort,  the  couple  had  stopped  at  a 
small  huckster's  or  sutler's  shop  where  pie, 
cakes,  and  other  edibles  were  furnished  and 
sold  the  soldiers.  This  establishment  was  kept 
by  a  wrinkled  old  French  dame,  Mother  Ran- 
dall by  name,  a  rather  mysterious  personage, 
who  was  held  in  a  sort  of  awe  by  the  troops 
from  her  stern  visage  and  the  persistency  with 
which  she  enforced  her  claims  for  pecuniary 
arrearages,  granted,  in  the  manner  of  those 
establishments,  until  the  next  pay  day. 

Our  hero  and  his  protector,  the    officer,  had 


22         THE  LIFE,  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

dismounted,  and  entered  the  Rabbe  shop,  and 
were  making  some  trifling  purchases  of  refresh- 
ments, and  partaking,  thereof,  when  the  boyish 
attention  of  Alonzo  was  irresistibly  attracted 
towards  a  child  who  was  flitting  about  the 
shop  —  a  bright-eyed,  blue-eyed,  flaxen-haired 
waif,  who  seemed  no  bigger  than  your  thumb, 
but  on  whom  our  hero's  eyes  were  rested  with 
the  greatest  emotion.  Over  six  months' — and  a 
six  months  replete  with  stirring  events — had 
elapsed  since  he  had  seen  his  sister.  An  instant 
and  the  recognition  was  complete  and  mutual,  and 
the  orphans  were  sobbing  in  each  other's  arms. 
Bystanders,  some  of  whom  are  living  at  this 
day,  have  pronounced  this  one  of  the  most 
pathetic  and  interesting  scenes,  and  a  scene  the 
memory  of  which  will  not  lightly  depart  from 
them.  Elizabeth,  left  in  the  charge  of  Mrs. 
Spencer,  had,  on  the  approaching  marriage  of 
that  estimable  lady,  been  consigned  to  the  care 
of  the  lady  of  the  Rabbe  shop,  and  was  there 
waiting  on  the  customers  in  her  childlike  way, 
and  flitting  about  the  premises,  happy  as  the 
day  is  long. 

The  prolonged  stay  at  the  Fort  fatigued  our 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  2$ 

indomitable  young  adventurer,  and  plans  to 
depart  were  revolved  daily  in  his  mind.  But 
his  sister  ?  He  knew,  naturally,  that  the  matron 
of  the  sutler  establishment  would  not  give  her 
up,  and  knew  also  that  the  consent  of  Lieut. 
Barbour  to  any  wild  goose-chase  of  this  nature 
would  be  absolutely  impossible  to  procure 
Nothing  dismayed,  he  plots  to  seize  and  steal 
the  little  Elizabeth,  and  decamp.  He  was 
permitted  on  each  Sunday  to  pay  a  visit  to  her, 
and  after  perfecting,  as-  he  thought,  the  plans 
for  this  daring  juvenile  attempt  at  kidnapping, 
he  stealthily  visits  the  sutler-shop,  entices  the 
child  a  hundred  yards  or  so  distant,  boldly 
seizes  her  in  his  arms,  and  attempts  to  leave 
the  Fort  with  her. 

This  procedure  had  not  escaped  the  sharp 
eyes  of  Mother  Randall ;  her  outcries  speedily 
summoned  assistance ;  the  girl  and  boy  are 
recaptured,  and  brought  back  crestfallen  and 
disgraced.  At  this  juncture  of  affairs  events 
called  Mother  Randall  far  away  from  the  Fort. 
She  took  Elizabeth  with  her ;  the  orphans  were 
parted  again,  and  this  time  to  remain  separated 
for  twenty-nine  years. 


24         THE  L/F£,  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

Not  long  after  this,  the  Third  Regiment  was 
ordered  to  Cedar  Keys,  Fla.,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
famed  Suwannee  River.  Here  Gen.  Worth  was 
met,  with  additional  troops  from  Tampa  ;  and  a 
treaty  with  Tiger-tail,  the  Seminole,  was  framed, 
after  protracted  negotiations  with  the  painted 
savages.  And  here,  also,  lashed  to  a  palmetto 
tree,  alongside  of  Gen.  Worth,  was  our  hero, 
who  bore  the  brunt  of  a  terrible  hurricane, 
which  devastated  the  surrounding  territory, 
and  swept  away  the  commissariat  stores.  Some 
weeks  were  agreeably  spent  by  young  Alonzo, 
in  sports  with  the  young  Seminoles,  sharing 
their  games,  hunting,  shooting  birds  with  blow- 
guns,  etc.,  and  attracting  the  friendship  and 
good-will  of  Gen.  Worth,  whose  pet  and  pro- 
tege he  became. 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER. 


CHAPTER  III. 

Ordered  to  Apalachicola — Fort  Gadsden — Last  Treaty 
with  Indians  in  Florida — Departure  for  New  Orleans — • 
Up  the  Mississippi  River  to  St.  Louis — Life  at  Jeffer- 
son Barracks — The  Great  American  Samson — Bar- 
hour's  Marriage — Outbreak  of  Mexican  War — Farmer 
Saugrain — Life  on  the  Farm — The  California  Gold 
Fever. 

AT  this  juncture  in  our  story,  behold  Alonzo, 
a  sturdy  boy  of  about  twelve  summers,  who  has 
already  undergone  privations,  bereavements  and 
adventures  unparalleled,  in  the  life  of  one  so 
young,  and  the  narration  of  which  sounds  more 
like  the  dream  of  a  novelist  than  the  recital  of 
sober  truth.  His  experiences,  as  such  experi-' 
ences  generally  do,  exerted  a  beneficial  effect  on 
the  youth.  Of  accommodating  and  pleasant 
manners,  yet  with  a  bright  and  indomitable  en- 
ergy and  activity,  he  was  already  a  great  favor- 
ite with  "his  associates,  the  officers  and  soldiers 


26         THE  LIFE,  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

who  formed  with  him  a  friendship  which  was 
never  broken. 

A  treaty  with  Tiger-tail  had  been  framed  at 
Cedar  Keys,  and,  pending  the  negotiations 
for  its  ratification,  the  Third  Regiment  was 
ordered  to  Apalachicola,  then  a  thriving  mer- 
cantile town,  which  well  held  its  own  in  rivalry 
with  other  Gulf  Ports.  From  Apalachicola  the 
command  proceeded  to  Fort  Gadsden,  situate  on 
the  east  bank  of  the  Apalachicola  River  and 
some  eighteen  or  twenty  miles  above  the  city  of 
that  name.  At  this  post  was  framed  and  rati- 
fied the  last  treaty  made  with  the  Indians  of 
Florida,  in  the  year  '42.  After  the  accomplish- 
ment of  this  important  task,  and  a  stay  of 
three  or  four  months  in  Fort  Gadsden,  the  regi- 
ment embarked  in  sailing-vessels  for  New 
Orleans. 

It  was  while  on  a  hunting  excursion  in  the 
woods  adjacent  to  Fort  Gadsden  that  our  hero 
had  the  good  fortune  to  kill,  partly  by  good 
luck  and  partly  by  his  own  nerve,  his  first  deer, 
a  fine  animal.  The  circumstances  of  this  suc- 
cessful hunt  at  once  gave  our  hero  an  enviable 
status  as  one  skilled  in  manly  sports.  It  seems 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  27 

that  on  one  of  the  many  hunting  expeditions 
organized  by  the  officers  and  soldiers  of  the 
garrison,  our  hero  had  begged,  and  was  granted, 
permission  to  participate.  He  was  stationed, 
on  account  of  his  youth  and  inexperience,  at  a 
tree  near  which  it  was  never  once  dreamed 
the  deer  would  pass.  On  the  contrary,  just 
after  the  game  was  started,  he  made  directly  to- 
wards the  post  of  our  hero.  Bursting  with 
excitement  he  calmed  his  nerves  as  best  he 
could,  took  a  quick  aim,  and  fired.  The  deer 
fell  stone  dead  in  its  tracks.  Alonzo  was  the 
talk  of  the  camp  for  some  time. 

Three  or  four  days  were  occupied  on  the 
passage  to  New  Orleans,  at  the  expiration  of 
which  time  the  expedition  landed  at  Balize,  at 
the  mouth  of  Pass  L'Outre,  and  waited  for  the 
steam -tug  to  tow  them  up  to  the  city.  This 
was  done  and  the  little  fleet  rode  at  anchor  in 
the  middle  of  the  river  opposite  Canal  Street. 

Some  time  was  spent  in  New  Orleans,  and 
the  impressions  of  the  young  Alonzo  at  his  first 
sight  of  the  beautiful  Creole  capital  were  novel 
and  delightful.  With  its  wonderful  old  churches, 
its  parks,  esplanades,  and  theatres,  its  antique 


28         THE  LIFE,  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

French  Quarter  and  picturesque  French  market, 
and  a  thousand  and  one  features  of  novelty  and 
beauty,  New  Orleans  is  the  most  interesting  city 
perhaps  on  the  American  continent.  The  day  or 
two  spent  there  were  enjoyed  intensely  by  our 
hero,  and  with  amusement  and  profit  combined. 
Passage  was  taken  by  the  command  on  the 
steamer  Ben  Franklin  up  the  river  to  St.  Louis. 
After  the  usual  incidents  of  travel  on  the  won- 
derful Mississippi  the  1,200  miles  were  safely 
traversed,  and  St.  Louis  and  Jefferson  Barracks 
reached.  Here,  for  the  first  time  in  his  short 
life,  Alonzo  finds  what  may  be  termed  a  home, 
and  here  he  passes  a  full  year  and  more  in  quiet 
or  in  something  considerably  more  like  quiet 
than  he  has  hitherto  enjoyed.  Lieut.  Barbour 
assumes  the  responsible  position  of  duly  quali- 
fied guardian  of  the  lad ;  and  the  foundation  of 
his  education  is  laid,  for  entrance  at  West  Point, 
in  study  and  instruction  by  the  kind  lieutenant 
and  others.  Of  his  career  at  this  place  I  shall 
speak  briefly.  Swimming  in  summer,  skating  in 
winter,  and  equestrian  exercises  at  all  seasons, 
filled  in  the'daily  routine  of  his  life  at  the  Bar- 
racks. A  celebrated  athlete  calling  himself  Auto- 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  39 

mata,  the  American  Samson,  coming  along,  gave 
a  series  of  exhibitions  at  the  Barracks,  and  here 
Alonzo  became  familiar  with  a  number  of  feats 
of  physical  strength  which  were  afterwards  of 
great  value  to  him.  The  athlete  took  a  liking  to 
the  lad  for  his  agility  and  daring,  and  proposed 
on  leaving  that  Alonzo  should  accompany  him. 
That  juvenile  weakness  which  at  some  time  in 
every  boy's  life  fascinates  him  with  the  circus, 
and  makes  him  long  to  adopt  it  as  a  profession, 
induced  our  hero  to  accept  the  athlete's  propo- 
sition. He  left  the  barracks  surreptitiously 
one  night  and  followed  Automata  to  Veetbush, 
a  French  village  some  miles  distant.  Search 
was  at  once  instituted  by  the  officers,  and  our 
hero  brought  back,  punished,  and  carefully  ad- 
monished against  any  like  attempts  in  future. 

At  this  point  Barbour  who  had  been  engaged 
for  some  time  to  a  young  lady,  Miss  Hopkins  of 
Kentucky,  joined  her  at  Henderson,  Ky., 
was  married,  and  returned  to  the  barracks  with 
his  bride.  Alonzo  was  given  the  choice  of  re- 
maining at  the  barracks  with  Lieut,  and  Mrs. 
Barbour  or  of  s^oin^  to  his  relatives  in  New  York. 

o         o 

He  chose  the  former  alternative,  and  remained 


3o         THE  LIFE.  TRAVELS  AATD  ADVENTURES 

with  them  until  the  outbreak  of  the  Mexican 
war.  Lieut.  Barbour  was  immediately  ordered 
to  the  front,  his  wife  preparing  to  return  to 
Kentucky,  until  the  war  ended.  It  was  impos- 
sible for  Alonzo  to  accompany  Barbour  to  Mexi- 
co nor  did  he  desire  to  follow  Mrs.  Barbour  to 
Kentucky. 

Tossed  to  and  fro  like  a  feather,  Alonzo  again 
becomes  the  sport  of  fortune.  A  kind-hearted 
Frenchman,  a  farmer  named  Saugrain  took 
charge  of  our  wanderer  until  Barbour's  return, 
as  his  son ;  and  on  the  appointed  day  his  wag- 
on conveyed  the  lad  to  the  farm  after  an  affect- 
ing farewell  to  Lieut.  Barbour  and  his  wife. 

Barbour  was  killed  a  few  months  afterwards, 
at  the  battle  of  Monterey,  Mexico. 

Our  hero's  life  for  four  years,  at  the  farm  of 
Mr.  Saugrain,was  varied  by  nothing  of  particular 
interest.  He  toiled  faithfully  in  summer,  and 
acquired  a  thorough  knowledge  of  farming  and 
horticulture,  and  attended  school  in  winter.  In- 
numerable escapades  of  more  or  less  seriousness, 
Christmas  frolics,  corn  huskings,  dances,  love- 
scrapes,  hunting,  fishing,  etc.,  are  recorded  in 
the  annals  of  those  years. 


OF  AN  AMERICAN-  WANDERER.  3I 

But  the  record  of  Alonzo's  childhood  experi- 
ences is  at  an  end,  and  now,  launched  on  the  cur- 
rent of  that  wonderful  tide  which  swept  like  a  tor- 
rent to  the  land  of  gold,  our  adventurer  begins  life, 
a  boy  gold-hunter,  seeking  fresh  adventures 
in  the  terrible  quest  for  fortune  among  alkali 
deserts,  Indians  and  desperadoes  from  every 
quarter  of  the  globe. 


32         THE  LIFE,  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 


CHAPTER  IV. 

The  Boy  Gold-Hunter  —  Organization  of  the  Company  — 
From  Kansas  City  to  the  Platte  River  —  Buffalo  —  Dan- 
gerous diving  en  route  to  the  New  Eldorado,  — 


had  Lived  pleasantly  in  the  home  of 
the  worthy  M.  Saugrain;  he  was  one  of  the 
family  to  all  intents  and  purposes,  had  adopted 
the  Catholic  religion,  which  was  the  religion  of 
the  farmer  and  his  forefathers,  and  might  have 
remained  there  until  this  day,  had  not  the 
terrible  gold  fever  penetrated  that  quiet  farm, 
as  it  penetrated  every  other  locality,  and  found 
inflammable  material,  as  it  never  failed  to  find. 
A  young  nephew  of  M.  Saugrain,  Clarke  Kenely 
by  name,  was  one  of  the  first  to  be  seized  with 
the  gold  excitement.  He  proposed  an  immedi- 
ate start,  and  would  have  it  that  Alonzo  ac- 
company him.  Our  hero,  nothing  loth,  asked 
and  obtained  the  consent  of  his  guardian,  and 


OF  AN  AMERICAN   WANDERER.  33 

was  soon  ready   and   equipped   with  guns,  re- 
volvers, bowie  knives,  blankets  and  provisions. 

Capt.  Jno.  Radford,  ablood  relative  of  Clarke, 
of  the  Louis  and  Clarke  expedition  of  1803-4, 
had  organized  a  company  of  gold-hunters  in 
St.  Louis,  for  an  immediate  start.  This  com- 
pany was  divided  into  messes  of  four ;  their 
rendezvous  was  at  Kansas  City,  where  a  com- 
plete and  formal  organization  was  to  be  effected. 

DeMilt,  who  cherished  the  warmest  possible 
feelings  towards  Farmer  Saugrain  and  his  ex- 
cellent wife,  regarding  them  more  in  the  light 
of  parents  than  anything  else,  felt  the  most 
sincere  regret  at  leaving  their  household,  which 
had  been  his  home  for  so  many  long  and  happy 
days.  The  wagon  and  horses,  which  were  to 
carry  him  and  his  baggage  from  the  farm  to 
St.  Louis,  drove  up  to  the  door,  however,  one 
bright  spring  morning.  All  was  in  readiness  for 
the  start,  and  bidding  his  old  friends  a  tearful 
and  affectionate  farewell,  our  hero  with  a  stout 
heart  sets  forth. 

Arriving  at  St.  Louis  he  awaited,  at  his 
hotel  on  Third  street,  the  departure  of  the 
Steamer  for  Independence. 


34         THE  LIFE,   TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

The  departure  from  St.  Louis  took  place 
about  the  end  of  May,  '49.  The  original 
company  consisted  of  about  sixty  men,  which 
number  was  afterwards  increased  to  seventy- 
five  or  upwards.  Radford  was  leader  and  cap- 
tain of  the  expedition,  his  mess  was  composed 
of  Radford,  Phil  Choteau,  (of  the  famous  St. 
Louis  family  of  Choteaus)  McKenzie,  who 
generally  drove  the  team ;  and  Black  Tom  the 
cook.  DeMilt's  mess  was  composed  of  Clarke 
Kenely,  Tom  Broadwater,  our  hero,  and  Black 
Cupid,  the  cook  of  the  mess  and  slave  of  Clarke 
Kenely.  Messrs  Snider,  and  Hunt  and  others 
from  the  lead  mines  of  Galena,  111.,  were  of  the 
company ;  a  Mr.  Whitney  and  daughter,  and 
two  blacksmiths  named  Hoagland.  The 
teams  connected  with  the  train  were  about 
twenty  or  twenty-five  in  number. 

The  expedition  proceeded  to  Kansas  City 
and  remained  there  one  day.  The  succeeding 
morning  a  start  was  made,  and  near  the  big 
Blue  River,  some  five  or  six  miles  out,  a  halt 
was  ordered,  all  the  preliminaries  arranged, 
the  organization  effected,  and  the  start  made 
in  earnest. 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  35 

The  time  elapsing  between  this  start  and 
their  arrival  at  Fort  Laramie  was  about  one 
month,  and  the  trip  made  with  the  usual  con- 
comitants of  wagon -travel  in  the  west  at  that 
time.  Breaking  down  and  miring  of  wagons 
and  teams,  sickness  of  men,  bad  roads,  etc.,  gave 
occasion  for  the  exercise  of  the  ingenuity  and 
patience  of  the  train  incessantly,  and  the  sight 
of  the  low  and  sandy  valley  of  the  Platte  or 
Nebraska  River  was  gladly  welcomed.  This 
stream  was  reached  at  the  close  of  a  hot  day  in 
the  middle  of  June,  and  it  was  proposed  to 
bathe.  Here  occurred  an  incident  which 
briefly  and  very  pointedly  describes  the  Platte 
perhaps  better  than  a  volume  could.  A 
projecting  limb  was  utilized  by  the  men  to 
dive  from,  and  the  sport  kept  up  until  late  in 
the  evening,  when  they  retired  to  rest.  Just  at 
daybreak  the  next  morning,  one  of  the  drivers 
arose,  and,  looking  towards  the  river,  caught 
sight  of  the  projecting  limb  from  whence  they 
had  dived  the  evening  before.  It  occurred  to 
him  that  a  plunge  in  the  cool  stream  would 
be  a  splendid  thing  to  start  the  day  with,  and 
arouse  him  thoroughly  from  his  nap ;  and  he 


36         THE  LIFE,   TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

proceeded  to  the  bank,  taking  off  as  he  went, 
the  garments  that  he  had  slept  in.  Mount- 
ing the  limb,  he  balanced  himself  for  the 
spring.  The  surface  of  the  water  and  the 
stream  generally  appeared  precisely  as  it  did 
the  night  before,  when  a  convenient  depth  of 
water  was  had  for  deep  diving.  He  raised  his 
arms,  rose  high  in  the  air,  and  with  a  graceful 
curve  disappeared.  Some  of  the  boys,  who 
were  quietly  watching  him  from  the  camp,  heard 
a  smothered  yell  as  he  struck  the  water,  and  ran 
to  see  him.  The  lower  extremities  of  the  un- 
lucky diver,  were  seen  wildly  beating  the  air 
and  water,  and  he  seemed  held  down  head  fore- 
most by  some  invisible  power.  They  ran  to 
his  assistance  and  found  him  embedded  head 
and  shoulders  in  quicksands,  with  scarcely  any^ 
thing  more  than  his  naked  legs  protruding 
above  the  surface.  With  a  force  as  if  he  had 
been  shot  from  a  catapult,  he  had  dived  into  less 
than  two  feet  of  water.  The  treacherous  sands 
had  shifted  the  night  before  from  above  and 
had  been  deposited  ten  or  twelve  feet  deep 
directly  underneath  their  diving-place.  The 
Platte  river  is  mighty  uncertain.  The  unfor- 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  ,* 

tunate  man  was  pried  out  with  poles ;  luckily 
escaping  without  a  broken  neck,  and  but  with 
few  bruises. 

In  the  valley  of  the  Platte  immense  herds  of 
buffalo  were  seen.  No  one  that  has  failed  to 
see  one  of  these  now  fast  disappearing  ani- 
mals can  form  anything  like  an  adequate  idea 
of  the  extent  and  numbers  of  a  full  herd  of  these 
noble  animals.  Boundless  as  the  ocean,  far  as 
the  eye  can  reach,  a  limitless  mass  of  dark,  mov- 
ing, throbbing  life.  The  Union  Pacific  Railroad 
has  well  swept  them  from  their  grazing  grounds 
in  the  valley  of  the  Platte  ;  and  this  and  other 
roads  threaten  to  exterminate  this  king  of  the 
plains  and  Rockies. 


38         THE  LIFE,  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 


CHAPTER  V. 

The  Fight  with  Black  Cupid  on  the  Sweetwater— The 
cooks  of  '49 — South  Pass  and  the  4th  of  July — Difficult 
Passage  of  Green  River — The  St.  Mary's  River  and 
Sink  of  the  Humboldt — A  Stampede — Difficulty  in  Camp 
— Truckee  Desert  and  River. 

JUST  after  leaving  Laramie,  the  party  was 
joined  by  Andrew  Brady  and  a  lad  named 
Edmonsen.  These  men  had  started  across  the 
plains  from  another  part,  and  in  another  train. 
Their  party,  however,  had  become  disorganized 
and  discontented,  and  on  meeting  the  train 
commanded  by  Radford,  the  two  men  proposed 
to  become  members  of  it  This  was  agreed  to, 
and  they  were  allotted  to  the  mess  of  which 
DeMilt  was  a  member — the  culinary  depart- 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  39 

ment  of  which  was  presided  over  by  Black 
Cupid — a  slave. 

The  name  in  this  instance  was  certainly 
a  mistaken  appellation.  Born  in  Missouri, 
Cupid  was  owned  by  Clark  Kenely;  he  was 
jet  black,  kinky  haired,  thick  lipped,  broad 
nostrilled.  The  black  cook  resembled  any- 
thing but  the  God  of  Love. 

No  man,  perhaps,  ever  cooked  across  the  plains 
for  an  immigrant  train,  or  for  any  part  thereof, 
without  permanently  ruining  his  disposition  be- 
fore the  end  of  the  trip — however  good  that  dis- 
position may  have  been  at  the  start.  The  privi- 
lege of  growling  at  the  cook,  in  season  and  out  of 
season,  was  and  is  especially  cherished  by  emi- 
grants on  the  plains  and  elsewhere.  Hot, 
tired,  dusty,  wearied  to  death  with  whacking 
mules  and  lifting  wagons  out  of  the  mire,  the 
only  solace  left  the  *49-er,  was  the  sweet  and  sa- 
cred privilege  of  "  cussing"  and  growling  at  the 
helpless  innocent  who  prepared  his  food. 
Shades  of  the  cooks  of  '49  ! — bear  witness  to  the 
truth  of  this ! 

Cupid,  no  doubt,  came  in  for  his  share  of 
contumely.  The  poor  devil's  disposition — never, 


4o         THE  LIFE,   TRA  VELS  AND  AD  VENTURES 

perhaps,  one  of  the  best — was  no  doubt  seri- 
ously strained  by  the  time  the  caravan  hove  in 
sight  of  Laramie.  At  any  rate,  there  were  two 
more  stomachs  in  the  mess  to  be  filled,  two 
more  mouths  to  provide  for,  and  to  abuse  the 
cook.  This  addition  was  received  by  Cupid  with 
intense  disgust.  Nor  was  he  in  any  way  careful 
to  conceal  his  dissatisfaction.  He  growled, 
grumbled,  put  up  "  jobs  "  on  Joe  Edmonson, 
and  instituted  a  series  of  petty  persecutions 
against  that  individual  that  would  probably  be 
1  best  described  by  the  term,  "hazing." 

Young  DeMilt,  happening  to  be  a  witness  of 
a  flagrant  instance  of  this  persecution,  one  day 
just  as  "  Cupid  "  was  preparing  dinner,  he  under- 
took to  reprove  him.  Cupid,  naturally  feeling 
out  of  sorts  (he  was  cooking  dinner)  "  talked 
back."  One  word  brought  on  other  words; 
one  or  two  blows,  and  a  "  difficulty  "  took  place, 
thereabouts,  which  was  well  sustained  by  both 
our  hero  and  his  sable  antagonist.  A  pick- 
handle,  a  tent-pin,  fists,  finger-nails,  a  skillet- 
of  hot  fat  and  other  persuasives  were  re- 
sorted to  with  varying  success.  They  clinched 
wrestled,  squeezed,  and  walloped  one  another 


CHASTISING    THE    "BLACK    CUPID." 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  41 

for  sc;me  minutes,  and  our  hero  had  just  got  the 
cook  down,  and  was  about  to  settle  him  with  a 
club  when,Phil  Chouteau,  having  enjoyed  it  long 
enough,  interfered  and  stopped  the  fight — but 
not  in  time  to  save  the  dinner,  that  had  long 
ago  been  kicked  to  the  four  winds  or  trampled 
into  the  dirt.  Clark  Kenely's  mess  went  dinner- 
less  that  day.  The  difficulty  was  amicably  ad- 
justed ;  Cupid  and  DeMilt  were  fast  friends, 
during  the  whole  trip  thereafter.  No  harm  was 
done,  beyond  the  loosening  up  of  several  square 
inches  of  both  white  and  black  skin. 

Journeying  along  the  valley  of  the  Platte,  the 
train  passed  successively  the  court-house  and 
chimney  rocks  and  other  natural  curiosities  of 
great  interest.  Court-house  Rock  which  resem- 
bles a  gigantic  court-house,  and  nothing  else,  is 
in  plain  sight  of  the  trail,  but  fifteen  or  twenty 
miles  distant.  The  effect  of  that  optical  illus- 
sion — so  familiar  to  all  plainsmen — is  such  as 
to  cause  this  Rock,  and  other  objects,  to  appear 
close  at  hand.  Some  amusement  was  created 
by  parties  attempting  to  start  off  for  a  short 
walk  or  ride,  as  they  thought,  to  get  a  close 
view  of  the  wonderful  sight.  With  its  windows 


42         THE  LSFE,  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

doors,  chimneys,  columns,  etc.,  the  similarity 
is  perfect,  and  plentifully  warrants  even  a  tired 
plainsman  to  try  to  view  it  from  a  closer  stand- 
point. Parties,  starting  at  three  or  four  o'clock, 
generally  travelled  till  dark,  and  then  returned, 
with  the  court-house  rock  apparently  just  as  far 
distant  as  at  the  start.  This  illusion  has  never 
been  satisfactorily  explained,  although  innumer- 
able theories  have  been  advanced  concerning 
it.  An  unusual  rarity  of  the  atmosphere 
is  generally  accepted  as  the  cause  of  this  phe- 
nomenon, but  is  rejected  by  some  on  what 
would  appear  to  be  perfectly  reasonable 
grounds. 

South  Pass  was  reached  on  the  4th  of  July, 
1849.  This  was  passed  without  difficulty,  and 
the  Rockies  were  left  behind  our  adventurers. 
The  mountain  streams  after  this  all  flo\ved 
westward.  We  camped  on  the  summit  that 
night. 

Soon  after  successfully  crossing  the  Rockies 
the  territory  occupied  by  the  Snake  Indians  was 
entered.    These  Indians,  as  were  all  others  en- 
countered by  the  train,were  peaceable,  and  moles- 
ted no  one.  DeMilt  traded  two  red  blankets  here 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  43 

for  a  small  Snake  horse,  on  whose  back  he  suc- 
cessfully breasted  the  dangerous  current  of 
Green  River,  and  led  the  stock  across. 

Green  River  is  really  the  upper  Colorado, 
but  takes  its  name  from  the  deep  green  color 
of  its  waters.  It  has  a  current  of  great  veloc- 
ity, is  a  dangerous  stream,  and  proved  a  terri- 
ble barrier  to  people  crossing  the  plains  to 
Calitornia.  On  account,  perhaps,  of  the  great 
mass  of  snow  which  falls  into  and  melts  in  the 
current,  the  temperature  of  the  water  is  nearly 
as  low  as  the  freezing-point. 

On  arriving  at  the  Green  River  crossing 
there  were  found  congregated  a  number  of 

o      o 

trains  and  a  vast  quantity  of  stock  unable  to 
make  the  passage.  Several  men  and  horses 
had  been  drowned  just  previous  to  the  arrival 
of  Radford's  train,  and  the  men  seemed  non- 
plussed. In  order  to  induce  the  animals  to 
cross  the  stream,  it  was  necessary  that  some 
man,  mounted  on  a  lead  animal,  should  first 
enter  the  river — the  animals  in  this  case  follow- 
ing blindly,  and  as  a  rule  making  the  passage 
safely.  On  the  arrival  of  Radford's  train,  vol- 
unteers were  called  for  to  attempt  the  hazard- 


44         THE  LIFE,  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

cms  crossing ;  DeMilt  and  his  Snake  horse  were 
in  instant  readiness.  Fortifying  himself  with  a 
ration  of  fiery  brandy  he  boldly  breasted  the 
current.  Without  recounting  his  narrow  escapes 
from  the  rapid  current  and  the  intense  cold,  suf- 
fice it  to  say,  that  he  made  the  crossing  in  safety, 
the  animals  following  him.  The  rest  of  the 
caravan  was  soon  safely  over. 

One  hundred  and  fifty  weary  miles  were  yet 
to  be  travelled  to  reach  the  St.  Mary's  River, 
which  was  accomplished,  however,  without  any 
incident  of  more  than  ordinary  importance. 
Reaching  the  St.  Mary's,  the  trail  followed  the 
course  of  the  river,  for  three  hundred  miles. 
Farther  down,  the  river  is  known  as  the  Hum- 
boldt,  and  soon  loses  itself  in  the  vast  desert, 
known  as  the  Sink  of  the  Humboldt.  Near 
the  Sink  of  the  Humboldt  the  stock  was  stam- 
peded by  prowling  Indians,  and  fled  in  wild 
terror  for  miles  before  being  recaptured,  the 
oldest  and  apparently  the  worst  used  up 
animals  of  the  train  leading  the  van  with  tre- 

O 

mendous  strides  in  this  wild  race.  De- 
Milt  and  McKenzie  were  guarding  the 
stock  at  the  time  of  the  stampede,  and 


OF  AN  AMERICAN   WANDERER.  45 

Bob  Hunt,  who  had  proved  to  be  a  sort  of 
bullyragging  chap,  undertook  to  administer  a 
rebuke  to  these  men  for  what  he  termed  their 
negligence  in  allowing  the  stock  to  get  away, 
and  threatened  to  give  them  both  a  "  licking." 
He  did  give  McKenzie  a  box  on  the  ears 
and  seemed  to  get  along  very  well  in  his 
undertaking,  until  he  get  to  DeMilt.  Some  of 
the  men  told  him  he  would  get  hurt  if  he 
molested  DeMilt;  but  he  disregarded  these 
warnings,  and  made  a  stride  toward  the  young 
man  with  his  fist  doubled  up  for  a  fight. 
Quicker  than  I  can  tell  it,  he  was  looking  down 
the  barrel  of  a  loaded  and  cocked  rifle.  This 
forced  him  to  an  abrupt  halt,  and  he  soon  re- 
lented. He  did  not  whip  DeMilt  that  day,  nor 
any  other,  and  they  were  soon  good  friends 
again. 

Fifty-five  miles  of  desert  were  to  be  crossed 
to  reach  Truckee  River.  The  trip  across  lasted 
forty  hours.  The  talented  Mark  Twain,  who  has 
crossed  this  desert  more  than  once,  describes  it 
as  well  or  better,  perhaps,  than  any  one  who 
ever  saw  it  or  wrote  about  it.  "  Pushing  through 
sand  that  had  no  bottom  ;  toiling  all  day  long 


46         THE  LIFE,  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

by  the  wrecks  of  a  thousand  wagons ;  the 
skeletons  of  ten  thousand  oxen ;  by  wagon 
tires  enough  to  hoop  the  Washington  monu- 
ment to  the  top,  and  ox  chains  enough  to  girdle 
Long  Island;  by  human  graves,  with  our 
throats  parched  always,  with  thirst ;  lips  bleed- 
ing with  alkali  dust,  hungry,  perspiring,  and 
very,  very  weary — so  weary  that  when  we 
dropped  in  the  sand  every  fifty  yards  to  rest 
the  mules,  we  could  hardly  keep  from  going  to 
sleep." 

On  the  second  day  of  the  trip,  towards  even- 
ing, a  far  off  fringe  of  green  trees,  sticking  up 
over  the  bluffs  of  Truckee  River,  greeted  the 
eyes  of  the  toiling  trains.  This  river  was 
eventually  reached  after  great  suffering;  and, 
once  reached,  no  human  power  could  prevent 
the  animals,  and  men,  too,  for  that  matter,  from 
plunging  bodily  in  and  drinking  until  it  seemed 
all  must  burst.  Truckee  River  was  crossed 
twenty-seven  times  in  twenty-nine  miles,  but 
it  was  finally  left  behind  us. 

The  burning  springs  of  the  Truckee  desert 
were  objects  of  great  interest  to  the  party.  A 
ham  was  boiled  in  one  of  them  by  Bob  Hunt  in 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  47 

the  course  of  ten  minutes ;  eggs  were  cooked 
also.  The  feet  of  the  oxen  sometimes  penetra- 
ted through  the  surface,  and  came  in  contact 
with  the  hot  alkali  waters  beneath,  in  which  case 
their  hoofs  seem  to  rot  and  fall  off. 


48         THE  LIFE,  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 


CHAPTER   VI. 

The  Sierra  Nevadas — Hoisting  the  Wagons— Donner  Camp 
—The  Ill-fated  Party — The  Summit— The  Descent — 
Grass  Valley — The  First  Search  for  Gold — Sacramento 
— Breaking  up  of  the  Company — Mormon  Gulch. 

AFTER  Truckee  River  was  finally  lost  sight  of, 
some  twenty  or  twenty-five  miles  were  passed 
before  obstacles  of  a  serious  nature  impeded  the 
course  of.  the  train,  towards  the  summit.  Those 
steep  and  difficult  benches  of  the  foot  hills  of  the 
Sierras  were  surmounted  after  severe  toil 
in  hoisting  the  wagons.  Soon  after,  within 
twenty  miles  of  the  summit,  the  site  of  Don- 
ner Camp,  which  proved  the  burial  place  of  so 
many  unfortunate  beings,  was  reached. 

Many  thrilling  and  affecting  accounts  have 
been  written  concerning  the  disasters  that 
overtook  the  ill-fated  Donner  party  in  the 
winter  of  1846-47  ;  yet,  after  this  lapse  of  time,  a 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  49 

brief  recital  of  their  adventures  and  sufferings 
may  not  be  without  interest. 

The  Donner  party,  so  called  from  the  fact 
that  men  who  bore  that  name  were  the  leading 
spirits  of  the  party,  consisted  of  about  eighty 
immigrants,  including  men,  women,  and  children. 
The  bones  of  thirty-six  of  that  party  are  en- 
tombed beneath  the  eternal  snows  of  the  Sierras, 
while  the  forty-four  survivors  were  only  rescued 
after  the  most  intense  suffering,  from  cold  and 
starvation,  and  were  mere  skeletons  when 
snatched  from  the  jaws  of  death  by  the  relief 
parties,  who  perilled  everything  in  their  brave 
rescue  of  the  unfortunates. 

Contrary  to  the  advice  of  the  most  experienced 
men  of  that  section,  and  in  almost  total  ignor- 
ance of  the  climate,  the  party  had  decided  for 
themselves  to  attempt  the  passage  of  the  Sierras 
by  an  entirely  new  route.  On  their  arrival  at  a 
small  lake,  since  called  Donner  Lake,  and  some 
fifteen  miles  from  Lake  Tahoe,  they  had  erect- 
ed two  small  cabins,  when  two  Indians  and 
five  pack  mules  laden  with  provisions  arrived. 
These  had  been  sent  from  Sutter's  Fort  by 
Capt.  Sutter,  who,  it  would  seem,  had  been  in- 


e;o         THE  LIFE,  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

formed  of  the  danger  that  menaced  the  party. 
This  was  in  November,  '46.  Up  to  this  time 
there  had  been  several  comparatively  light  falls 
of  snow. 

It  was  proposed  by  some  of  the  party  to  im- 
mediately slaughter  all  the  animals,  including 
those  sent  by  Capt.  Sutter,  and  save  their  flesh 
for  food.  This,  while  it  was  really  the  only  sal- 
vation of  the  immigrants,  was  opposed  by  some 
at  the  time  and  was  the  subject  of  some  discus- 
sion pro  and  con.  Little  did  the  unfortunates 
realize  its  importance.  While  this  discussion  was 
pending,  a  terrible  storm  came  up,  and  snow  fell 
to  the  depth  of  six  feet  and  over  during  the 
night.  The  next  morning  naught  was  visi- 
ble but  a  wide  desert  of  snow  ;  not  an  animal  was 
to  be  seen.  They  had  fled  before  the  driving 
storm  and  perished  in  the  wastes  of  the  Sierras ; 
not  a  carcass  was  to  be  found.  A  realization  of 
the  extremity  of  their  situation  here  forced 
itself  upon  the  minds  of  the  party.  The  little 
supply  of  provisions  they  had  on  hand,  includ- 
ing those  sent  by  Capt.  Sutter,  could  not  last 
long.  It  was  thenceforth  a  struggle,  a  terrible 
struggle,  for  life. 


OP  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  5 1 

It  was  decided  to  send  a  party  across  the 
mountains  on  snow-shoes.  This  party  was  headed 
by  Eddy  and  Foster,  and  consisted  of  eight 
white  men,  two  Indians,  five  women,  and  a  boy 
twelve  years  old.  Supplied  with  one  suit  of 
clothes  each,  a  few  blankets,  an  axe,  a  rifle,  some 
ammunition,  and  a  small  amount  of  provisions, 
this  little  party  set  bravely  out.  It  is  beyond 
the  province  of  this  brief  sketch  to  set  forth  in 
detail  the  terrible  sufferings  of  the  little  band. 
How  they  found  little  or  no  game  on  the  sum- 
mit ;  how  they  encamped  on  the  surface  of  the 
snow;  how,  too  weak  and  exhausted  to  cut 
large  timber,  they  built  fires  of  small  sticks  and 
logs ;  how  these  burnt  through  and  their  fire 
and  all  sank,  deep  down,  into  the  snow ;  how, 
in  blinding  snows,  intense  cold,  suffering  the 
horrors  of  slow  death  by  starvation,  five  of 
this  party  perished  almost  immediately;  how 
one  of  the  men,  who  had  borne  the  day's 
travel  well,  suddenly  fell  down  by  the  fire 
where  he  was  warming  himself  and  died,  and 
how,  after  incredible  hardship,  two  of  the  remain- 
der reached  assistance,  just  at  death's  door. 
Relief  was  at  once  sent  out  to  rescue  the  rem- 


52         THE  LIFE,  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

nant  of  the  Eddy  party,  and  ten  men,  supplied 
with  all  that  was  necessary,  reached  the  camp, 
where  Foster  and  the  five  women  had  been  left. 
On  arriving  at  the  camp,  so  sad  was  the  sight  that 
the  relief  men,  for  some  moments,  were  so  af- 
fected, that  they  said  not  a  word,  but  only 
gazed  and  wept.  Hovering  over  their  small 
camp  fire,  the  poor  creatures  had  been  snowed 
on,  rained  on,  lacerated,  starved,  and  worn  down 
until  they  were  but  breathing  skeletons. 

The  Eddy  party  were  about  thirty  days  in 
making  the  trip.  Other  parties  afterward  set 
out  from  the  cabins  on  Donner  Lake,  and  made 
their  way  into  the  settlement,  after  fearful 
sufferings  and  the  loss  of  most  of  their  com- 
rades. Many  died  at  the  cabins  from  starvation. 
Taken  all  in  all,  the  story  of  the  terrible  fate  of 
the  ill-starred  Donner  party,  is  one  of  the 
saddest  tales  ever  told  of  human  suffering.  It 
stands  almost  without  a  parallel ;  certainly, 
without  a  parallel  in  the  annals  of  adventure  in 
the  Far-West. 


After   successfully   crossing   the   summit  of 
the  Sierras,  a  series  of  benches  necessitated  the 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  53 

lowering  of  the  wagons  by  ropes.  This  was 
accomplished  by  taking  a  turn  of  the  rope 
around  trees,  and  gradually  allowing  them  to 
descend,  after  lightening  them  as  much  as 
could  be  done  conveniently. 

Grass  Valley,  on  the  west  slope  of  the  Sierras, 
was  reached  on  the  next  day.  This  was  virtually 
the  end  of  the  trip,  and  here,  with  splendid 
pasturage  and  good  water,  the  immigrants  en- 
joyed their  well-earned  repose  after  the  fatigues 
of  a  four  months'  journey  across  the  continent. 
In  this  neighborhood  some  small  gulches  were 
found  which  contained  gold,  and  a  small 
amount  was  taken  out.  Favorable  reports  were 
here  received  from  the  mines  on  the  Stanislaus  ; 
but  it  was  decided  to .  push  on  to  Sacramento, 
which  place  was  reached  after  three  days'  travel. 
Camp  was  made  a  short  distance  from  the  city, 
on  good  grazing  ground.  Here  a  rest  of  one 
whole  week  was  taken. 

At  this  place  the  existence  of  Capt.  Radford's 
company,  as  an  organized  body,  ceased,  and 
the  men  who  had  so  long  and  faithfully  acted 
together  parted  company,  in  some  cases  forever. 
Brady,  of  De Milt's  mess,  joined  a  military 


54         THE  LfFE,  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

organization  for  the  relief  of  immigrant  parties, 
and  the  two  separated  and  saw  no  more  of  one 
another  for  sixteen  years,  when  they  met  quite 
romantically,  as  brothers-in-law,  in  1865,  having 
married  sisters  in  different  parts  of  the  States  ; 
the  facts  of  which  were  altogether  unknown  by 
the  two  old  friends  and  messmates. 


OF  AN  AMERICAN   WANDERER. 


55 


CHAPTER   VII. 

Hangtown — Mormon  Gulch — The  Winter  of  49-50 — Inci- 
dents of  Life  among  the  Gold-Hunters — Bucking  the 
tiger — Break-up  in  the  Spring — Plans  for  Work — Sacra- 
mento— Roulette — $  18.000,  in  one  roll  of  the  ball — 
Life  in  California  in'49. 

AFTER  the  disorganization  of  the  Radford 
train,  the  men  split  off  into  various  bands,  as 
suited  them,  and  went  out "  on  their  own  hook," 
as  the  saying  is.  DeMilt,  and  some  sixteen 
of  his  original  associates,  provided  themselves 
with  tools,  implements  of  mining,  etc.,  and  pro- 
ceeded to  Mormon  Gulch  some  six  miles  or  so, 
from  a  classic  spot  dubbed  "  Hangtown "  so 
called  from  the  hanging  of  two  men,  who  were 
executed  in  that  neighborhood  for  crimes  com- 
mitted by  them — Judge  Lynch  presiding. 

Here  a  double  cabin  was  erected,  and  arrange- 
ments perfected  for  passing  the  winter,  or 
rainy  season,  at  this  place.  Black  Cupid,  in  the 


5 6         THE  LIFE,  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

meantime  had  gone  to  Sacramento  with  Kenely 
his  master,  and  was  cooking  at  a  hotel  in  that 
city ;  and  Radford  and  their  friends  had  left  for 
different  parts  of  the  gold  region. 

The  winter  in  the  double  cabin  in  Mormon 
Gulch  passed  without  extraordinary  incident,  and 
was  spent  in  frolicking,  and  perhaps  occasion- 
al fighting,  cooking,  eating,  drinking,  hunting, 
prospecting,  etc,  the  usual  occupations  of 
mixed  bands  of  men  in  a  wild  country.  A  num- 
ber of  grizzlies  were  killed  during  the  winter. 
Adventures  were  had,  both  with  these  grizz- 
lies and  their  neighbors,  the  Indians,  and  some 
quantity  of  gold  was  taken  out.  The  bar- 
rooms and  gambling  hells  of  Hangtown, 
we  fear,  were  somewhat  frequently  visited  by 
the  wilder  elements  of  the  party  ;  and  the  Monte 
dealers  of  that  locality,  consequently,  materially 
enriched  themselves.  One  of  the  men  accident- 
ally struck  up  an  acquaintance  with  an  old 
fellow  from  the  States,  who  had  been  a  preacher 
there,  but  who  was  now  dealing  in  "  Vingt- 
un,"  the  making  his  eternal  fortune,  in  a 
material  sense,  at  any  rate,  but  certainly  at  the 
expense  of  his  spiritual  well-being. 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  57 

When  spring  finally  came,  the  camp  was  bro- 
ken-up,  the  cabin  abandoned,  and  the  men,  who 
had  accumulated  a  capital  perhaps  of  four  or 
five  hundred  dollars  apiece,  started  out  to  dig, 
every  man  for  himself. 

DeMilt,  with  a  woollen  hat,  a  red  shirt,  his 
pack  on  his  back,  and  the  everlasting  and  tra- 
ditional revolver  and  bowie  knife,  left,  too, 
sold  his  mule,  and  visited  successively  Lawson's 
ranche,  and  Shasta  diggings,  and  started  for 
Oregon.  Hearing  unfavorable  reports  from 
that  country,  he  went  back  to  Marysville,  and 
thence  to  Sacramento. 

In  Sacramento  he  became  acquainted  with,  and 
was  employed  by  a  man  named  James  Lundy, 
who  kept  an  eating-house  and  gambling-saloon 
in  connection  with  the  Tahama  theatre.  This, 
employment,  though  not  the  most  acceptable  in 
the  world,  was  about  the  best  offering  itself  at 
the  time  ;  and  our  hero  did  passably  well,  until  a 
Mormon  of  some  note,  named  Sam  Brannon 
came  along  one  night,  and  coolly  inquiring,  at 
a  roulette  table,  what  the  "  limit,"  of  the 
bank  was,  he  was  informed  that  it  was  $18,000 
dollars.  Brannon,  without  a  word,  produced 


S8          THE  LIFE,   TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

that  amount  in  dust  and  nuggets,  and  staked 
every  dollar  of  it  on  one  roll  of  the  ball,  putting 
his  money  on  the  red. 

This,  of  course,  made  a  ripple  in  the  large 
hall,  where  red-shirted  and  revolver-laden  men 
from  all  parts  of  the  habitable  globe  were  con- 
gregated, drinking  and  gaming.  The  wheel 
was  whirled,  and  the  little  ball  started.  When 
it  stopped,  Jim  Lundy  was  a  ruined  man  and 
Brannon  walked  off  with  the  pile. 

The  cabin  in  Mormon  Galch  was,  in  the 
meantime,  found  and  occupied  by  a  strolling 
party  of  gold  diggers,and  mining  operations  were 
instituted  on  the  spot.  The  luck  of  this  party 
w.as  good,  and  large  quantities  of  "  pay  dirt  "  was 
taken  out.  These  men  "  struck  it  rich,"  and 
several  thousand  dollars  apiece  were  netted  on 
the  very  ground  where  our  friends  had,  uncon- 
scious of  the  character  of  the  place,  quietly 
and  innocently  spent  the  winter.  Our  friends 
listened  to  this  information  with  intense  disgust, 
as  may  be  easily  imagined. 

One  night  in  theTahama  theatre,  just  before 
the  curtain  rose,  DeMilt  was  approached  by  a 
chum  named  Mike  Billinger,  and  applied  to  for 


OF    AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  59 

the  loan  of  a  few  dollars.  Mike  told  the  usual 
story  of  bad  fortune  on  the  green  cloth,  etc.,  but 
of  course  added  that  his  luck  would  change. 
DeMilt,  without  thought,  lent  him  the  re- 
quired sum  and  went  to  bed.  On  awaking  the 
next  morning,  the  first  man  he  met  was  Mr. 
Billinger,  who  had  a  fabulous  amount  of  wealth 
on  his  person ;  Mike's  luck  had  changed.  He 
had  won  $2.000,  and  came  within  one  ounce  of 
breaking  the  bank.  DeMilt  took  an  active 
part  in  a  political  fight  for  municipal  officers, 
which  took  place  in  Sacramento  that  summer. 
His  party  was  successful,  his  favorites  were 
elected  and  duly  installed  in  office,  and  at  a 
grand  ball  in  honor  of  their  success,  DeMilt  offi- 
ciated as  manager,  and  cleared  several  hundred 
dollars.  Billinger,  who  had  borrowed  the 
money  from  DeMilt,  with  which  he  made  his 
stake  at  the  gambling  table,  insisted  on  return- 
ing the  amount  with  several  hundred  dollars 
interest,  which  DeMilt  was  only  too  ready  to 
accept.  Fortune  seemed  to  smile  on  the 
young  ?49-er,  and  money  to  flow  into  his 
pockets.  He  had  already,  in  the  first  year  of 
his  life  in  California,  amassed  a  considerable 


60          THE  LIFE,   TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

sum.  'Frisco,  now  the  cynosure  of  all  eyes,  at- 
tracted our  hero,  and  circumstances  soon  tended 
to  place  him  in  that  wonderful  city. 

With  a  delightful  climate  and  great  nat- 
ural advantages,  and,  beyond  all,  the  presence 
of  unlimited  gold,  California,  in  '49,  presented 
to  the  young  and  adventurous  of  the  time, 
a  field  like  that  which,  in  the  i6th  century,  was 
offered  by  Mexico  and  Peru  to  the  adventurous 
nobility  of  the  Old  World.  All  qualities,  grades 
and  colors  of  men  flocked  to  the  new  Eldorado, 
like  crows  to  a  cornfield.  Every  ship  was 
loaded,  the  prairies  of  the  new  West  were  black 
with  wagon  trains,  and  the  Isthmus  of  Panama 
was  choked  with  the  tide  pouring  to  the  coast 
of  gold.  Once  on  the  ground,  with  pick,  pan, 
shovel,  wheelbarrow  and  cradle ;  with  mind 
filled  by  wild  impalpable  hopes,  the  man  of 
'49,  went  to  work.  His  foot  trod  on  a  deposit 
of  gold.  Who  knew  but  in  an  hour,  a  week, 
a  month,  he  would  be  richer  than  all  the  Van- 
derbilts  ? 

Digger  Indians,  Mexicans,  Chinese  maraud- 
ers, Australian  cut- throats,  adventurers  from  the 
States,  lawyers,  bankers,  brokers,  clergymen, 


OF    AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  61 

dug  into  the  earth  at  Whiskey  Bar,  Humbug 
Creek,  Skunk  Flat,  Jesus  Maria,  Ignis  Fatuus 
Gulch,  and  Bloody  Bend,  and  panned  their 
dirt  with  the  feverish  anxiety  with  which  the 
gambler  watches  the  turn  of  a  card.  In  'Frisco 
the  '49-er  lived  regally  in  first-class  hotels  or  slept 
in  the  streets,  as  fortune  favored  or  slighted 
him.  At  the  mines,  he  slept  in  cabins  or  tents, 
and  ate  pork  and  beans  with  a  plum-duff  now 
and  then  for  Sunday's  dinner.  A  clever 
writer  of  the  time  thus  sums  it  up : 

Clubs,  reading-rooms,  and  female  society  were  things 
yet  to  be  ;  hence,  the  places  of  universal  resort  were  the 
drinking-saloon  and  gambling-house,  which  were  in 
most  cases  united  in  one  establishment.  With  a  keen  eye 
to  profit,  the  proprietors  of  these  establishments  had  fitted 
them  up  with  a  splendor  irresistibly  captivating  to  men 
who  for  months  had  seen  no  dwelling  more  attractive  than 
a  rude  hut  or  tent.  Pillars,  apparently  of  crystal,  sup. 
ported  the  gilded  roofs.  The  walls  were  a-blaze  with  huge 
mirrors,  alternating  with  pictures  of  the  worst  schools,  of 
the  most  brilliant  coloring,  and  the  most  questionable  de- 
signs. Nothing  could  be  more  motley  than  the  aspects  of 
the  crowd  there  assembled.  Miners  in  ragged  woollen  or 
greasy  buckskin,  with  long  hair  and  ferocious  mustaches ; 
Mexicans  in  gay  scrapes  and  slouched  hats ;  Chinamen 
with  long  tails  and  basin-like  hats ;  negroes,  hodmen, 
merchants,  mechanics,  all  in  what  costume  pleased  fortune 
— thronged  around  the  liquor  bars  and  the  monte  tables. 


62          THE  LIFE,   TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

Sunday  was  a  dead  letter,  a  day  of  holi- 
ness or  even  of  rest,  and  was  devoted  to  re- 
gattas, bull-fights,  chicken-mains,  dancing  and 
drinking.  The  following  will  show  from  what 
a  collection  of  beverages  the  '49-er  chose  a 
drink  to  his  fancy, — 


BILL  OF  FARE. 


Scotch  Ale, 
English  Porter, 
American  Brandy, 
Irish  Whiskey, 
Holland  Gin, 
Jamaica  Rum, 
French  Claret, 
Spanish  Sack, 
German  Hockamore, 
Persian  Sherbet, 
Portuguese  Port, 
Brazilian  Arrack, 
Swiss  Absynthe, 
East  India  Acids, 
Spirits  stews  and  toddies, 
Lager  Bier, 
New  Cider, 
Soda  Waters, 
Mineral'Drinks, 
Ginger  Pop, 
Usquebaugh, 
Sangeree, 


Ratifia, 

Tokay, 

Calcavalla, 

Alcohol, 

Cordial, 

Syrups, 

Stingo, 

Hot  Grog, 

Mint  Juleps, 

Gin  Sling, 

Brick  Taps, 

Sherry  Cobblers, 

Queen  Charlottes, 

Mountaineers, 

Brandy  Smashes, 

Whiskey  Punch, 

Cherry  Bouncer, 

Shamperone, 

Drizzle, 

Our  Own, 

Red  Light, 

Hains, 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER. 


BILL  OF  FARE.— -CONTINUED. 


Perkin, 

Mead, 

Metheglin, 

Egg-nogg, 

Capiliare, 

Kirschwassen, 

Cognac, 

Rhenish  wine, 

Malaga, 

Muscatel, 

Burgundy, 

Haut  Bersar, 

Champagne, 

Maraschino, 

Tafia, 

Negus, 

Tag, 

Shambro, 

Fiscor, 

Virginia, 

Knickerbocker, 

Snifter, 

Exchange, 

Poke, 

Agent, 

Floater, 

I.  O.  U, 

Smasher, 

Curacoa, 


Cigars 


Horns, 
Whistler, 
White  Line, 
Settler, 

Peach  and  Honey, 
Whiskey  Skin, 
Old  Sea  Dog, 
Pig  and  Whistle, 
Eye  Opener, 
Apple  Dam, 
Flip  Flap, 
One-eyed  Joe, 
Cooler, 
Cocktails, 
Tom  and  Jerry, 
Moral  Suasion, 
Jewett's  Fancy, 
Ne  Plus  Ultra, 
Citronella  Jam, 
Silver  Spout, 
Veto, 
Deacon, 
Ching  Ching, 
Sergeant, 
Stone  Wall, 
Rooster  Tail, 
Vox  Populi, 
Tug  and  Try, 
Saute  rne 
and  Tobacco. 


64         THE  LIFE,  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 


LIFE  OF  A  '49er,  AND  HIS  TEN  COMMAND- 
MENTS. 

A  man  spoke  these  words  and  said:  I  am  a  miner,  who 
wandered  "  from  away  down  east,"  and  came  to  sojourn 
in  a  strange  land  and  "  see  the  elephant."  And  behold  I 
saw  him,  and  bear  witness,  that  from  the  key  of  his  trunk 
to  the  end  of  his  tail,  his  whole  body  has  passed  before 
me  ;  and  I  followed  him  until  his  huge  feet  stood  still  before 
«i  clapboard  shanty;  then,  with  his  trunk  extended,  he 
pointed  to  a  candle-card  tacked  upon  a  shingle,  as  though 
he  would  say  read,  and  I  read  the 


MINERS'  TEN  COMMANDMENTS. 

I. 

Thou  shalt  have  no  other  claim  than  one. 
II. 

Thou  shalt  not  make  unto  thyself  any  false  claim,  nor 
any  likeness  to  a  mean  man,  by  jumping  one ;  whatever 
thou  findest  on  the  top  above,  or  on  the  rock  beneath,  or 
in  the  crevice  underneath  the  rock — or  I  will  visit  the  min- 
ers around  to  invite  them  on  my  side  ;  and  when  they  de- 
cide against  thee,  thou  shalt  take  thy  pick,  and  thy  pan,  thy 
shovel,  and  thy  blankets,  with  all  thou  hast,  and  "  go  pros- 
pecting," to  seek  good  diggings  ;  but  thou  shalt  find  none. 
Then,  when  thou  findest  that  thine  old  claim  is  worked,  and 
yet  no  pile  made  thee,  to  hide  in  the  ground,  or  in  the  old 
boot  beneath  thy  bunk,  or  in  buckskin  or  bottle  underneath 
thy  cabin,  but  hast  paid  all  that  was  in  thy  purse  away, 
worn  out  thy  boots  and  thy  garments,  so  that  there  is  no- 
thing good  about  them  but  the  pockets,  and  thy  patience 
is  likened  unto  thy  garments ;  at  last  thou  shalt  hire  thy 
body  out  to  make  thy  board  and  save  thy  bacon. 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  65 

III, 

Thou  shalt  not  go  prospecting  before  thy  claim  gives 
out.  Neither  shalt  thou  take  thy  money,  nor  thy  gold  dust, 
nor  thy  good  name,  to  the  gaming  table  in  vain,  for  monte, 
twenty- one,  roulette,  faro,  lansquenet  and  poker,  will  prove 
to  thee  that  the  more  thou  puttest  down  the  less  thou  shalt 
take  up;  and  when  thou  thinkest  of  thy  wife  and  children, 
thou  shalt  not  hold  thyself  guiltless,  but — insane. 


IV. 

Thou  shalt  not  remember  what  thy  friends  do  at  home 
on  the  Sabbath  day,  lest  the  remembrance  may  not  com- 
pare favorably  with  what  thou  doest  here.  Six  days  thou 
mayest  dig  or  pick  all  that  thy  body  can  stand  under ;  but 
the  other  day  is  Sunday  ,  yet  thou  washest  all  thy  dirty 
shirts,  darnest  all  thy  stockings,  tap  thy  boots,  mend  thy 
clothing,  chop  thy  whole  week's  fire-wood,  make  up  and 
bake  thy  bread  and  boil  thy  pork  and  beans,  that  thou 
wait  not  when  thou  returnest  from  thy  long-torn  weary. 
For  in  six  days'  labor  only  thou  canst  not  work  enough  to 
wear  out  thy  body  in  two  years  ;  but  if  thou  workest  hard 
on  Sunday  also,  thou  canst  do  it  in  six  months  ;  and  thou 
and  thy  son,  and  thy  daughter,  thy  male  friends  and  thy 
female  friends,  thy  morals  and  thy  conscience,  be  none  the 
better  for  it ;  but  reproach  thee,  shouldst  thou  ever  return 
with  thy  worn-out  body  to  thy  mother's  fireside ;  and  thou 
strive  to  justify  thyself,  because  the  trader  and  the  black- 
smith, the  carpenter  and  the  merchant,  the  tailors,  Jews, 
and  buccaneers,  defy  God  and  civilization,  by  keeping  not 
the  sabbath  day,  nor  wish  for  a  day  of  rest,  such  as  mem- 
ory, youth  and  home,  made  hallowed. 


V. 

Thou  shalt  not  think  more  of  all  thy  gold,  and  how  thou 
canst  make  it  fastest,  than  how  thou  wilt  enjoy  it,  after 
thou  hast  ridden,  roughshod,  over  thy  good  old  parent's 
precepts  and  examples,  that  thou  mayest  have  nothing  to 


66         THE  LIFE,  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

reproach  and  sting  thee,  when  thou  art  left  ALONE  in  the 
land  where  thy  father's  blessing  and  thy  mother's  love 
hath  sent  thee. 


VI. 

Thou  shalt  not  kill  thy  body  by  working  in  the  rain,  even 
though  thou  shalt  make  enough  to  buy  physic  and  attend- 
ance with.  Neither  shalt  thou  kill  thy  neighbor's  body  in 
a  duel ;  for,  by  "  keeping  cool,"  thou  canst  save  his  life 
and  thy  conscience.  Neither  shalt  thou  destroy  thyself  by 
getting  "  tight,"  nor  "  slewed,"  nor  "  high,"  nor  "  corned," 
nor  "  half-seas-over,"  nor ."  three  sheets  in  the  wind,"  by 
drinking  smoothly  down — "  brandy-slings,"  "gin-cock- 
tails," "  whisky-punches,"  "  rum-toddies,"  nor  "  egg-nogs." 
Neither  shalt  thou  suck  "  mint-julips,"  nor  "  sherry-cob- 
blers" through  a  straw,  nor  gurgle  from  the  bottom  the 
"raw  material,"  nor  "take  it  neat"  from  a  decanter,  for, 
while  thou  art  swallowing  down  thy  purse,  and  thy  coat 
from  off  thy  back,  thou  art  burning  the  coat  from  off  thy 
stomach ;  and,  if  thou  couldst  see  the  houses  and  lands, 
and  gold  dust,  and  home  comforts  already  lying  there — • 
"  a  huge  pile  " — thou  shouldst  feel  a  choking  in  thy  throat ; 
and  when  to  that  thou  addest  thy  crooked  walkings  and 
hiccuping-talkings,  of  lodgings  in  the  gutter,  of  broilings 
in  the  sun,  of  prospect-holes  half  full  of  water,and  of  shafts 
and  ditches,  from  which  thou  hast  emerged  like  a  dro-.vn- 
ing  rat,  thou  wilt  feel  disgusted  with  thyself,  and  inquire 
"  Is  thy  servant  a  dog,  that  he  doeth  these  things  ?  " 
verily  I  will  say,  Farewell,  old  bottle,  I  will  kiss  thy  gurg- 
ling lips  no  more.  And  thou  slings,  cocktails,  punches, 
smashes,  cobblers,  nogs,  toddies,  sangarees,  and  julips, 
forever  farewell !  Thy  remembrance  shames  me,  hence- 
forth, I  "cut  thy  acquaintance,"  and  headaches,  tremblings, 
heart-burnings,  blue-devils,  and  all  that  unholy  catalogue 
of  evils  that  follow  in  thy  train.  My  wife's  smiles,  and  my 
children's  merry-hearted  laughter,  shall  charm  and  reward 
me  for  having  the  manly  firmness  and  courage  to  say  NO  ! 
I  wish  thee  an  eternal  farewell ! 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  67 

VII. 

Thou  shalt  not  grow  discouraged,  nor  think  of  going 
home  before  thou  hast  made  thy  "  pile,"  because  thou  hast 
not  "  struck  a  lead,"  nor  found  a  "  rich  crevice,"  nor  sunk 
a  hole  upon  a  "  pocket,"  lest  in  going  home  thou  shalt 
leave  four  dollars  a  day,  and  go  to  work,  ashamed,  at  fifty 
cents,  and  serve  thee  right ;  for  thou  knowest  by  staying 
here  that  thou  mightest  strike  a  lead  and  fifty  dollars  a  day, 
and  keep  thy  manly  self-respect,  and  then  go  home  with 
enough  to  make  thyself  and  others  happy. 


VIII. 

Thou  shalt  not  steal  a  pick,  or  a  shovel,  or  a  pan,  from 
thy  fellow  miner;  nor  take  away  his  tools  without  his 
leave  ;  nor  borrow  those  he  cannot  spare ;  nor  return  them 
broken,  nor  tiouble  him  to  fetch  them  back  again  ;  nor 
talk  with  him  while  his  water  rent  is  running  on  ;  nor  re- 
move his  stake  to  enlarge  thy  claim,  nor  undermine  his 
bank  in  following  a  lead,  nor  pan  out  gold  from  his  "  rifle- 
box,"  nor  wash  the  "  tailings,"  from  his  sluice's  mouth. 
Neither  shalt  thou  pick  out  specimens  from  the  company's 
pan  to  put  them  in  thy  mouth  or  in  thy  purse  ;  nor  cheat 
thy  partner  of  his  share  ;  nor  steal  from  thy  cabin  mate 
his  gold  dust,  to  add  to  thine,  for  he  will  be  sure  to  dis- 
cover what  thou  hast  done,  and  will  call  his  fellow  miners 
together,  and  if  the  law  hinders  them  not,  they  will  hang 
thee,  or  give  thee  fifty  lashes,  or  shave  thy  head  and  brand 
thee,  like  a  horse  thief,  with  R  upon  thy  cheek,  to  be  known 
and  read  by  all  men,  Californians  in  particular. 


IX. 

Thou  shalt  tell  no  false  tales  about .' '  good  diggings  in 
the  mountains  "  to  thy  neighbor,  that  thou  mayest  benefit  a 
friend  who  hath  mules,  and  provisions,  and  tools,  and 
blankets,  he  cannot  sell — lest  in  deceiving  thy  neighbor, 
when  he  returneth  through  the  snow,  with  naught  save  his 


68          THE  LIFE,  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

rifle,  he  present  thee  with  the  contents  thereof,  and  like  a 
dog,  thou  shall  fall  down  and  die. 


X. 

Thou  shalt  not  commit  unsuitable  matrimony,  nor  covet 
"  single  blessedness  "  ;  nor  forget  absent  maidens ;  nor 
neglect  thy  "first  love"  ;  — but  thou  shalt  consider  how 
faithfully  and  patiently  she  awaiteth  thy  return  ;  yea,  and 
covereth  each  epistle  that  thou  sendest  with  kisses  of  kindly 
welcome — until  she  hath  thyself.  Neither  shalt  thou  covet 
thy  neighbor's  wife  nor  trifle  with  the  affections  of  his 
daughter ;  yet,  if  thy  heart  be  free,  and  thou  love  and  covet 
each  other,  thou  shalt  "  pop  the  question  "  like  a  man,  lest 
another  more  manly  than  thou  art  should  step  in  before 
thee,  and  thou  love  her  in  vain,  and  in  the  anguish  of  thy 
heart's  disappointment,  thou  shalt  quote  the  language  of 
the  great,  and  say,  "  sich  is  life  "  ;  and  thy  future  lot  be 
that  of  a  poor,  lonely,  despised  and  comfortless  bachelor. 

A  New  Commandment  give  I  unto  thee — if  thou  hast  a 
wife  and  little  ones,  that  thou  lovest  dearer  than  thy  life — 
that  thou  keep  them  continually  before  thee,  to  cheer  and 
urge  thee  onward  until  thou  canst  say,  "  I  have  enough — 
God  bless  them  ! — I  will  return."  Then  as  thou  journeyest 
toward  thy  much  loved  home,  with  open  arms  shall  they 
come  forth  to  welcome  thee,  and  falling  upon  thy  neck, 
weep  tears  of  unutterable  joy  that  thou  art  come  ;  then  in 
the  fulness  of  thy  heart's  gratitude,  thou  shall  kneel  be- 
fore thy  Heavenly  Father  together,  to  thank  Him  for  thy 
safe  return.  AMEN — So  mote  it  be  ! 

FORTY-NINER. 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  69 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

San  Francisco — Hazard  and  Hale — The  Schooner — 
Freighting — Throws  up  his  berth — Driving  team  in 
'Frisco — The  Dentist ;  pulling  the  wrong  tooth — 
Vigilants — Great  Fire  of  May,  1851 — Determines  to 
start  back  to  the  States — The  Brig  "  Mary  Ann." 

ONE  day,  while  lounging  about  the  river 
banks  of  Sacramento,  DeMilt  observed  two 
men  who  belonged  to  a  schooner  anchored  at 
the  Levee.  One  was  a  tall,  dark  individual,  the 
other  short  and  of  fair  complexion.  Both  were 
unmistakably  seafaring  men,  as  DeMilt  could 
readily  tell  from  their  looks,  and,  in  fact,  they 
had  just  landed  from  their  vessel  and  were 
cooking  a  meal  on  shore.  After  they  had 
cooked  and  eaten  their  food  and  were  standing 
about  the  docks,  DeMilt  accosted  them  politely, 
and  the  three  entered  into  conversation. 

These  two  seamen  proved  to  be  Messrs. 
Hazard  and  Hale,  the  one  from  New  York,  the 


^O         THE  LSFE,  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

other  from  Boston,  Mass.  Both  men  were  first- 
class  seamen,  and  both  had  acted  in  the  capa- 
city of  first  mate  on  their  respective  vessels. 
They  had  met  by  accident  in  'Frisco,  and  be- 
coming acquainted,  had  engaged  in  business. — 
A  fifteen  ton  schooner  had  been  chartered 
by  them,  and  they  were  engaged  in  the  business 
of  freighting  from  San  Francisco  to  Stockton 
and  Sacramento. 

Both  men  were  prepossessed  in  DeMilt's 
favor  by  their  brief  conversation  with  him,  and 
in  the  course  of  this,  their  first  meeting,  pro- 
posed that  he  should  enter  into  co-partnership 
with  them  in  the  freighting  business.  This  pro- 
position was,  after  consideration,accepted  by  De- 
Milt.  DeMilt  was  to  exercise  a  general  super- 
vision over  the  details  of  the  business,  a  task  that 
necessitated  considerable  hard  work,  and  was 
to  share  equally  with  his  partners  in  the  profits 
of  the  traffic. 

Our  hero  now  makes  his  first  trip  to  San 
Francisco  in  the  schooner.  Four  trips  were 
made  by  him  in  this  vessel ;  three  to  Sacra- 
mento, and  one  to  Stockton.  Arriving  at  Stock- 
ton, they  became  involved  in  a  lawsuit  with  a 


'  STREET     SCENE     IN     SAN     FRANCISCO. 


OF  AN  AMERICAN   WANDERER.  ji 

man  for  whom  they  had  been  carrying  potatoes, 
and  DeMilt,  far  from  being  satisfied  with  the 
outlook  of  affairs,  had  a  settlement  with  his 
partners,  and  retired  from  the  concern ;  going 
back,  however,  to  San  Francisco,  where  he 
began  to  look  about  for  an  occupation. 

The  first  employment  offering  itself  was  the 
proposition  of  a  man  named  Kent,  from  New 
Bedford,  Mass.,  to  engage  our  hero  as  driver  of 
one  of  his  teams.  This  he  accepted  and  followed 
for  a  period  of  about  two  months.  Several  op- 
portunities in  the  meantime  offered  themselves 
for  investment  of  different  kinds  ;  among  which 
was  the  raffle  of  a  gold  watch  and  chain,  owned 
by  DeMilt.  This  he  raffled  and  afterwards 
won  back. 

At  this  time,  having,  by  economy  and  pru- 
dence, amassed  a  right  snug  little  sum  of  his 
own,  DeMilt  determined  to  become  his  own 
master,  bought  a  team  and  mule?,  and  hauled 
lumber  at  a  fair  profit  to  himself. 

Being  troubled  about  this  time  with  a  de- 
cayed and  aching  tooth,  DeMilt  went  to  a 
dentist  to  have  it  extracted.  The  dentist, 
through  extraordinary  bad  luck,  got  his  forceps 


72         THE  LIFE,  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

on  the  wrong  tooth,'  and  with  a  fearful  wrench 
pulled  it.  This  necessitated,  of  course,  the  loss 
of  two  teeth,  instead  of  one,  and  DeMilt  was 
consequently  very  justly  enraged  thereat.  He 
affected,  however,  a  much  greater  degree  of 
anger  than  he  really  felt,  and  drawing  his  re- 
volver— nobody  went  without  a  revolver  or  two 
in  those  days — made  the  dentist  believe  he  was 
about  to  be  exterminated.  The  poor  fellow 
craved  forgiveness  in  the  most  abject  mapner, 
and  with  profuse  apologies ;  DeMilt  appeared, 
however,  to  be  inexorable,  and  the  dentist,  no 
doubt,  imagined  that  his  hour  had  come.  After 
some  by-play  of  a  tragi-comic  nature,  the  affair 
was  compromised  by  the  dentist  promising  to 
give  a  grand  supper  at  a  prominent  hotel,  which 
he  did.  DeMilt  now  having  lost  two  teeth,  was 
to  have  the  pleasure  at  any  rate  of  making 
good  use  of  those  he  had  left  at  the  expense 
of  the  careless  dentist  who  was  glad  enough 
to  escape  so  lightly. 

At  this  time,  the  general  unsafety  of  life  and 
property,  the  result  of  the  accumulation  of 
Sidney  birds  and  other  banditti  in  San  Fran- 
cisco, necessitated  the  organization  of  the 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  73 

celebrated  vigilance  committee ;  otherwise  known 
as  "  Vigilants."  The  history  of  this  world- 
famed  organization  is  familiar  to  all  wherever 
the  English  language  is  spoken.  Our  adven- 
turer was  one  of  the  original  "  committee,"  or- 
ganized in  '51  by  Wakeman.  The  terrible 
career  of  this  organization  was  inaugurated  by 
the  summary  execution  of  two  desperadoes 
on  the  piazza.  The  heavy  hand  they 
dealt  ^with  and  wiped  out  the  accumulating 
villany  of  those  days  was  quickly  felt  and  feared. 
Order  soon  resumed  its  sway  in  'Frisco.  With 
a  brief  sketch  of  the  times  and  circumstances 
that  called  forth  this  committee,  and  of  their 
acts  and  policy,  we  will  pass  on  to  our  history. 

During  the  first  year  of  the  influx  of  immi- 
grants to  California  such  a  thing  as  theft  was 
unknown.  People  slept  in  their  houses  with 
their  doors  unlocked,  and  open,  for  that  matter, 
their  gold  and  valuables  unthought  of  and  un- 
guarded. There  was  no  need  of  precaution.  The 
absence  of  organized  government  and  the  pro- 
tections of  law,  had  placed  men  on  their  honor ; 
and  the  class  of  men  then  in  California  was  of 
the  best.  Nobody  took  precautions  against 


74         THE  LIFE,  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

crime,  because  there  were  no  criminals.  A 
universal  sense  of  security  pervaded  all  quarters. 
For  a  period,  in  those  early  days,  crime  was  un- 
known in  California.  A  few  short  months,  and 
how  great  the  change !  The  English  penal 
colonies  vomited  their  vile  brood  of  Sidney 
birds,  etc.,  on  the  shores  of  California,  and  then 
was  createdthe  "  Vigilance  Committee  "  and  the 
inevitable  contest  between  society  and  its  sworn 
enemies.  When  a  judge  duly  authorized  by 
law  to  protect  society  became  corrupt  and 
failed  to  perform  his  duties,  society  pro- 
nounced him  disqualified,  and  Judge  Lynch 
was  substituted.  Swift  and  terrible  was  the 
retribution.  Outraged  society  arose  in  its 
might  against  the  banditti,  and  swept  them 
from  the  face  of  the  earth ! 

DeMilt  and  his  mules  and  wagons  found  all 
they  could  do  in  the  great  fire  of  May,  '51,  and 
were  for  hours  engaged  in  hauling  the  Custom- 
house books  to  a  place  of  safety.  Any  price  was 
offered  for  wagons,  and  the  lucky  owners  were 
paid  from  $20  to  $100  a  load,  pay  enough  for 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  75 

a  dozen  mules.  He  lost  one  team,  worth  $500, 
but  made  enough  to  compensate  him  dur- 
ing the  fire.  DeMilt  had  also  a  squatter's 
claim  on  Bush  Street. 

After  a  stay  of  some  months  in  San  Fran- 
cisco, our  hero  became  discontented,  and  re- 
solved to  return  to  the  States.  His  constant 
aim  had  been  to  seek  his  relatives  at  the 
earliest  opportunity.  Once  decided,  he  was 
rapid  in  action.  His  effects  were  soon  disposed 
of,  and  taking  passage  on  the  brig  "  Mary  Ann  " 
for  Panama,  he  is  soon  bounding  over  the  quiet 
waters  of  the  Pacific. 


THE  LIFE,  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 


CHAPTER  IX. 

Homeward  Bound — The  Brig  Mary  Ann — Voyage  down 
the  Coast — The  Storm  at  Sea — Acapulco — Realejo— • 
The  determination  to  cross  the  Nicaraguan  Isthmus — 
Incidents  of  the  Crossing — The  San  Juan  River  and 
Greytown. 

FORTY  or  fifty  persons,  besides  DeMilt,  had 
paid  their  passage-money  to  the  captain  of  the 
"Mary  Ann"  for  the  trip  to  Panama,  where  they 
intended  to  cross  the  isthmus,  and  await  at 
Chagres  the  vessel  which  was  to  take  them  to 
New  York,  and  thence  go  to  their  homes 
throughout  the  States.  It  was  a  motley  gather- 
ing of  returning  Californians,  and,  as  fickle 
fortune-  willed  it,  it  consisted  of  the 
wealthy  miner,  who  had  "struck  it  rich,"  and 
was  bound  homeward  in  high  feather,  and  of 
the  wearied  and  broken  man,  who  hacj  found 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  77 

no  gold,  and  who,  sick  and  destitute,  had  just 
scraped  together  sufficient  to  pay  his  way  back 
to  civilization  and  friends. 

Everybody  knew  that  the  trip  down  the 
coast — as  the  old  sailing-vessel  trips  always  were 
— would  be  tedious  beyond  measure,and  theypre- 
pared  themselves  for  it  as  best  they  could.  Read- 
ing, writing,  smoking,  drinking,  gambling,  and 
idling  about  the  vessel's  decks  were  the  principal 
occupations  of  the  passengers,  and  time  hung 
heavily  enough  upon  them.  DeMilt  had  asked, 
and  obtained,  permission  to  swing  a  hammock 
in  the  forward  rigging,  and  whiled  away  the 
long  hours  in  smoking,  reading  and  sleeping. 
The  lurid  fires  of  burning  volcanoes  at  night,  in 
the  distance,  often  reminded  them  that  the 
coast  was  not  far  distant,  and  at  intervals  afford- 
ed a  magnificent  spectacle.  The  travels  of  De- 
Milt  came  near  drawing  to  a  close,  one  after- 
noon, during  this  trip,  when  he  was  quietly 
reading  in  his  hammock  watching  the  pas- 
sengers about  the  decks,  and  wishing  heartily 
for  the  end  of  this  miserable  journey.  A  little, 
black-looking  cloud  to  windward  attracted  his 
attention,  and  it  caught  the  skipper's  eye  about 


73         THE  LIFE,  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

the  same  time,  for  he  immediately  ordered  the 
sail  taken  in.  The  sailors  had  scarcely 
mounted  into  the  rigging  to  obey  his  orders, 
when  the  cloud,  which  had  rapidly  approached, 
seemed  to  burst  directly  over  them,  with  fright- 
ful violence,  throwing  the  vessel  on  her  beam 
ends.  DeMilt  found  himself  suspended  over  the 
seething  waters,  into  which  his  book,  a 
valuable  poncho,,  and  a  pair  of  blankets,  had 
already  been  cast ;  and  which  seemed  to  be 
furiously  trying  to  seize  him.  DeMilt  managed, 
by  a  violent  effort,  to  retain  his  position  in  the 
hammock,  aided  by  a  timely  clutch  at  the  rig- 
ging. This  book  had  never  been  written 
had  he  lost  his  hold  of  the  hammock  during 
that  squall  off  the  Mexican  coast.  The  captain 
of  the  "  Mary  Ann  "  was  a  thorough  seaman, 
however,  and  soon  righted  his  vessel,  and  they 
scudded  before  the  gale,  which  was  still  blow- 
ing great  guns,  under  bare  poles  and  at  break- 
neck speed. 

The  "Mary  Ann"  put  in  at  Acapulco  for  pro- 
visions, etc.,  and  remained  a  few  days,  greatly 
to  the  relief  of  the  exhausted  passengers.  The 
Nicaraguan  port  of  Real e jo  was  reached  in  the 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER,  79 

course  of  two  or  three  weeks,  and  here 
a  break  was  made  from  the  brig,  most  of 
the  passengers  resolving  to  forfeit  their  passage 
to  Panama,  and  cross  the  Nicaraguan  isthmus 
from  Realejo  to  Greytown  or  San  Juan  del 
Norte,  where  they  knew  that  steamers  would 
be  easily  had  for  the  passage  to  New  York. 
Realejo  is  a  dirty  little  Central  American  town, 
of,  perhaps,  1 500  inhabitants,  with  a  few  re- 
spectable looking  houses  and  one  or  two 
churches.  There  is  no  harbor  of  much  note, 
and  merchandise  and  freight  is  transferred  in 
lighters  from  the  ships  to  the  shore.  Chris. 
Lilly,  a  pugilist  of  some  note,  was  here  when 
the  "Mary  Ann"  touched  at  Realejo,  and,  having 
acquired  some  favor  in  one  of  the  revolutionary 
States,  he  had  been  granted  a  monopoly  of  the 
pilot  business-  at  Realejo,  kept  an  hotel,  and 
was  engaged  in  lightering.  DeMilt  had  seen 
Lilly  fight  in  'Frisco. 

Many  of  the  passengers  were  in  favor  of 
proceeding  onward  to  San  Juan  del  Sur,  before 
attempting  to  cross  the  isthmus,  which  was  much 
narrower  at  that  point.  That,  in  fact,  was  the 
regular  crossing-place  for  people  who  wished  to 


80         THE  LIFE,  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

embark  at  San  Juan  del  Norte  for  New  York, 
but,so  badly  disgusted  were  a  majority  of  the  par- 
ty with  the  slow  progress  of  the  brig,  that  they 
declined  setting  foot  upon  her  decks  again,  al- 
though the  distance  from  Realejo  to  Greytown, 
or  San  Juan  of  the  North,  must  have  been  at 
least  six  or  eight  hundred  miles.  Some  days 
were  consumed  in  perfecting  arrangements  for 
mules  and  wagons  with  which  to  cross  the 
isthmus. 

The  outlook  was  far  from  being  a  promising 
one.  The  vehicles  were  rude  wagons,  with 
two  wheels,  drawn  by  mules  or  oxen.  The 
wheels  were  simply  sections  cut  from  solid  logs, 
with  a  central  hole  to  admit  the  axle.  Into 
this  hole  slips  of  bark  were  inserted  from  time 
to  time  by  a  native,  who  followed  each  cart,  for 
the  purpose  of  "  greasing  "  them.  Travelling 
at  an  average  speed,  of  perhaps  eighteen  or 
twenty  miles  a  day,  the  towns  of  Chinchegal- 
pa,  Chinendaga,  and  other  places,  were  passed 
through,  and  the  City  of  Leon,  the  principal  town 
of  the  Occidental  Department, was  reached.  Leon 
was  in  a  state  of  revolution  at  this  time,  some 
three  or  four  years  before  Walker  and  his  men 


.      OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  gx 

went  over  the  ground.  An  American  party,  of 
the  size  of  the  one  of  which  DeMilt  was  a 
member,  was  of  sufficient  strength  to  have 
turned  the  scale  of  war  which  ever  way  they 
chose,  and  tempting  offers  of  money  and  lands 
were  offered  them  to  join  one  or  the  other  of 
the  contending  forces.  These  offers  were  all 
refused,  as  the  Americans  were  not  of  a  fili- 
bustering turn  of  mind,  but  merely  desired  to 
get  back  to  their  homes.  Passes  were  issued 
to  them  by  the  commandants,  and  they  pro- 
ceeded onward.  Mahogany,  dye-woods,  coffee, 
and  cochineal  abounded  in  the  territory  through 
which  the  party  slowly  jolted  in  their  rude  carts 
At  Masaya  pumice  stone  was  seen  floating  in 
the  lake.  Large  numbers  of  chiggars  infested 
the  route,  as  was  seen  by  the  terrible  condition 
of  many  of  the  natives.  This  insect  deposits 
its  eggs  beneath  the  surface  of  the  skin,  in  a 
small  sac,  which,  unless  immediately  extracted, 
without  breaking,  causes  a  terrible  sore.  Tor- 
tillas, pieces  of  soap,  lumps  of  sugar  and,  the  like, 
are  used  as  a  medium  of  exchange  by  the  natives 
in  lieu  of  coin. 

At  Grenada,  en  Lake  Nicaragua,  a  city  after- 


82          THE  LIFE,   TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

ward  sacked  and  demolished  by  Gen.  Walker, 
some  days  were  consumed  in  waiting  for  bon- 
gos and  natives  to  transport  them  across  the  lake 
to  San  Carlos,  and  thence  down  the  San  Juan 
River  to  Greytown,  on  the  Carribean  Sea.  The 
bongo  is  a  vessel  cut  from  the  solid  log  of  the 
silk-cotton  tree,  and  is  often  seen,  hollowed 
from  a  single  trunk,  measuring  seven  feet  clear 
from  side  to  side.  The  bongos  are  manned  by 
natives,  whose  dress  consists  of  breech-cloth  and 
shirt,  the  latter  not  being  worn  while  at  work. 

Before  leaving  Grenada,  a  young  senorita  fell 
violently  in  love  with  DeMilt,  who  had  paid  her 
some  attentions  for  a  day  or  two,  while  waiting 
for  the  boats.  He  regarded  the  whole  thing  as 
a  light  flirtation,  but  was  convinced  to  the  con- 
trary when  the  hour  came  for  parting.  She 
wept,  vowed  she  would  follow  him  to  the  ends 
of  the  earth,  then  became  jealous  of  some  imag- 
inary rival,  and  nearly  slaughtered  DeMilt  with 
a  small  stilleto.  He  had  just  time  to  seize  her 
arm,  and  escaped  with  a  scratch. 

The  journey  down  the  San  Juan  to  Greytown, 
passed  without  particular  events,  beyond  the 
contracting  of  a  fever  by  DeMilt,  by  exposure 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  83 

to  one  of  the  temporales,  or  rains,  of  Central 
America,  and  the  heat  of  the  sun.  At  Grey- 
town  the  British  steamer  "  Clyde"  awaited  them, 
and  they  were  soon  en  route  to  Chagres. 


84         THE  LIFE,  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 


CHAPTER  X. 

The  Voyage  to  New  York — Mishap  at  Sea — Long  sought 
Relations — Adventures  in  the  Streets  of  the  Metropo- 
polis — Back  again  to  the  Gold  Fields — The  cmeute  at 
Chagres — Footing  it  across  the  Isthmus  of  Panama — 
The  Golden  Gate — Chagres — Fever. 

AT  Chagres,  passage  was  taken  on  the  steam- 
er "Illinois,"  for  New  York.  Rough  weather 
was  encountered  just  after  leaving  Kingston, 
Jamaica,  where  the  Illinois  stopped  to  coal ;  and 
the  vessel,  after  breaking  a  shaft,  was  blown  out 
of  her  course  and  nearly  dashed  to  pieces  on 
rocks  off  Cape  San  Antonio.  At  Havana,  how- 
ever, sufficient  repairs  were  made  in  the  steam- 
er's machinery  to  enable  her  to  continue  on  her 
course,  although  she  went  into  New  York  with 
but  one  wheel  turning,  and  after  grievous  and 
exasperating  delays. 

Once  in  New  York,  it  was  DeMilt's  first  task 
to  hunt  up  the  relatives  whom  he  knew  were 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  85 

there,  but  whom  he  had,  as  yet,  never  seen.  The 
address  of  his  aunt,  Maria  DeMilt,  was  soon 
found,  with  the  aid  of  a  city  directory  which  he 
inspected  at  an  hotel.  Hiring  a  carriage,  he 
jumped  in,  was  driven  to  her  residence, 
admitted,  made  himself  known,  and  was  warmly 
welcomed.  He  recounted  the  remarkable  story 
of  his  adventures  from  childhood,  described  the 
death  of  his  parents  at  Port  Leon,  and  his  sub- 
sequent wanderings.  This,  as  may  well  be  im- 
agined, was  listened  to  with  rapt  attention,  and 
he  was  soon  duly  installed,  the  lion  of  a  large 
circle  of  friends  and  relatives. 

DeMilt  was  dogged  on  the  steets  of  New 
York,  at  different  times,  by  ruffians  of  the  town, 
who  followed  unwary  strangers  after  nightfall, 
with  the  intent  to  rob  or  commit  murder.  On 
one  occasiojn,  when  followed  by  a  couple  of  hard- 
looking  fellows,  he  allowed  them  to  approach 
quite  closely,  and,  turning  suddenly,  confronted 
them  with  his  revolver.  The  apparition  of  the 
returned  Californian,  in  his  odd  costume  (he 
still  wore  the  Western  dress)  and  looking  quite 
ready  for  a  fight,  was  too  much  for  the  foot-pads 
and  they  beat  a  precipitate  retreat. 


86          THE  LIFE,   TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

After  a  life  of  two  months  in  the  metropolis, 
DeMilt  began  again  to  pine  for  the  West.  He 
had  been  reasonably  successful,  had  money, 
enjoyed  the  companionship  of  his  relatives,  and 
all  that,  but  longed  for  a  more  active,  stirring 
life  than  that  locality  could  afford.  In  short, 
he  determined  to  return  to  California,  engaged 
passage  to  Chagres  on  the  steamer  "  Ohio,"  on 
October  2oth,  1851,  and,  bidding  his  friends 
farewell,  was  soon  steaming  southward. 

DeMilt  carried  letters  to  Captain  Patterson,  of 
the  steamer  "Golden  Gate,"  which  some  time  pre- 
viously had  started  for  San  Francisco,  via  the 
Straits  of  Magellan,  and  which  was  expected  to 
arrive  at  Panama,  on  the  Pacific,  about  the 
same  time  that  DeMilt  arrived  at  Chagres,  on 
the  eastern  shore.  Patterson  was  connected 
by  marriage  with  the  DeMilts. 

On  arriving  at  Chagres,  the  "Ohio's  '  passen- 
gers were  notified  that  rioting  was  going  on  in 
the  town,  between  the  American  and  native  boat- 
men. In  fact,  it  was  easy  to  see  from  the  ship 
the  appearances  of  strife,  the  smoke  from  the 
firing,  reports  of  guns,  etc.  They  were  advised 
not  to  leave  the  vessel  until  the  fighting  ceased. 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  87 

Volunteers  were  called  for,  however,  to  go 
ashore  with  the  mails,  and  DeMilt,  who  was 
anxious  to  get  to  Panama,  stepped  forward 
immediately.  Two  or  three  other  passengers, 
and  the  boatswain  and  one  or  two  seamen, 
lowered  away  the  long  boat  and  started  ashore. 
They  made  a  detour  of  some  miles,  and  landed 
below  the  town,  which  they  finally  entered  from 
the  side  and  rear.  Skirmishing  was  still  pro- 
ceeding when  they  entered  Chagres.  Dead  and 
wounded  men  were  lying  about.  Men  were 
loading  and  firing  across  the  river  at  the  natives, 
and  one  tall  Kentuckian,  with  his  long  rifle,  was 
concealed  behind  the  lattice-work  of  an  hotel, 
and  was  coolly  picking  off  the  natives,  one  at  a 
time,  across  the  stream.  It  was  stated  that  he 
had  killed  many  of  them,  as  he  rarely  missed 
his  aim. 

A  small  steamer,  plying  on  the  Chagres  River, 
conveyed  the  passengers  and  mails  to  the  head 
of  navigation,  some  miles  off.  Many  victims  of 
the  terrible  Chagres  fever  wrere  on  board  this 
steamer,  and  were  suffering  and  dying  on 
board. 

DeMilt,  who  waited  for  nothing,  on  landing 


88         THE  LIFE,  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

from  the  steamer,  at  once  took  up  the  march 
on  foot,  across  the  isthmus,  twenty-eight  miles, 
following  the  old  Spanish  road,  which  had  been 
travelled  for  centuries,  and  which  was  so  well 
worn  and  beaten  that  to  lose  oneself  was  well- 
nigh  impossible.  The  footprints  of  mules  worn 
deep  into  the  solid  rock  were  seen  in  many 
places. 

The  "  Golden  Gate  "  was  anchored  in  the  offing 
when  DeMilt  arrived  at  Panama.  He  was 
overjoyed  on  learning  this,  presented  his  letters 
without  delay,  and  took  passage  for  San  Fran- 
cisco forthwith.  After  going  to  Bogata,  down 
the  coast,  for  coal,  the  vessel  started.  Eleven 
hundred  souls  freighted  this  fine,  new  Vessel, 
which  was  more  than  her  regular  complement; 
but  so  great  was  the  rush  of  men  to  California, 
that  they  could  not  easily  be  refused.  The 
"Golden  Gate"  put  in  at  Acapulco,  Mexico,  to 
re-victual.  Acapulco  has  the  only  important 
harbor  between  California  and  Panama ;  the 
other  ports  being  mere  roadsteads,  as  is  the 
case  with  Panama.  Perfectly  land-locked,  with 
waters  of  crystal  transparency,  the  harbor  of 
Acapulco  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  in  the 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  89 

world.  Some  sport  was  had  in  watching  the 
natives  diving  in  the  waters  of  the  bay  for  small 
coins,  thrown  overboard  to  them  by  passengers. 
The  water  is  of  great  depth,  but  wonderfully 
clear.  No  instance  is  on  record  of  a  native 
allowing  tlie  coin  to  escape  him. 

A  small-pox  scare,  and  other  incidents,  con- 
tributed to  relieve  the  monotony  of  the  voyage 
to  San  Francisco.  Supplies,  too,  ran  short, 
before  the  anchorage  was  reached,  and  the  pas- 
sengers were  put  on  short  allowance.  This  was 
not  a  very  serious  mat'.er,  however,  though  the 
vessel  could  scarcely  carry  enough  to  feed  this 
army  of  men.  Some  mischievous  chaps  con- 
trived to  have  themselves  lowered  over  the 
bows  of  the  ship,  and  chalked  in  huge  letters 
the  word  "  hunger."  This  was  done  just  be- 
fore entering  the  harbor  at  'Frisco,  and  greatly 
enraged  Capt.  Patterson. 


90         THE  LIFE,  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 


CHAPTER.  XI. 

Suffering  from  Chagres  Fever — Sacramento  and  Auborn— - 
Prospecting — Operations  on  North  Fork  of  America 
River — Stony  Bar  Company — Great  Expectations — 
Fluming,  etc — Disappointment — The  Green  Miner  of 
Baltimore  Ravine — Pay  Dirt — On  the  Wing  Again. 

UPON  arriving  in  San  Francisco,  for  the 
second  time,  DeMilt  remained  less  than  two 
weeks.  He  had  determined  to  occupy  himself 
in  digging,  and,  with  that  in  view,  started  for 
Sacramento,  Dec.  I,  1851,  where  he  was  delayed 
for  two  months.  Chagres  fever,  contracted,  no 
doubt,  on  the  Isthmus,  settled  in  his  throat 
and  caused  him  intense  suffering.  Continual 
lancing  of  the  swelling  was  necessary,  and  for 
some  days  he  could  eat  nothing  beyond  what 
was  given  him  on  a  spoon.  On  his  recovery, 
however,  which  was  perfect,  with  the  exception 


OF  AN  A  MERICAN  WANDERER.  g  x 

of  a  slight  scar,  he  started  for  Auburn,  fifty-five 
miles  from  Sacramento.  While  in  the  latter 
city  DeMilt  had  become  acquainted  with,  and 
was  employed  by,  a  man  named  Van  Winkle, 
from  New  Jersey,  who  was  engaged  in  the 
iron  trade. 

On  arriving  at  Auburn,  DeMilt  "  prospected 
around  "  for  a  week  or  two,  meeting  with  an  old 
hand,  named  Bill  Bird.  The  two  operated  to- 
gether in  diggings  in  Baltimore  Ravine.  They 
failed  to  strike  anything  considerable  here,  and 
moved  on  to  the  North  Fork  of  the  America 
River,  where  large  operations  were  progressing. 
At  this  place  the  indications  were  extraordi- 
narily good.  Fortune  seemed  to  smile  on  the 
travellers.  A  company,  known  as  the  Stony  Bar 
Company,  was  organized,  consisting  of  DeMilt 
and  six  others ;  two  swedes,  three  Missourians, 
and  a  sailor.  Claims  were  staked  off,  and  a 
cabin  erected,  and  it  was  decided  to  build  an 
immense  flume,  lay  bare  the  bottom  of  the  river, 
and  reap  the  rich  harvest  of  gold  with  which  the 
bed  was  supposed  to  be  lined. 

This  flume  was  finally  built,  after  great  labor 
and  expense.  Over  fifty  Chinamen  were  em- 


92          THE  LIFE,   TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

ployed,  at  three  dollars  per  day.  The  nearest 
point  at  which  lumber  was  to  be  obtained  was 
at  a  saw  mill,  ten  miles  distant.  Lumber 
was  worth  forty  to  sixty  dollars  per  thousand 
feet,  and  the  cost  and  labor  of  transporting  it 
were  terrible.  The  flume  was  three  hundred 
feet  long,  twelve  feet  wide,  and  with  sufficient 
fall  readily  to  carry  off  the  water. 

The  Stony  Bar  Company  was  universally 
thought  to  have  "struck  it."  $10,000  apiece  for 
shares  were  offered  and  refused,  on  the  day  before 
their  pumping  operations  were  to  begin.  Noth- 
ing less  than  $100,000  would  pay  for  a  share  in 
that  company,  whose  chances  were  thought  to 
be  the  best  of  any  on  the  river.  In  forty-eight 
hours  those  shares  were  valueless.  When  the 
bed  was  reached,  nothing  was  to  be  seen  but 
bare  rock,  with  the  exception  of  small  amounts, 
say  $400  or  $500,  or  little  pockets  in  the  bottom 
of  the  river. 

Thoroughly  wearied,  disheartened  and  disgus- 
ted, DeMilt  determined  to  leave  the  locality  in- 
stanter.  Shouldering  his  pick,  shovel  and  bun- 
dle, he  started  back  over  the  hill.  It  was  a  mile  to 
the  top,  and  on  reaching  the  summit,  he  glanced 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  93 

back  at  the  scene  of  his  expensive  but  fruitless 
operations,  and  then  left  it  forever.  He  reached 
Auburn  in  a  short  time,  and  "  prospected  " 
further,  with  very  ordinary  results.  Not- 
withstanding the  disheartening  failure  of  the 
Stony  Bar  Company,  DeMilt  was  yet  to  strike 
"  pay  dirt,"  as  the  sequel  will  show. 

One  afternoon,  while  wandering  about  on 
a  prospecting  tour,  in  Baltimore  Ravine,  he 
came  upon  a  tall,  slim  chap,  with  a  light,  "  sandy" 
complexion,  engaged  in  burrowing  in  the  earth. 
The  man  was  half  buried  in  a  little  hole  which 
he  had  scooped  out,  and  was  scarcely  big 
enough  for  a  coyote.  From  his  awkward 
manner  of  handling  himself,  it  was  evident  that 
this  was  his  first  attempt  at  gold-digging.  He 
had  with  him  a  little  match-box,  partly  filled 
with  gold,  however,  and  it  was  evident  that  in 
the  hands  of  an  adept,  the  outlook  was  far  from 
being  a  bad  one. 

DeMilt  approached,  and,  taking  a  seat  near 
by,  accosted  the  digger,  whose  name  was 
Billings.  He  had  been  a  school-teacher  in  the 
States.and  he  was  asked  what  luck  he  was  having. 
Billings,  who  proved  to  be  an  honest,  clever 


94         THE  LIFE,  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

fellow,  showed  his  little  pile,  and  frankly  ad- 
mitted that  he  was  a  novice  in  the  business, 
and  that  he  wanted  an  experienced  partner,  and 
asked  if  DeMilt  was  a  practical  miner.  De- 
Milt  replied  that  he  was  a  '49-er.  That  was 
sufficient,  and  Billings  at  once  proposed  that  they 
should  go  in  together  in  the  digging  business. 
He  said  that  he  was  owner  of  a  good  cabin  and 
outfit  near  by,  and  that  they  would  share 
equally  in  that  and  in  the  gold  to  be  taken  out, 
even  offering  to  halve  the  contents  of  his  little 
match-box. 

After  further  conversation,  in  which  scraps 
of  each  other's  history  were  exchanged,  etc., 
DeMilt  arose,  and,  grabbing  a  pick,  remarked 
that  he  would  see  how  the  thing  looked  before 
he  gave  an  answer,  and  sprang  at  the  hole  in 
which  Billings  had  been  operating  just  previous. 
He  laid  about  vigorously  for  some  time,  en- 
larged the  mouth  of  the  cavity,  and  struck  a 
stratum  of  decomposed  slate  in  which  he  could 
see  the  particles  of  gold  glistening.  He  ac- 
cepted the  proposition  of  Billings,  and  told  him 
the  value  of  the  place.  Claims  were  staked 
off,  and  operations  vigorously  prosecuted. 


OF    AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER,  95 

The  process  known  as  dry-washing  was 
followed,  which  consisted  in  piling  up  the  gold- 
bearing  dirt  in  heaps  and  then  waiting  for  the 
rainy  season  to  come.  This  was  necessitated 
by  the  scarcity  of  water.  Considerable  dust 
was  taken  out,  however,  before  this  season  ap- 
proached. When  the  work  commenced  in  ear- 
nest, the  true  value  of  the  digging  became 
apparent.  The  last  dirt  was  soon  washed  and 
the  proceeds  divided.  DeMilt,  while  washing, 
had  found  a  great  nugget,  worth  $100,  and 
shaped  like  an  elephant.  This  he  secreted  in 
his  pocket  for  an  hour  or  two,  and  when  they 
started  to  "  divide  up,"  and  the  last  washing 
was  in,  he  threw  this  nugget  on  top  of  the  pile 
before  the  eyes  of  the  astonished  Billings. 

Over  $3,000  apiece  was  netted  by  the  part- 
ners in  this  enterprise,  and,  on  selling  the 
cabin,  which  was  disposed  of  to  fellows  from 
the  States,  they  went  to  Sacramento  and  San 
Francisco,  where  they  separated,  Billings  taking 
his  way  back  to  the  States,  and  DeMilt  paying 
passage  to  Australia. 

Billings  was  allowed,  on  settling  up,  to  take 
the  golden  $100  nugget.  He  was  greatly 


96         THE  LIFE,   TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

delighted  at  this,  and  in  all  probability  owns 
it  to-day,  a  keepsake  of  the  man  to  whom 
he  owed  his  splendid  luck  and  the  fortune 
which  he  took  out  of  Baltimore  Ravine. 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER. 


CHAPTER  XII. 

On  Board  the  Galatea  —  The  Hawaiian  Islands  —  Honolulu 
Kanakas  —  Sharks  —  Neptune  —  Crossing  the  Line  —  The 
Navigator  Isles  —  Becalmed  in  the  Horse  Latitudes  — 
Swimming  —  Narrow  Escape  of  the.  Bathers  —  "  Hurry 
up,  boys,  there's  a  Breeze  Coming"  —  Rounding  Cape 
Howe  —  The  Gale  —  Putting  in  at  Sidney. 


and  his  friend,  Billings,  parted  re- 
luctantly. For  many  months  they  had  toiled 
together,  they  had  slept  under  the  same  roof, 
shared  the  same  food  and  blankets  ;  their  united 
efforts  had  forced  the  earth  to  yield  its  treasures, 
and  those  treasures  had  been  fairly  and 
honestly  shared,  without  a  syllable  of  com- 
plaint, without  a  murmur.  They  respected  one 
another,  and  felt  the  mutual  regard  which  is 
seldom  felt,  save  in  old  and  long  established 
friendships.  And  this  in  a  land  oft  blackened 
with  the  foulest  crimes,  where  violated  faith 


98         THE  LIFE,  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

seemed,  for  the  time,  to  bring  fortune  to  the 
violators,  where  murder  stalked  abroad,  where 
the  rankest  villany,  the  grossest  injustice, 
seemed  to  thrive  at  the  expense  of  uprightness. 

Billings  seemed  to  have  set  his  heart,  how- 
ever, upon  a  return  to  the  States  and  civili- 
zation ;  DeMilt  was  equally  resolved  to  follow 
fortune  to  distant  Australia,  a  mysterious  land 
from  which  came  glowing  accounts  of  gold 
discoveries.  The  friends  accordingly  parted 
at  San  Francisco. 

Early  in  the  month  of  April,  1853,  therefore, 
we  find  DeMilt,  or  'Lon,  as  he  was  generally 
called,  on  board  the  barque  "  Galatea,"  with  his 
passage  paid  to  Melbourne,  Australia.  About 
one  hundred  and  fifty  besides  himself  wrere  on 
the  vessel  bound  for  the  same  port.  A  voyage 
of  perhaps  two  weeks,  varied  only  by  the  usual 
incidents  of  the  old  sailing  vessel  trips,  took  the 
"  Galatea"  into  Honolulu,  Sandwich  Isles,  where 
they  landed,  and  remained  ten  or  twelve  days. 
Much  that  was  novel  and  interesting  was  to  be 
seen  in  Honolulu.  The  dusky  Kanakas  were 
a  curiosity  to  the  Californians,  their  expertness 
in  battling  with  and  destroying  the  sharks,  which 


LEAVING     FOIt     AI'STHAT.IA. 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  gg 

infested  the  adjacent  waters,  excited  their 
warmest  admiration.  They  visited  the  crater 
of  the  volcano,  just  back  of  Honolulu, 
amused  themselves  by  eating  two,  three, 
or  four  fingered  poie,  a  native  dish  composed 
of  material  something  of  the  nature  of  arrow- 
root, visited  the  mission  churches,  and  heard  the 
sermons  of  the  missionaries.  The  stay  in  Hon- 
olulu was  a,  pleasant  and  profitable  one  to  all. 

Setting  out  again,  the  line  was  crossed  be- 
fore seeing  land.  The  sea  god  Neptune  did 
not  fail  to  board  the  "  Galatea,"  and  great  was 
the  merriment  afforded  by  his  reception.  Soon 
after  "  crossing  the  line,"  the  barque  was  be- 
calmed in  the  "  horse  latitudes."  This  is  a  par- 
ticularly odious  feature  of  sea  travel  in  the  old 
sailing  craft,  and  after  wearying  themselves  to 
death  wishing  and  whistling  for  a  breeze,  the 
passengers,  or  many  of  them,  determined  one 
afternoon  to  bathe.  It  was  a  noticeable  fact  that 
the  sailors  of  the  "  Galatea,"  without  exception 
declined  to  participate  in  the  sport ;  they  evi- 
dently had  no  desire  to  form  the  acquaintance  of 
any  of  the  numerous  sharks  with  which  they 
knew  the  waters  to  be  infested.  Nothing  de- 


loo       THE  LIFE,    TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

terred,  however,  the  men  stripped  and  plunged 
in  from  the  vessel's  side.  They  were  cautioned 
not  to  venture  far.  All  of  a  sudden,  while  dis- 
porting themselves  in  the  deep,  and  no  doubt 
enjoying  themselves  hugely,  an  officer  of  the 
barque  who  was  stationed  aloft,  sang  out : 
"  All  hands  aboard,  there  is  a  breeze  coming ! " 
DeMilt  who  had  just  finished  a  dive  under  the 
vessel,  and  was  coming  up  on  the  other  side, 
was  one  of  the  first  to  reach  the  deck,  some- 
thing he  soon  had  cause  to  congratulate  himself 
upon.  That  "  breeze"  was  nothing  more  nor  less 
than  the  fin  of  a  huge  shark  cutting  the  water 
and  making  a  bee  line  for  the  bathers.  Know- 
ing that  to  sing  out  k'  shark  "  would  result  in  a 
panic,  and  loss  of  life,  the  officer  had  simply  an- 
nounced that  a  breeze  was  springing  up,  and 
hoped  that  their  eagerness  to  get  onward  would 
induce  the  men  to  get  aboard  without  delay.  He 
was  right.  The  last  man  had  just  left  the  water 
when  the  shark,  belly  upward,  made  a  lunge  at 
him.  The  man's  hair  stood  on  end,  but  he  was 
saved. 

Congratulating  themselves  on  their  escape, 
a  hook  was  baited  with  a  piece  of  pork  and 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  1Oi 

thrown  overboard,  and  in  less  than  ten  minutes 
Mr.  Shark  was  flapping  on  deck  He  was  de- 
spatched, after  a  sailor  had  cut  off  his  tail,  and 
opened.  Old  bones  of  pork,  a  shoe,  some  barrel 
hoops,  etc.,  were  found  in  the  monster's  capa- 
cious maw,  and  it  was  thought  that  he  had 
followed  the  vessel  for  some  time.  Under  the 
circumstances,  the  bathers  were  blessed  with 
extremely  good  luck. 

Apolo,  one  of  the  Navigator  group,  was  next 
reached,  where  the  huge  proportions  of  the 
natives,  and  their  skill  in  boating,  were  greatly 
admired  by  all.  The  chief  was  at  least  seven 
feet  in  height,  and  was  blessed  with  a  wife  pro- 
portionally great.  Here,  for  the  first  time  in 
his  life,  DeMilt  saw  and  partook  of  the  famed 
bread-fruit.  Leaving  the  Navigator  Islands  to 
the  east,  the  "  Galatea"  soon  reached  the  Feejee 
Isles,  the  home  of  the  man-eaters.  Boat  loads 
of  the  natives  came  out  to  the  barque,  and 
bartered  fruits,  vegetables,  etc. 

The  travellers  were  nearing  their  destination 
now,  and  expected  to  land  before  long  at  Mel- 
bourne. The  voyage  was  becoming  monoto- 
nous. Off  Cape  Howe,  they  battled  with  ad- 


102       THE  LIFE,  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

Verse  winds  for  nine  days,  at  end  of  which  time 
they  were  driven  as  far  north  as  Sidney. 
Provisions  were  running  short,  and  it  was 
agreed  to  land  at  Sidney.  The  captain  offered 
to  convey  such  as  wished  to  go  to  Melbourne, 
to  their  destination,  (their  passage  had  been 
paid  to  that  port),  or  refund  its  equivalent  in 
gold.  DeMilt  adopted  the  latter  plan,  and 
landing  at  Sidney  made  preparations  to  cross 
to  Melbourne  overland — a  distance  of  about 
seven  hundred  miles. 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER. 


103 


CHAPTER  XIII. 


Australia — Phases  of  Society — Convicts — Bushrangers — 
The  Natives — From  Sidney  to  Melbourne  overland — 
The  old  Colony  Road — Kangaroos — Emus —  Marvel- 
lous Gum  Trees — Half  way  to  Melbourne — Oven's 
Diggings — Dissatisfaction — Prospecting  News  From 
Florida. 


LIFE,  and  I  may  say  society  in  California, 
naturally  presented  many  remarkable  phases 
in  the  early  days  of  the  gold  discoveries,  and 
for  a  long  time  succeeding  them.  Volumes 
have  been  written,  innumerable  sketches,  de- 
nunciatory and  otherwise,  have  illustrated 
those  wonderful  times,  and  present  a  clear 
picture  of  the  marvellous  conglomeration  of 
men  of  all  nations,  and  the  good  and  the  evil 


104       THE  LIFE,  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

characteristics  they  possessed,  which  were 
stamped  on  the  face  of  the  land  and*  on  its 
history. 

The  English  system  of  penal  colonization 
prevailing  in  Australia  must  have  rendered  the 
social  condition  of  that  region  infinitely  worse 
than  anything  ever  known  in  California.  The 
reign  of  terror  in  California  is  distinctly  trace- 
able to  the  influx  or  deportation  of  Australian 
convicts  from  Sidney,  and  elsewhere,  to  San 
Francisco.  There  was  no  crime  in  California 
until  these  outlaws  landed  on  its  shores,  and 
the  state  of  affairs  in  the  country  whence 
they  came  will  probably  be  better  imagined  than 
described.  The  general  aspect  and  "lay  "of 
the  land  must  also  have  been  prejudical  to 
order  and  law ;  its  vastness,  its  impenetrable 
forest,  boundless  plains,  etc.,  We  read  horrible 
tales  of  its  dark  jungles,  where  even  the  dis- 
ciplined police  dared  not  venture  ;  of  desperate 
bushrangers,  who  hung  about  camp-fires  of 
travellers,  and  cut  them  off  to  a  man ;  blood- 
thirsty natives  with  spears  and  boomerangs ; 
organized  banditti  led  by  and  composed  of  con- 
victs who  had  escaped  their  chains;  fearful 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WAND ERER.  Ic>5 

scenes  of  murder  and  rapine.  There  is  nothing 
in  the  annals  of  California  that  can  compare 
with  it,  although  an  extensive  police  system 
was  in  operation,  which  the  miners  were 
heavily  taxed  to  maintain. 

The  course  taken  by  DeMilt'to  reach  the 
distant  city  of  Melbourne,  was  simple  and  not 
easily  mistaken.  He  had  merely  to  follow  the 
old  Colony  road.  After  providing  himself  with 
the  necessary  tools,  provisions,  etc.,  he  started. 
An  average  of  perhaps  ten  or  twelve  miles  per 
day  was  easily  accomplished,  and,  as  DeMilt 
had  nothing  in  particular  to  hurry  him,  he  pro- 
ceeded leisurely  and  steadily,  sometimes  on 
foot,  sometimes  in  wagons.  As  a  rule  he 
was  enabled  to  procure  a  good  stopping- 
place  at  nightfall,  in  one  of  the  many  inns  or 
stations  on  the  road,  which  seemed  to  be  situated 
about  a  day's  journey  apait.  Many  drays  were 
constantly  passing  and  repassing  on  the  road, 
laden  principally  with  wheat,  and  driven 
in  tandem,  with  two,  three,  and  four  horses. 

The  climate,  as  this  territory  is  situated  in 
the  Southern  semi-tropical  Zone,  was  tempe- 
rate. It  was  clothed  in  the  beautiful  green  of 


lo6       THE  LIFE,  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

summer  as  DeMilt  passed  through  it.  The 
most  extensive  and  best  pasturage  on  the  globe 
was  to  be  found  here,  and  the  soil  was  favor- 
ably adapted  to  the  growth  of  wheat,  and  other 
small  grains.  Many  natives  were  seen  en  route. 
They  are  of  a  peculiarly  repulsive  appearance, 
and  in  DeMilt's  estimation  contrasted  unfavor- 
with  a  Digger  Indian,  which  up  to  that  time 
he  had  supposed  the  lowest  order  of  humanity. 
Squatty,  of  low  stature,  spindle-shanked,  with 
protuberant  paunches,  straight  hair,  coarse  as 
that  of  a  horse's  tail,  naked,  with  the  exception  of 
an  apron  of  cloth  or  Kangaroo  skin,  they  are 
immeasurably  filthy,  gluttonous,  cowardly  and 
treacherous. 

Proceeding  by  leisurely  stages,  DeMilt  at 
length  arrived  at  Oven's  Diggings,  so  called  from 
the  appearance  of  the  native  huts  which  were 
found  there,  and  which  more  than  anything 
else  resembled  ovens.  He  had  started  in  company 
with  one  of  the  passengers  of  the  "  Galatea," 
named  Wormsley.  Wormsley  had  lagged  be- 
hind in  one  way  and  another,  and  the  two  had 
parted  company.  The  captain  of  the  "Galatea," 
however,  had  made  his  way  to  Oven's  Diggings. 


OF    AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  Ioy 

This  was   the  only  one,  besides  himself,  on  the 
ground  from  that  vessel. 

Five  thousand  men,  a  motley,  incongruous, 
but  picturesque  gathering,  were  delving,  like 
prairie  dogs,  into  the  surface  of  the  earth  at 
Oven's  Diggings,  Australia.  After  paying  the 
license  demanded,  one  pound  ten,  DeMilt  took 
off  his  coat,  and  grabbing  a  pick  made  the 
dirt  fly  with  his  accustomed  vigor.  He  worked 
actively  here  for  some  days.  But  it  didn't 
"  pan-out  "  to  suit  him.  Two  or  three  dollars 
a  day  was,  with  his  utmost  exertions,  all  he  could 
average.  This  was  not  the  way  he  had  done 
in  California,  and  the  result  was  that  he  soon 
became  an  inveterate  prospector.  He  was  on 
the  move  from  morning  until  night,  and  occa- 
sionally absent  for  days  at  a  time.  The  neigh- 
borhood of  Oven's  Diggings  was  once  sub- 
ject to  destructive  tornadoes,  and  much  damage 
was  done  thereby  at  different  periods.  Here, 
also,  was  to  be  seen  the  famed  gum-tree,  of 
great  height  and  enormous  diameter.  Many  of 
the  largest  were  often  found  to  be  perfectly 
hollow  inside,  a  mere  shell,  as  it  were,  which, 
though  comparatively  thin,  was  quite  sufficient 


jo8'      THE  LIFE,   TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

for  the  firm  support  of  the  tree.  These  cavities 
were  often  of  great  size,  and  were  utilized  in 
some  instances  as  granaries,  and  were  often 
lived  in. 

In  the  course  of  conversation  one  day  with  a 
young  miner,  DeMilt,  to  his  surprise,  found  that 
his  acquaintance  was  from  the  State  of  Florida. 
He  questioned  the  young  man  eagerly  as  to 
affairs  in  the  locality  in  which  remained  his 
young  sister  and  friends,  and  was  informed 
that  Port  Leon,  where  he  had  lost  his  parents 
and  left  his  sister,  had  been  washed  away  and 
destroyed  by  a  terrific  hurricane  in  the  year 
1842.  DeMilt  had  written  many  letters  to  his 
friends  in  Florida,  and,  receiving  no  reply,  had 
imagined  that  they  had  died,  had  removed,  or 
that  disaster  of  some  kind  or  other  had  over- 
taken them.  The  information  derived  from 
this  young  miner,  the  first  news  he  had  received 
from  Florida  in  thirteen  years,  confirmed  him 
in  the  sad  belief  that  his  sister  was  irretrievably 
lost  to  him. 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

Pollard,  the  Santa  Fe  Hunter  and  Indian  Fighter — The 
Sidney  Bird's  Secret — The  Mysterious  River,  and  its 
gold-laden  Bed — Preparations  for  making  Search. 

IN  the  course  of  his  stay  at  Oven's  Diggings, 
DeMilt  became  acquainted  with  a  miner  from 
the  States,  by  the  name  of  Pollard.  Tall,  ath- 
letic, straight  as  an  arrow,  hardy  and  bronzed 
by  exposure  to  the  weather,  with  a  noble  face, 
that  expressed  the  most  indomitable  energy, 
determination  and  bravery,  Pollard  was  a  fine 
specimen  of  the  typical  western  man.  Born  in 
the  State  of  Illinois,  and  removing  in  his  early 
years  across  the  plains,  Pollard  had  passed  his 
career  digging,  scouting,  and  fighting  Indians. 
He  had  spent  the  most  of  his  life  in  the  wild 
country  about  Sante  Fe.  Innumerable  conflicts 
with  desperate  men,  white  and  red,  had  left  their 


I  TO       THE  LIFE,   TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

traces  on  his  person.  His  broad  breast  was  a 
network  of  scars  from  steel  and  lead.  Many 
scars  disfigured  his  face,  but  his  clear,  dark  eye, 
still  shone  writh  the  expression  of  an  eagle's. 
He  was  a  rough,  untutored  man,  but  sound  to 
the  core;  honest,  steadfast,  like  Jim  Bludso's 
herOj  the  engineer  of  the  Prairie  Belle,  he  was, 
perhaps 

"  an  awkward  hand  in  a  row, 


But  he  never  flunked,  nor  he  never  lied — 
I  reckon  he  didn't  know  how." 

DeMilt's  acquaintance  with  Pollard  was  des- 
tined to  be  an  eventful  one  in  the  lives  of 
both  men.  More  than  once,  in  the  course  of 
their  subsequent  adventures,  was  all  of  Pol- 
lard's experience,  skill  and  bravery  called  into 
play  to  extricate  them  from  the  "  tight  places  " 
in  which  they  often  were  placed,  as  the  reader 
of  these  pages  will  see  before  he  has  finished 
their  perusal. 

Pollard  had  been  among  the  first  to  venture 
in  the  gold  diggings  of  California.  He  had 
prospected,  cooked,  dug,  washed  dirt,  etc.,  with 
varying  luck  for  some  time,  in  the  new  Eldo- 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  x  1 1 

rado,  but  had  never  made  "  his  pile,"  as  the 
saying  goes.  He  had,  in  the  course  of  his  wand- 
erings in  the  gold  country,  become  acquainted; 
to  a  certain  extent,  with  a  convict  from  Sidney, 
Australia.  This  fellow  had  been  released  on 
a  ticket-of-leave,  and,  watching  his  chances,  had 
eluded  the  strict  surveillance  put  upon  such 
criminals,  and  left  for  good,  going  to  California. 
The  hurly-burly  in  California,  where  it  seemed 
as  though  men  of  all  grades  and  stations  in  life 
had  been  shaken  up  together,  as  beans  might 
be  shaken  up  in  a  bag,  had  thrown  Pollard  and 
this  old  "  lag "  together.  At  any  rate,  one 
evening,  while  Pollard  and  his  mate  were 
counting  up  the  proceeds  of  a  hard  day's  work, 
and  complaining  some  of  their  hard  luck,  the 
dirt  did  not  "  pan  "  well,  the  convict  happened 
to  be  present.  Affecting  a  mysterious  air  he 
told  them  that  they  were  fools  to  be  wasting 
their  time  and  wearing  out  their  lives  in  that 
part  of  the  world,  when  in  other  localities  they 
might  scoop  it  up  by  the  handful,  with  scarcely 
any  labor.  When  questioned,  he  hinted  at  a 
river  in  Australia  which  he  had  seen  with  his 
own  eyes,  the  bed  of  which  was  laden  with  the 


II2       THE  LIFE,  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

precious  metal  in  the  shape  of  shining  dust  and 
nuggets.  He  stated  that  while  ranging  the 
bush  in  Australia,  for  what  purpose  the  reader 
may  readily  divine,  he,  and,  perhaps,  a  com- 
rade or  two,  had  discovered  the  treasure. 
Either  from  fear  of  capture,or  from  other,  causes, 
they  were  forced  to  leave  it  unmolested,  to  a 
great  extent,  though  it  is  not  improbable  that 
their  passage  was  paid  to  California  with  gold 
taken  from  the  stream  in  question.  Of  course,  it 
was  impossible  for  the  convicts  to  have  worked 
it  to  advantage,  or  to  have  been  benefited  by  the 
gold  after  it  was  acquired.  They  did  not  bear 
the  world  sufficient  good-will  to  communicate 
the  facts  of  the  discovery,  and  had  they  ever  in- 
formed the  officials  of  the  British  government, 
it  would  simply  have  been  a  matterof  individual 
gain  to  those  functionaries,  they  would  have 
profited  nothing.  It  is  more  than  likely  that 
the  discovery  of  this  golden  hoard,  on  the 
beds  of  that  river,  was  signalized  by  some  fear- 
ful crime.  Too  often  has  this  been  the  case. 
Far  from  the  haunts  of  man,  in  the  midst  of  a 
desert  waste  of  limitless  extent,  and  with  three  or 
four  bandits — who  stopped  at  no  crime  for  gain 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  1 X£ 

to  share  a  suddenly  acquired  treasure  of  mil- 
lions,— who  knows  what  tale  the  dark  waters 
of  that  river  might  tell,  could  it  disclose  its 
secret  as  it  murmurs  onward  to  the  sea? 

Pollard  immediately  proposed  that  the  convict 
should  return  with  them  to  Australia,  guide  them 
to  the  secret  river — and  get  the  gold.  This,  the 
convict  very  quickly  declined.  Once  out  of  the 
clutches  of  the  Melbourne  police,  he  did  not 
propose  to  revisit  Australia  for  all  the  gold  that 
was  to  be  found  there — and  so  he  stated.  He 
gave,  at  Pollard's  request,  however,  the  clearest 
idea  he  could  of  the  route  of  the  river,  its  loca- 
tion, and  the  manner  of  getting  to  it.  Pollard 
took  careful  notes  of  all  he  said,  and,  under  the 
convict's  instruction,  prepared  a  rude  chart  or 
map  of  the  adjacent  country,  and  of  the  river. 
He  manifestly  believed  the  narrative  of  the 
Sydney  bird,  and  it  was  easily  seen  that  he  was 
preparing  to  act  upon  it. 

Pollard  had  determined  to  find  the  gold,  and 
without  more  ado  the  camp  was  broken  up.  San 
Francisco  was  reached,  an  outfit  purchased, 
passages  taken  to  Australia,  and  now  we  find 
them  -at  Oven's  Diggings — digging  gold,  and 


II4       TIIE  LfFE>  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

just  becoming  acquainted  with  the  hero  of  this 
volume — towards  whom  Pollard  had  manifested 
a  strong  liking.  De  Milt's  energetic  mode  of 
life,  his  incessant  prospecting,  etc.,  had  attracted 
Pollard.  He  liked  DeMilt's  "  style  "  more  and 
more  upon  acquaintance,  and  soon  communi. 
cated  to  him  the  secret  which  he  had  become 
possessed  of  in  California. 

Among  other  things,  the  convict  had  stated 
that  the  rich  treasure  was  situated  less  than  one 
hundred  miles  from  Oven's  Diggings,  in  the 
direction  of  Cape  Howe — their  present  locality 
being  the  outpost,  as  it  were,  beyond  which 
stretched  an  unlimited  wilderness*.  Pollard's 
party  consisted  of  himself  and  two  others,  named 
Alexander  and  Marsh.  DeMilt  was  advised  of 
the  plan,  and  an  immediate  start  for  the  secret 
river  was  determined  upon.  It  was  decided  to 
have  Marsh  remain  and  take  care  of  the  camp, 
outfit,  etc.,  while  Pollard,  DeMilt,  and  Alex- 
ander, with  a  pack-horse  and  provisions,  were  to 
make  search  for  the  convict's  treasure. 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WAND  ERER. 


CHAPTER  XV. 

The  Start — Shadowed  by  the  Miners  of  Oven's  Gulch- 
Feinting — The  Wrong  Trail — Wanderings  in  the  Bush 
— Lost  in  the  Wilds  of  Australia — Kangaroos  and 
Emus — Battling  with  the  Savages. 

AFTER  it  had  been  fully  determined  to  make 
a  thorough  search  for  the  enormous  treasure — 
the  secret  of  which  had  been  somewhat  roman- 
tically imparted  to  them  by  the  Australian  con- 
vict— no  time  was  lost  in  perfecting  all  the 
arrangements  for  carrying  out  the  plan  success- 
fully. A  pack  horse  was  procured,  provisions, 
arms,  etc.,  looked  up,  and  soon  all  was  in 
readiness. 

There  is  a  constant  surveillance  kept  on  one 
another  by  the  members  of  a  mining  camp,  and 
the  actions  and  movements  of  all  are  narrowly 
scrutinized.  Considering  the  arduous  toil  and 
unceasing  drudgery  of  a  gold-miner's  life,  the 


!l6       THE  LIFE,  TRAVELS  AArD  ADVENTURES 

unending  scraping,  delving,  washing,  cooking, 
etc.,  it  is  one  of  the  most  wretched  of  all  occu- 
pations. Yet  withal  it  is  attended  by  circum- 
stances affording  a  continual  and  intense 
excitement.  The  constant  suspense — when  the 
turn  of  a  shovel  may  bring  forth  a  fortune  to 
the  lucky  individual  who  wields  it ;  after  even 
the  longest  and  most  unsatisfactory'labor ;  the 
feverish  search  for  rich  locations ;  the  never 
relinquished  hope  that  a  blow  of  the  pick,  a 
stroke  of  the  spade,  will  expose  to  daylight  the 
treasure  that  is  to  make  him  independent 
forever. 

DeMilt,  as  I  have  before  stated,  was  badly 
disgusted  with  the  outlook  at  the  diggings,  and 
was  continually  "prospecting" — looking  out  for 
a  locality  that  promised  more  profitable  em- 
ployment. He  remained  away  from  camp 
ssmetimes  for  days,  and  was  by  more  than  one 
miner  suspected  of  having  "  struck  "  something 
rich — although,  of  course,  he  said  nothing.  He 
was  watched  closely,  and  followed.  When 
the  miners,  therefore,  saw  him  and  his  mates 
preparing  to  depart,  with  tools,  provisions,  etc.t 
and  fully  armed  and  equipped  for  travelling 


OF    AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  117 

and  digging,  their  suspicions  were  fully  verified, 
their  vigilance  was  redoubled — they  watched 
them  as  a  cat  watches  a  mouse. 

Pollard  and  DeMilt  had  no  desire  to  let  the 
five  thousand  miners  of  Oven's  Diggings  into 
their  secret — at  least,  not  until  they  had  realized 
from  it ;  they  were  fully  advised  of  the  watch 
and  ward  *kept  upon  their  movements,  and 
acted  accordingly.  All  their  steps  had  been 
taken  with  the  greatest  possible  secrecy,  and 
,  when  all  was  in  readiness,  a  series  of  feints,  or 
false  starts,  were  made,  to  throw  the  men  who 
were  "  shadowing  "  them  off  the  scent.  Start- 
ing, for  instance,  in  the  early  morning,  with 
their  followers  not  far  behind,  they  would  man- 
age to  elude  the  anxious  miners  and  return  by 
a  roundabout  path  to  the  camp  from  whence 
they  started.  It  would  perhaps  be  several  hours 
before  the  "  shadows  "  could  discover  the  ruse, 
and  make  their  way  back,  arriving  hours  after 
DeMilt  and  Pollard,  hot  and  weary,  and  cursing 
the  extraordinary  precautions  and  shrewdness 
of  the  party  they  were  trailing. 

Finally,  one  night,  in  pitch  darkness,  the  little 
party  led  their  horse  out,  left  the  camp,  and 


n8       THE  LIFE,  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES  ' 

proceeding  some  miles,  quietly  awaited  daylight 
to  pursue  their  course.  Notwithstanding  the 
vagueness  of  their  directions,  and  the  uncer- 
tainty attending  their  venture,  the  men  felt 
confident  and  hopeful.  Pollard's  skill  in  wood- 
craft and  experience  as  a  mountaineer  was 
considered  ample,  not  only  to  get  out  of  any 
difficulty,  but  to  pilot  them  straight  to  the  gold. 
After  examining  again  the  data  furnished  by 
the  convict,  and  consulting  together  fully,  they 
plunged  boldly  ahead. 

It  was  not  long  before  the  last  trace  of  the 
civilized  settlement  was  left  far  in  the  rear.  Even 
Oven's  Diggings  was  on  the  outermost  frontier, 
and  with  the  exception  of  an  occasional  stock- 
man's cabin,  and  his  grazing  herds  of  sheep, 
nothing  denoting  civilized  life  was  to  be  seen, 
and  the  country  became  wilder  and  rougher 
momentarily.  Large  numbers  of  wild  animals, 
birds,  etc.,  were  observed.  The  kangaroos, 
with  enormous  leaps,  clove  through  the  dense 
undergrowth,  strange  serpents  glided  hissing 
beneath  them,  while  in  the  open  plains  stalked, 
at  express  train  speed,  the  gigantic  emu — 
exactly  the  counterpart  of  the  ostrich,  except 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  1 19 

for  the  dark  brown  of  his  plumage.  It  was 
known  that  the  natives  of  the  interior  were  in- 
solent and  often  hostile  to  travelling  parties,  but 
well  armed  with  rifles,  revolvers  and  bowie- 
knives,  the  men  had  little  to  fear  from  the  squalid 
savages,  whose  weapons  were  chiefly  clubs, 
boomerangs  and  spears.  Onward,  under  the 
glare  of  the  semi-tropical  sun,  fording  rivers, 
crossing  vast  savannahs,  penetrating  dense  for- 
ests, the  march  continued.  Several  unlocked  for 
difficulties  retarded  their  progress,  but  finally, 
after  some  days  out,  they  began  to  experience 
those  mysterious  and  uneasy  sensations  that 
men  feel  when  their  advance,  under  such  cir- 
cumstances, is  unsatisfactory.  'Something,  they 
knew  not  what,  seemed  wrong.  Miles  from 
men  of  their  own  race,  in  a  savage  wilderness, 
perhaps  they  might  irretrievably  lose  their 
way  and  perish.  It  was  a  wild-goose  chase,  at 
best,  this  hunt  for  gold,  which,  perhaps,  never 
had  an  existence,  save  in  the  imagination  of  a 
convicted  and  transported  felon — to  whose  wild 
tale  Pollard  listened  in  California — thousands 
of  miles  from  the  mysterious  river.  They  re- 
assured themselves  with  the  thought  that,  per- 


j2o       THE  LIFE,   TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

haps,  anyhow  one  route  was  as  good  as  another, 
if  they  kept  the  general  direction  accurately,  and 
plodded  onward.  Sixty,  seventy  miles — the 
supposed  distance  of  the  treasure  from  Oven's 
Diggings — were  traversed,  and  yet  no  gold.  The 
thing  looked  serious.  Pollard  assured  them 
that  his  woodcraft  was  not  at  fault ;  that  he  had 
followed  the  Sidney  bird's  directions  exactly; 
they  must  be  near  the  place.  After  wandering 
about  for  some  days,  looking  in  vain  for  the 
river,  they  began  to  consider  the  task  a  hope- 
less one,  and  to  reconcile  themselves  to  a  life  of 
some  weeks,  perhaps,  in  the  woods,  trying  to 
find  their  way  back  to  the  settlement.  They 
were  lost.  Lost  in  the  wilds  of  Australia !  To 
add  to  their  troubles,  they  were  confronted  one 
day  with  a  band  of  ten  or  fifteen  natives,  with 
their  women,  or  "  gins,"  as  they  were  called. 
The  natives  were  evidently  surprised  at  seeing 
men  with  white  faces  in  the  woods.  Perhaps 
these  were  the  first  they  had  ever  seen.  In- 
stinctively,the  Indians  began  begging  with  some 
insolence  from  the  white  men,  who  declined  to 
give  them  anything,  saying  that  they  needed  all 
their  goods  for  themselves.  They  were  lost,  and 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  i 2 1 

must  get  back  to  the  settlement.  The  natives, 
who  had  probably  never  been  subjugated, 
hereupon  became  enraged,  their  insolence 
increased,  and  they  intimated  that  unless  they 
were  liberally  supplied  they  would  help  them- 
selves to  whatever  suited  their  fancy,  and  began 
to  handle  their  weapons  ominously.  The  white 
men  began  instinctively  to  finger  the  locks  of 
their  rifles,  and  loose  their  bowies  in  their  belts. 
It  was  a  "  ground  hog  case"  with  the  whites. 
The  natives  evidently  meant  murder,  and  the 
whites  had  to  choose  between  robbery,  which 
meant  starvation  to  them,  or  a  brave  man's 
death  with  his  face  to  the  foe  in  battle.  Things 
looked  gloomy  for  that  little  band  of  palefaces, 
in  the  land  of  the  kangaroo. 


I22       THE  LIFE,  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

The  Fight  with  the  Natives — Discomfiture  of  the  Savages 
— Flight  of  the  Women — Perilous  Situation  of  the 
Party — The  Wanderings  in  the  Australian  Bush — 
Travelling  by  Night — Abandonment  of  their  Horse  and 
Pack — Settlements  at  Last — Return  to  Oven's  Dig- 
gings— The  Second  Start  for  Buddy  Rivar — Success — 
Mining  Operations — Melbourne. 

IT  was  manifest  that  the  natives  had  deter- 
mined upon  desperate  measures.  Their  coal- 
black  and  hideous  visages  worked  convulsively. 
This  was  perhaps  the  richest  booty  they  had 
ever  seen,  and  they  had  determined  to  secure 
it.  The  fingers  of  the  white  men  twitched  as 
they  handled  their  weapons  ;  they  were  equally 
determined  to  resist  spoliation  to  the  last  gasp. 

Pollard  and  DeMilt  conferred  together  hur- 
riedly. It  was  decided  to  fight  if  other  measures 
failed.  They  were  not  long  kept  in  suspense. 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  12$ 

A  stalwart  native  hurled  his  spear — without 
effect.  The  rifles  of  the  whites  exploded  simul- 
taneously, and  with  clubbed  guns  and  drawn 
revolvers  they  made  a  rush  on  their  astounded 
enemies.  In  less  time  than  I  can  write  it,  every 
male  of  the  party  was  prostrate,  stunned,  or 
killed  outright,  and  the  "gins"  ran  howling  to 
the  woods.  It  was  known  that  the  black  rascals 
were  in  strong  force  in  this  locality,  and  it  was 
certain  that  the  "  gins  "  or  women  would  soon 
reach  the  main  body,  report  the  battle,  and 
bring  a  horde  of  savages  upon  them.  So,  with- 
out waiting  to  ascertain  the  extent  of  the 
damages  inflicted  on  the  natives,  the  whites  beat 
a  hurried  retreat. 

The  situation  of  DeMilt,  Pollard,  and  Alex- 
ander was  scarcely  less  desperate  now  than 
when  they  first  met  the  savages.  They  had 
incurred  the  deadly  enmity  of  the  natives,  and 
knew  that  the  latter  would  lose  no  opportunity  . 
to  revenge  themselves.  The  whites  made  the 
utmost  haste  to  leave  the  scene  of  the  encounter 
far  behind.  When  they  reached  a  place  of  pres- 
ent safety,  the  situation  was  discussed,  and 
their  plans  for  escape  laid.  It  was  decided  to 


!24       THE  LIFE,  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

abandon  their  animal,  which  was  now 
jaded,  reserve  such  articles  as  they  could  easily 
carry,  and  travel  only  by  night.  This  was  done. 
Provisions  soon  ran  short ;  they  dared  not 
discharge  their  guns.  They  dared  not  build 
fires.  At  night,  when  they  wearily  picked  their 
way  through  the  wilderness,  the  camp-fires  of 
the  savages  could  be  seen  glimmering  in  the 
distance.  The  stock  of  provisions  which  they 
had  taken  from  the  pack-horse, when  that  animal 
was  abandoned,  was  soon  entirely  exhausted, 
and  they  were  compelled  to  live  on  roots,  nuts, 
berries  and  bird's  eggs.  Here  the  manna,  from 
a  certain  tree  of  the  country,  stood  them  in 
good  stead.  It  was  the  first  DeMilt  had  ever 
seen. 

After  five  or  six  days,  in  the  course  of  which 
they  underwent  many  terrible  hardships,  includ- 
ing another  brush  with  a  wandering  band  of 
six  or  eight  savages,  they  came  upon  a  sheep 
path,  which  led  to  a  large  ranch,  conducted  by 
white  men,  where  they  were  hospitably  received, 
and  where  they  remained  a  day  or  two  to  re- 
cover from  their  exhausting  travels.  The  main 
road  was  not  far  distant  from  this  refuge. 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  ^5 

They  reached  the  road  safely,  and  found  them- 
selves forty  or  fifty  miles  below  Oven's  Dig- 
gings and  the  point  where  they  had  left  it  on 
entering  the  woods  in  search  of  the  treasure 
which  thus  seemed  to  elude  their  quest.  This 
distance  was  traversed  on  foot,  and  Oven's 
Diggings  regained  in  two  days. 

^After  fully  recovering  from  the  effects  of 
their  late  hazardous  explorations  in  the  wilds  of 
the  Australian  bush,  it  was  determined  to  start 
again  immediately,  and  this  time  to  find  the 
treasure  or  know  the  reason  why.  On  the  first 
expedition,  Marsh  had  remained  at  the  diggings 
to  take  care  of  the  effects  of  the  absent  ones, 
etc.  It  was  now  determined  to  permanently 
leave  Oven's  Diggings,  to  pack  everything  they 
had  in  a  cart,  take  Marsh  with  them,  and  renew 
the  hunt.  Could  anything  better  illustrate  the 
daring  and  indomitable  courage  of  the  adven- 
turers ? 

The  mysterious  stream,  known  as  Buckly 
River,  was  considered  as  being  but  sixty  or 
seventy  miles  distant,  and  they  had  been  told  by 
the  Sidney  convict,  in  California,  that  a  cart 
could  reach  it  or  go  very  near  it. 


126       THE  LIFE,  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

Another  start  was  made.  This  time  there 
were  no  slips,  and  at  the  end  of  three  days  they 
drew  in  sight  of  a  river  which  fully  answered 
the  description  of  the  Sidney  bird.  After  some 
search  up  and  down  its  banks,  their  long  efforts 
were  rewarded  with  the  sight  of  what  appeared 
to  be  an  unlimited  quantity  of  gold — in  dust 
and  small  nuggets.  After  staking  off  double 
claims,  they  proceeded  to  take  out  the  precious 
stuff.  They  had,  in  the  meantime,  been  closely 
watched  and  followed — this  time  to  some  pur- 
pose— for  the  miners  had  some  way  or  other 
got  wind  of  the  affair.  In  less  than  two  days, 
5,000  men  were  on  the  banks  of  Buckly  River — 
Ovens'  Diggings  was  deserted. 

In  consequence  of  their  efforts,  and  the  virtual 
discovery  of  these  valuable  diggings,  Pollard's 
party  was  allowed  double  claims  by  the  British 
Government,  the  license  tax,  one  pound  ten  per 
month,  remitted,  and  a  gratuity  in  gold  given  to 
them.  They  at  once  went  to  work,  \\ ing- 
dammed  the  creek,  and  put  in  what  was  called 
a  Long  Tom.  After  operations,which  occupied 
twenty-eight  days,  they  took  out  a  total 
amount  in  gold  of  nearly  50,000  dollars,  to  be 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  127 

divided  among  six — the  party  originally  con- 
sisted of  seven  when  operations  were  com- 
menced, but  one  of  them  becoming  discontent- 
ed, was  bought  out.  DeMilt  was  sick  during 
the  whole  time.  Provisions  were  held  at  enor- 
mous prices,  and  rum,  which  was  the  principal 
beverage  of  the  miners,  retailed  at  five  dollars 
per  bottle. 

The  camp  on  Buckly  River  was  now  aban- 
doned. De  Milt  laid  out  a  part  of  his  treasure 
in  horses,  taking  them  to  Melbourne,  and 
realized  a  nice  profit  on  them.  DeMilt  stayed 
in  Melbourne  about  a  week,  looking  around,  and 
recuperating.  He  had  after  eleven  months  in 
Australia — after  eleven  months  of  hardship  and 
peril — amassed  a  snug  sum,  but  large  as  the 
amount  was,  it  was  not  enough  for  DeMilt.  Let 
the  next  chapter  tell  of  what  took  him,from 
Australia  and  across  the  Pacific. 


I28       THE  LIFE,  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

The  South  American  Gold  Discoveries — Emigration  to 
the  Head-waters  of  the  Amazon — The  Excitement 
worked  up  by  Interested  Parties — DeMilt  Resolves  to 
go  to  Peru — The  Good  Ship  "  Boomerang  " — Crossing 
the  Pacific — Callao. 

DURING  the  twenty-eight  days  spent  in  the 
diggings  on  Buckly  River,  extravagant  reports 
concerning  reputed  gold  discoveries  in  South 
America,  on  the  head-waters  of  the  Amazon 
had  been  disseminated  throughout  the  camp. 
Letters  from  parties  said  to  be  in  South 
America  were  sent  to  the  camp,  and  read  and 
circulated  there ;  glowing  accounts  were  re- 
hearsed by  shipowners  and  others,  and  consid- 
erable excitement  was  worked  up.  The  true 
inwardness  of  this  movement  was  afterwards 
apparent,  and  was  briefly  as  follows : — 

Large  numbers  of  ships,  and,  in  fact,  vessels 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  T2g 

of  all  kinds,  were  constantly  arriving  from  Eng- 
land laden  with  varied  merchandise  for  the 
colonies.  Tl.e  traffic  was  an  immense  and  profi- 
table one.  But  it  had  several  drawbacks  ; 
one  serious  one.  After  the  long  trip,  heavily 
laden,  around  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  and  the 
unloading  of  the  cargoes  at  Australian  ports, 
they  were  doomed  to  a  long  and  fruitless  return 
voyage — fruitless,  because  there  were  no  passen- 
gers or  freight  to  take  back.  The  ingenuity  of  the 
British  skippers  and  charter  parties  and  owners 
was  equal  to  the  occasion.  Indeed,  when  has  it 
not  been  ?  A  bright  idea  occurred  to  them.  Why 
not  get  up  a  gold  excitement  in  South  America, 
and  reap  a  rich  harvest  in  passenger  traffic 
across  the  Pacific  ?  Besides,  was  there  not 
eighty  or  ninety  miles  below  Callao,  Peru,  the 
Chincha  Islands,  with  their  rich  guano  deposits  ? 
Why  not,  after  landing  a  ship  load  of  emigrants 
at  Callao,  drop  down  to  the  Chincha  Islands, 
load  up  with  guano,  and  return  to  England,^ 
Cape  Horn,  thus  completing  the  circumnaviga- 
tion of  the  globe,  and  reaping  a  splendid  har- 
vest ?  No  sooner  said  than  done. 

The   excitement    in    regard    to    the    South 


I3o       THE  LIFE,  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

American  gold  discoveries  was  fanned  to  fever 
heat  by  the  exertions  of  these  parties.  The  re- 
sult more  than  equalled  their  anticipations. 
Hundreds  and  thousands  of  men  paid  their  pas- 
sage to  Peru.  The  skippers  and  charter  own- 
ers were  enriched.  They  were  contented. 
Hundreds  of  human  lives  were  sacrificed,  for- 
tunes wrecked,  hopes  dashed  to  earth.  But  the 
commerce  of  England  was  benefited,  and  when 
did  England  ever  look  farther  than  that  ? 

DeMilt,  as  we  have  stated,  remained  in  Mel- 
bourne, looking  around,  for  upwards  of  a 
week.  He  visited  Auckland,  New  Zealand,  and 
Hobarttown,  Van  Dieman's  Land,  etc.,  without 
finding  anything  with  which  to  employ  himself 
to  any  profit.  He  determined  to  depart  from 
Australia,  and,  very  naturally,  looked  favorably 
on  the  movement  towards  South  America. 
His  mind  was  soon  made  up.  The  great  three- 
decker  and  full-rigged  ship  "Boomerang"  rode  at 
anchor  in  the  harbor.  Capt.  Flynn,  a  full-blown 
Irishman,  with  a  weather-beaten  face,  and  close- 
cropped  side  whiskers,  was  the  commander. 
She  was  of  1,600  tons  burden,  and  was  manned 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  13  z 

by  forty  able  seamen,  exclusive  of  her  officers. 
Two  hundred  dollars  in  gold  was  the  price  of  a 
passage  from  Melbourne  to  Callao.  DeMilt 
bought  a  ticket,  had  his  baggage  sent  on  board, 
the  anchor  was  weighed,  and  the  "  Boomerang  " 
had  soon  passed  out  of  Bass'  Straight  en  route 
to  Callao.  She  was  built  in  New  Brunswick, 
and  owned  in  Dublin,  and  was  fitted  up  fairly 
well  for  one  hundred  and  twenty  passengers. 
This  was  in  March,  1854. 

The  voyage  lasted  about  forty  days.  Gales 
and  stiff  winds  prevailed  more  or  less  during  the 
entire  passage :  two  men  were  lost  after  they 
had  been  out  twenty  days.  The  ship  was  going 
at  the  rate  of  ten  or  twelve  knots  an  hour  when 
the  poor  fellows  were  ordered  aloft  to  take  in  a 
studding  sail.  While  engaged  in  this,  an  acci- 
dent occurred  through  a  faulty  rope  or  boom, 
and  they  were  precipitated  overboard.  The 
ship  was  sailing  before  the  wind,  and  while  she 
was  brought  to  as  soon  as  possible,  and  put 
back  to  the  place  where  the  seamen  were  lost, 
life-buoys  ropes,  casks,  etc.,  had  been  thrown  to 
the  unfortunate  men,  but  no  trace  of  them 
could  be  found,  and  they  were  obliged  to  con- 


132       THE  LIFE,   TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

tinue  without  them.  The  lookout  on  the  mast- 
head of  the  "  Boomerang"  soon  after  sighted  the 
mysterious  island  of  San  Lorenzo,  and  the 
stirring  cry  of  "  land  ho  !  "  rang  through  the 
vessel.  Although  the  voyage  was  one  of  the 
most  rapid  on  record  in  those  days,  the  passen- 
gers were  glad  enough  of  the  prospect  of  soon 
disembarking. 

San    Lorenzo  is  a  small   island,  about  fifteen 
English    miles    in    circumference.       It     rises 

O 

boldly  to  the  right,  as  you  head  inshore  towards 
the  fine  approach  of  the  harbor  of  Callao,  and  is 
long  and  narrow.  It  is  intersected  by  a  ridge 
of  sharp  hills,  which  extends  throughout  its 
entire  length.  The  highest  of  these  hills  is 
about  1,300  feet  above  the  sea  level.  It 
abounds  in  seal,  sea  otter,  and  swarms  of  sea 
birds.  Many  remarkable  changes  have  taken 
place  in  the  coast  of  San  Lorenzo  within  a  few 
centuries.  The  island  is  said  to  be  of  volcanic 
origin,  and  many  odd  tales  are  told  concerning 
it.  It  is  visited  principally  by  fishermen.  Just 
behind  San  Domingo  lies  the  bay  of  Callao, 
large  and  calm,  into  which  flows  the  Rimac 
river  and  other  streams.  The  beach  is  flat  and 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER,  133 

shingly,  and  marshes  abound  near  the  mouth  of 
the  Rimac.  A  small  boot-shaped  tongue  of 
land  stretches  from  the  fortress  westward  to 
San  Lorenzo.  Here  is  the  site  of  old  Callao, 
overwhelmed  by  the  sea  in  the  earthquake  of 
1 746.  Travellers  have  related  that  on  calm  days, 
with  a  clear  sky,  the  old  town  may  be  still  seen 
beneath  the  waves. 

Callao,  the  modern  town,  is  a  small,  dirty 
place,  flea-haunted,  and  built  up  with  adobe 
houses,  or  something  worse.  Many  of  them 
are  slightly  built,  with  walls  of  reeds,  plastered 
with  mud,  and  with  flat  roofs  formed  of  mats, 
also  similarly  plastered.  The  old  fortress  of 
San  Felipe,  with  its  yellow  walls  and  cheese- 
shaped  turrets,  is  a  conspicuous  object  of 
interest.  The  old  fortress  bore  the  Spanish 
flag  upon  its  massive  battlements  long  after  the 
other  dependencies  of  Spain  had  thrown  off  the 
yoke.  Here  the  Spanish  General  Rodil  threw 
himself  into  the  castle,  and  with  great  bravery 
sustained  a  siege  of  a  year  and  a  half's  duration. 
Of  4,000  persons  who  had  taken  shelter  in  the 
fortress,  less  than  200  survived  the  siege.  This 
castle  has  been  the  scene  of  many  sanguinary 


I34       THE  LIFE,  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

battles  and  revolutions  ;  many  devastating  wars 
have  swept  the  region,  many  earthquakes  have 
shaken  it  to  its  foundation. 

It  was  DeMilt's  intention,  and  the  intention 
of  the  others,  to  cross  the  Andes  forthwith,  and 
proceed  to  the  alleged  gold  fields  of  the  head- 
waters of  the  Amazon.  And  now  duly  installed 
in  the  land  of  the  Incas,  the  land  of  gold,  the 
land  of  earthquakes  and  revolutions,  behold  him 
disembarking  at  Callao,  and  preparing  to  start 
immediately  for  Lima.  Here  the  party  was  to 
organize  permanently,  procure  provisions,  mules 
and  mining  tools.  Running  parallel  with  the 
old  Gamine  real,  once  paved  and  lined  with 
trees,  but  now  utterly  neglected,  is  the  railroad. 
DeMilt  and  his  comrades  took  the  train,  and  in 
the  course  of  an  hour  arrived  at  Lima,  5 1 2  feet 
above  the  sea.  The  ascent,  with  the  little 
puffing,  wheezing  locomotives,  is  slow,  and  gives 
ample  time  for  a  leisurely  inspection  of  the  in- 
tervening country.  The  road  between  Callao 
and  Lima  traverses  a  parched  and  arid  waste, 
divided  up  by  old  mud  walls,  with  an  occasional 
dilapidated  ranche,  and  here  and  there  a  green 
field  of  alfalfa.  .  Thorough  irrigation  would 

o  o 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  I3g 

make  a  garden  of  the  whole.  This  has  been 
attempted  to  a  certain  extent,  and  the  long  lines 
of  the  azequias,  or  irrigating  canals,  are  plainly 
marked,  where  they  do  exist,  by  willows,  cerves 
and  creepers. 

Cock-fighting  is  a  wonderfully  popular 
amusement  in  Callao  ;  indeed,  so  greatly  was  it 
indulged  in  at  one  time,  that  police  regulations 
were  enacted  to  put  a  stop  to  the  sport.  These 
laws  were  ridiculed,  and  fell  still  born.  DeMilt 
attended  one  exhibition  at  Callao,  and  the 
following,  from  a  popular  writer,  describes 
the  scene  well,- — 

"  An  elderly  gentleman  with  a  rusty  mus- 
tache was  sitting  in  a  chair  scooped  out  of  a 
block  of  mahogany,  and  held  in  his  left  hand  a 
pack  of  small  printed  cards,  the  tickets  of  ad- 
mission to  the  rascally  arena.  Having  paid 
him  two  reals,  he  drew  aside  a  torn  pink  calico 
curtain,  and  with  a  gracious  entren  ustedes 
Senores,  bowed,  stroked  his  mustache,  and  re- 
sumed his  collection  of  reals.  A  second  after, 
the  Martyrs  found  themselves  in  a  windy, 
wooden  building,  which  seemed  to  them, 
for  all  the  world,  like  a  cow-shed  that  had 


I36       THE  LIFE,   TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

been  converted  into  something  resembling  a 
circus. 

"  The  place  was  crowded.  All  classes  of 
society  were  represented  there.  The  merchant 
and  the  peddler — colonels  with  blazing  epaulets 
and  half-naked  privates  —  doctors,  lawyers, 
Government  clerks,  fathers  of  families,  genteel 
gentlemen  with  ample  waistcoats  and  grey 
heads,  youths  of  eighteen  and  under — the  latter 
peppered  with  the  spiciest  pertness,  and  boiling 
all  over  with  a  maddened  avidity  tor  pesos  and 
cuartas. 

"  The  benches  of  the  theatre  rise  one  above 
another,  forming  a  square,  within  which,  on  the 
moist  clay  floor,  inclosed  by  a  slight  wooden 
barrier  eighteen  inches  high,  is  the  fatal  ring. 
In  a  nook,  to  the  right  of  the  pink  calico  cur- 
tain, stands  a  small  table,  upon  which  the  knives, 
the  twine  for  fastening  them,  the  stone  and  oil 
for  sharpening  their,  the  fine-toothed  saw  for 
cutting  the  gaffs,  and  all  the  other  exquisite 
odds  and  ends,  devised  for  the  deadly  equip- 
ment of  the  gladiators,  are  laid  out.  The 
knives  used  in  this  butchery  are  sharp  as 
lancets  and  curved  like  cimeters.  While  the 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  ^7 

lists  are  being  arranged,  and  the  armorers  are 
busy  lacing  on  the  gyves  and  weapons  of  the 
combatants,  and  many  an  ounce  of  precious 
metal  is  risked  on  their  chances  of  life  and 
death,  the  gladiators  pertinaciously  keep  crow- 
ing with  all  their  might,  and  in  the  glossiest 
feather  saucily  strut  about  the  ring  as  far  as 
their  hempen  garters  will  permit  them. 

"  It  was  remarked,  the  moment  they  entered, 
that  the  betting  was  high  and  brisk.  Gold 
pieces  changed  hands  with  dazzling  rapidity 
The  natives  are  proverbial  for  their  economy 
and  caution.  Outside  the  cock-pit  they  never 
spend  a  medio — not  so  much  as  half  a  dime — if 
they  can  help  it.  Inside  this  charmed  circle, 
they  are  the  most  prodigal  of  spendthrifts. 
One  sallow  lad  particularly  struck  them.  He 
had  neither  shoes  nor  stockings — not  so  much 
as  a  scrap  of  raw  ox-hide  to  the  sole  of  his  foot 
But -had  every  pimple  on  his  face  been  a  ruby 
— and  his  face  was  a  nursery  of  pimples — he 
could  not  have  been  more  bold  and  lavish  with 
his  purse.  It  came,  however,  to  a  crisis  with 
him.  Stretching  across  to  take  the  bet  of 
another  infatuated  sportsman  in  broadcloth 


138       THE  LIFE,  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

and  embroidered  linen,  he  staked  a  fistful  of 
gold  on  a  red  cock  of  the  most  seductive  points 
and  perfectly  irresistible  spunk.  It  was  all  he 
had  in  the  world.  There  was  a  fluttering  of 
cropped  wings,  a  snaking  of  scarlet  crests,  a 
crossfire  of  murderous  glances,  a  sudden  spring, 
a  bitter  tussle,  fuss  and  feathers,  a  pool  of 
blood,  and  the  fistful  of  gold — all  that  the 
sallow-skinned,  pimple-faced  prodigal  had  in 
the  world — was  gone !  " 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER. 


139 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

Lima — Ciudad  de  Los  Reyes — Its  Foundation  and  Early 
History — Cathedrals,  Churches,  etc. — Climate — Popu- 
lation-— Character  of  the  Inhabitants — Women  of 
Lima — The  Cholas — Preparing  to  Cross  the  Andes — 
The  Arriero — The  Start — Climbing  the  Cordillera. 

LIMA,  from  its  elevation  above  the  sea  level, 
is  in  plain  view  of  the  harbor  of  Callao.  It  is 
situated  at  the  base  of  a  series  of  high  hills. 
These  tiers  of  hills  increase  in  height  as  they 
recede  towards  the  interior,  until  above  them 
all,  and  far  inland,  arise,  pushing  above  the 
clouds,  the  tall  peaks  of  the  Nevadas,  or  snowy 
Cordilleras. 

Pizarro,  the  conqueror  of  Peru,  while  coast- 
ing about  for  a  suitable  capital  for  his  subju- 
gated dominions,  hit  upon  that  of  Lima,  and 
founded  the  city  in  the  year  1535,  on  January 


1 4o       THE  LIFE,   TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

6th,  the  day  of  the  festival  of  Epiphany.  On 
this  day  was  our  Saviour  manifested  to  the 
Magi,  or  wise  men  of  the  East,  styled  by  tradi- 
tion the  "  three  kings."  Following  the  custom 
which  then  prevailed,  i.e.,  the  naming  of  towns 
from  the  saints  or  martyrs  upon  whose  festival 
days  they  were  captured  or  founded,  Pizarro 
gave  his  future  capital  the  name  of  Ciudad  de 
Los  Reyes,  the  City  of  the  Kings.  The  arms  of 
the  city,  as  granted  by  the  King,  are  three 
golden  crowns  on  an  azure  field,  with  a  royal 
star.  Lima  was  the  seat  of  wonderful  wealth 
and  power  for  many  years,  and  also  one  of 
the  most  important  ecclesiastical  dependencies 
of  the  Catholic  Church.  Institutions  of  learn- 
ing and  gorgeous  cathedrals  were  founded. 
Here  was  born,  and  here  died,  Santa  Rosa,  the 
only  American  woman  who  ever  attained  the 
honor  of  canonization.  Pizarro  was  assassin- 
ated in  Lima,  and  his  bones  rest  in  one  of  its 
churches.  It  possesses  greater  historical  inter- 
est, perhaps,  than  any  city  founded  by  the 
Spanish  on  the  American  continent. 

With  dirty  streets,  and  narrow  sidewalks,  the 
houses  slightly  built  and  fantastically  painted, 


OF    AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  I4I 

with  throngs  of  Chalos,  wearing  greasy  ponchos 
and  dilapidated  hats ;  and  troops  of  burros, 
carrying  panniers  heavily  laden,  and  jostling 
passers-by,  perhaps  the  impressions  of  our  party 
were  not  of  the  most  pleasant  character  on 
entering  Lima  for  the  first  time.  The  city  has 
a  population  of  120,000.  There  are  eighty 
churches.  The  women  of  the  upper  classes  are 
invariably  closely  veiled  when  appearing  in 
public,  generally  disposing  of  the  mantilla,  how- 
ever, in  such  a  manner  as  to  permit  the  free 
use  of  one  eye.  It  is  a  popular  remark  that  "  it 
never  rains  in  Lima,"  which  is  comparatively 
true.  Mist  and  dews,  however,  of  sufficient 
heaviness  to  take  the  place  of  rain,  are  frequent. 
After  sufficient  sight-seeing  had  been  in- 
dulged in  by  the  party,  an  organization  was 
effected  and  a  company  formed  to  cross  the 
mountains.  Arrieros,  or  native  muleteers,  were 
hunted  up,  and  contracts  made  with  them  to 
furnish  pack  animals  and  others  for  riding. 
About  thirty  men  composed  the  party,  each 
being  provided  with  pick,  pans,  shovels,  and  fire- 
arms. All  being  in  readiness,  the  word  was 
given,  and  the  company  filed  along,  following 


142       THE  LIFE,   TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

the  course  of  the  Rimac  River  for  a  consider- 
able distance.  The  company  was  really  without 
any  particular  commander  ;  every  man  paid  the 
arriero  the  cost  of  the  mules  furnished  him  ;  it 
was  a  sort  of  independent,  go-as-you-please 
arrangement,  in  which  DeMilt  was  equally  or, 
perhaps,  more  prominent,  than  any  other  one 
man.  DeMilt's  experience  certainly  justified 
him  in  taking  the  lead,  but  this  he  declined  to 
do.  It  is  a  fact,  however,  th#t  of  the  thirty  men 
who  crossed  the  summit  of  the  Andes,  DeMilt 
and  one  other  were  the  only  men  who  actually 
followed  the  Amazon  to  its  mouth,  and  ended 
the  trip  at  Pera. 

The  train  proceeded  slowly  along,  constantly 
ascending.  The  course  of  the  Rimac  was  fol- 
lowed for  the  first  few  days.  Quantities  of 
alfalfa  and  lucerne,  in  the  valley  of  the  Rimac 
River,  furnished  sufficient  pasturage  for  the 
mules,  though  all  beyond  looked  blank  and 
desolate.  The  first  dav  ten  miles  were  travelled. 

> 

On  the  second  day's  journey  the  road  continued 
good ;  but  the  valley  gradually  narrowed,  the 
hills  becoming  higher  and  more  barren.  Llamas 
and  mules  were  met  coming  down  the  moun- 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER. 

tains.  The  llama  is  principally  used  for  con- 
veying silver  from  the  mines,  requiring  but  little 
food  and  water,  and  is  capable  of  travelling 
about  fifteen  miles  a  day,  with  a  load  of  one 
hunured  pounds.  It  is  closely  allied  to  the 
well-known  alpaca,  though  larger,  and  of  a 
greyish-brown  color.  The  llama  is  of  a  gentle 
and  inoffensive  disposition,  like  its  masters,  the 
chalos.  DeMilt,  who  was  ignorant  of  the  habits 
of  the  animal,  happened  to  annoy  one  of  them, 
when  it  suddenly  cast  a  stream  of  saliva  at  him, 
narrowly  missing  his  face.  He  avoided  them 
after  that,  but  soon  learned  that  this  was  their 
only  weapon  or  means  of  defence. 

St.  Ynes,  the  residence,  in  Spanish  times,  of 
a  justice  of  the  peace,  was  soon  reached.  Here 
the  stream  approached  the  hills  so  closely  that 
no  room  was  left  for  the  road  ;  this  was  conse- 
quently cut  out  of  the  side  of  the  hill.  It  was 
necessarily  very  narrow,  and  here  the  arrieros 
sent  out  men  in  advance  with  horns  to  warn 
approaching  trains  coming  down  the  mountain. 
Terrible  accidents  have  ensued  from  the  unex- 
pected meeting,  on  narrow  paths,  of  parties 
going  in  opposite  directions.  Bathing  and 


144       THE  LIFE>  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

other  sports,  flirting  with  the  senoras,  dancing, 
etc.,  were  indulged  in  en  route.  The  nights  in 
the  Cordillera  were  cool  and  wonderfully  beau- 
tiful, and  the  stars  sparkled  with  unequalled 
brilliancy.  The  first  bridge  over  the  Rimac 
was  crossed  safely  on  the  third  or  fourth  day. 
Numbers  of  tambos,  or  inns,  and  mining  hacien- 
das were  passed  on  the  western  slope  of  the 
Cordilleras,  and  large  numbers  of  llamas,  bear- 
ing the  ore  down  the  mountain  sides,  were  met. 
The  silver  mines  of  the  Cordillera  are  worked 
by  Indians,  who  generally  live  in  squalid  huts 
near  the  hacienda.  They  are  furnished  from  the 
storehouses,  and  are  consequently  kept  in  debt. 
As  custom  or  law  does  not  allow  any  one  to 
employ  a  peon  who  is  in  debt  to  his  patron,  the 
poor  devils  are  in  a  condition  of  almost  serfdom, 
and  can  escape  only  by  running  off  to  a  distant 
locality  where  nobody  knows  them.  The  fuel 
used  in  the  reduction  of  the  ore  is  cattle  dung. 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER. 


145 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

The  Summit  of  the  Andes — Wonderful  Storm  Scene — An 
Earthquake  above  the  Clouds — Remains  of  the  Time 
of  the  Incas — Cerro  DePasco — San  Rafael — Ambo 
Huanaco  River,  a  tribuary  of  the  Huallaga — Huanaco 
City — Break  up — Adventure  in  a  Cavern. 

IT  was  seven  or  eight  days,  in  all,  before  the 
summit  of  the  Andes,  17,000  feet  above  the  sea 
level,  was  gained.  Many  interesting  ruins  of 
buildings  of  the  times  of  the  Incas,  and  wayside 
crosses  at  regular  intervals,  were  seen.  Several 
dangerous  looking  swing  bridges  were 
crossed,  and  a  weary  ascent  of  precipitous 
roads,  cut  in  the  hard  rock,  and  creeping  along 
the  verge  of  dizzy  precipices,  was  made.  Blood- 
shot eyes,  bleeding  at  the  nose,  and  difficulty  of 
breathing,  attested  the  extreme  rarity  of  the 
atmosphere.  Those  afflicted  with  pulmonary 
disorders  seemed  least  affected. 


I46       THE  LIFE,  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

One  day,  while  at  a  great  altitude,  the  shock 
of  an  earthquake  was  felt  by  the  party.  Far 
below,  in  one  direction,  could  be  seen  the  sun 
shining  on  bright  green  slopes,  while  at  the 
same  time,  in  another  direction,  a  rainstorm, 
with  terrific  thunder  and  lightning,  poured  down 
in  wrath.  An  earthquake  around  them,  a 
thunder-storm  below  them,  a  snowstorm  over 
head,  and  far,  far  below  the  peaceful  and  smil- 
ing valley.  It  was  a  sight  not  easily  to  be 
forgotten. 

The  view  from  the  summit  was  incomparably 
grand ;  but  little  more  than  eighty  miles  lay  be- 
tween them  and  the  Pacific  Ocean,  yet  they 
had  crossed  the  "  divide  "  and  all  streams  now 
emptied  into  the  Atlantic,  many  thousands  of 
miles  distant.  The  snow-clad  peaks  of  the 
Andes  stretched  away  in  limitless  extent,  slop- 
ing away,  bench  after  bench,  into  the  distance. 
,  Commencing  the  descent,  now  on  the  eastern 
slope,  Cerro  De  Pasco — near  which  were  the 
extensive  silver  mines  of  Mr.  Jump,  an  Eng- 
lishman— was  passed.  Nelson  joined  the  party. 
DeMilt  descended  the  shaft  of  one  of  these 
mines  for  the  distance  of  half  a  mile  down  and 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  t^ 

a  mile  underground,  horizontally.  The  natives 
who  worked  these  mines  carry  two  pouches, 
suspended  one  on  each  side  of  their  bodies.  In 
one  of  them  they  store  quantities  of  leaves  from 
a  bush  found  in  the  neighborhood  ;  in  the  other 
is  stored  a  small  amount  of  soil.  A  wad  of  the 
herb,  which  looks  something  like  green  sassafras, 
dried,  is  placed  in  their  cheek,  and  a  little  lime 
inserted  by  means  of  a  stick.  None  of  this 
material  is  withdrawn,  and  with  constant  addi- 
tions the  cheek  is  soon  swelled  to  an  extrava- 
gant size.  By  some  mysterious  agency,  these 
natives,  thus  provided,  are  said  to  be  enabled  to 
go  without  food  for  days.  The  towns  of  Huan- 
aco,  San  Rafael,  and  Ambo  were  successively 
reached  and  passed.  Some  "  prospecting  "  was 
done  after  leaving  Ambo,  but  no  gold  of  any 
consequence  was  discovered.  A  small  piece 
was  found  by  DeMilt,  worth  ten  cents,  the 
largest  piece  found.  They  were  convinced  of 
the  swindle  involved  in  the  South  America 
gold  excitement.  The  city  of  Huanaco  was 
soon  reached.  The  river  of  that  name  is  a 
tributary  of  the  Huallaga  and  Amazon.  Where 
De Milt's  party  crossed  it  it  was  a  mere  brook. 


I48       THE  LIFE,  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

They  stepped  across,  dry  shod.  Its  source  is 
away  up  the  Andes,  near  to  the  summit. 

At  Huanaco,  things  looked  blue,  and  a  con- 
sultation was  had.  The  men  were  discouraged  ; 
some  of  them  were  sick.  The  contract  with 
the  arriero  who  took  them  across  the  Andes 
also  expired  here,  and  it  was  necessary  to  make 
fresh  arrangements.  A  stay  of  three  or  four 
days  was  made  at  Huanaco,  and  when  DeMilt 
was  ready  to  start  for  Perro  Blanco,  about  one 
half  of  the  party  announced  their  determination 
to  return  with  the  arriero  to  Lima.  There  was 
no  help  for  it,  and  DeMilt  pushed  onward  with 
about  fifteen  companions,  having  obtained  fresh 
mules. 

Proceeding  down  the  road  a  day  or  two,  and 
before  reaching  Chinchao,  some  of  the  mem- 
bers of  the  party  noticed  a  large  square  stone 
placed  against  the  face  of  a  bluff  on  the  road- 
side. On  approaching  and  examining  this 
stone,  they  found  that  it  concealed  the  mouth 
or  entrance  of  a  good-sized  cavern.  Removing 
the  obstruction,  the  party  entered,  and  found 
themselves  in  a  large  grotto  or 'vault  of  natural 
formation.  It  was  cool  and  roomy,  and  bore 


OF    AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  I49 

the  marks  of  recent  visitors.  Looking  about 
them,  the  men  discovered  a  large  wooden  chest, 
which  they  opened.  It  was  found  to  contain  a 
number  of  gold  and  silver  vessels— evidently  the 
property  of  some  church — and  very  valuable. 
DeMilt  and  a  man  named  Murray  were  the  only 
Catholics  of  the  party.  Here  arose  a  discus- 
sion. Some  of  the  men  proposed  to  appro- 
priate the  treasure  to  their  own  use.  This  was 
opposed  by  both  Catholics  and  by  the  cooler- 
headed  of  the  other  religions.  They  argued 
that  the  party  would  never  get  out  of  the 
country  alive,  that  the  plundering  of  this  chest 
would  be  a  sacrilegious  act  at  best,  and  pre- 
vailed upon  the  others  to  leave  the  property  un- 
molested, urging  them  to  replace  everything 
just  as  they  had  found  it.  This  was  done,  and 
wise  was  the  counsel  that  prompted  the  action. 
Scarcely  had  they  left  the  cavern  and  replaced 
the  stone,  when  a  band  of  ten  or  twelve  Cholas, 
armed  with  machetes,  etc.,  was  discovered  in  the 
immediate  neighborhood.  The  heads  of  the 
natives  were  just  seen  peering  over  the  bushes, 
regarding  them  with  threatening  looks.  Even 
now  a  difficulty  was. imminent.  DeMilt,  how- 


i^o       THE  LIFE,   TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

ever,  assured  the  Cholas  that  nothing  had  been 
disturbed,  that  he  was  a  Catholic,  and  that  his 
men  had  respected  the  church  property.  One 
or  two  Cholas  went  to  the  cavern  and  inspected 
it,  leaving  the  others  outside  with  the  whites. 

O 

Discovering  that  nothing  had  been  touched, 
they  returned,  notified  their  companions,  and 
all  shook  hands.  The  appropriating  of  that 
treasure  would  have  resulted  in  bloodshed,  and 
the  whites  would  have  been  involved  in  a  con- 
test with  the  natives  of  the  whole  territory,  from 
which,  under  the  circumstances,  they  would 
hardly  have  escaped  with  their  lives. 

In  the  course  of  one  of  the  many  fandangos 
or  balls  at  Huanaco,  DeMilt  had  danced  once 
or  twice  with  a  dark-eyed  little  Senora,  and  had 
succeeded  in  arousing  the  jealousy  of  her  cava- 
lier, which  flamed  up  like  tinder  when  he  saw 
how  readily  she  accepted  the  attentions  of  the 
young  California!!.  DeMilt  and  the  young  lady 
had  just  finished  a  dance  to  the  music  of  the 
guitar?,  and  they  had  strolled  out  arm  in  arm 
into  the  cool  air  and  moonlight  to  walk,  talk, 
and  rest  themselves,  when  the  bravo,  who  had 
crept  up  within  striking  distance,  made  a  fero- 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  jjx 

cious  lunge  at  DeMilt  with  a  dirk,  and  ran 
away.  DeMilt  evaded  the  blow,  and,  enraged 
at  the  dastard's  treachery,  drew  his  bowie  and 
started  in  hot  pursuit.  The  fellow  was  in  the 
act  of  leaping  an  adobe  wall,  when  DeMilt 
reached  him,  '  Just  as  the  fellow  arose,  DeMilt 
made  a  back-hand  sweeping  cut  at  him,  and  in- 
flicted a  flesh  wound  clear  across  the  large  and 
heaviest  part  of  his  body — nautically  known  as 
the  stern  post — the  point  of  the  bowie  probably 
penetrating  a  quarter  of  an  inch.  The  fellow 
tumbled  over  the  mud  wall,  howling  as  though 
a  legion  of  devils  had  fallen  foul  of  him.  The 
fracas  made  some  little  stir,  and  the  comman- 
dante  came  down  the  next  day  to  see  about  it. 
When  informed  of  the  facts,  he  laughed  and 
went  off,  somewhat  amused  at  the  transac- 
tion. The  rascal's  friends,  however,  seemed  dis- 
posed to  take  it  up,  and  DeMilt  was  dogged 
about  Huanaco  by  suspicious  looking  fellows, 
and  followed  nearly  to  Mes  a  Pata.  No  harm 
came  to  him,  however,  as  the  rascals  dared  not 
openly  attack  him,  and  he  kept  a  sharp  lookout 
for  them  at  night. 


THE  LIFE,  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 


CHAPTER  XX. 

Descending  the  Huallaga  Valley— Chinch ao — Mesapata — 
Death  of  one  of  the  Company — Discouragement  and 
Stampede  of  the  Men— Only  Seven  Left— DeMilt 
Encourages  the  Men — He  Determines  to  Push  on — 
Chinchnveta — Tinga  Maria— The  Head  of  Canoe  Na- 
vigation on  the  Huallaga — Attempt  to  get  Canoes — 
Treachery  of  the  Commandante — Desperate  Situation 
of  the  Party. 

THE  course  of  the  party,  after  leaving 
Huanaco,  Jay  down  the  valley  of  the  Huallaga, 
with  a  fairly  good,  although  rocky  road.  The 
Huallaga  river,  rising  high  up  in  the  Cordillera, 
near  Cerro  de  Pasco,  where  it  is  a  mere  brook, 
gathers  strength  and  volume  as  it  rushes  down- 
ward to  join  the  Amazon,  and  is  forty  or  fifty 
yards  in  width  at  Huanaco.  Trifling  quantities 
of  gold  are  found  in  the  valley.  Small  villages 
and  haciendas  are  frequently  met  in  the  valleys 


CKOiSINO     SOUTH     AMKKH  A. 


OF    AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  I53 

between  spurs  of  the  mountains,  which  extend 
down  to  the  river.  Cane  and  alfalfa  abound. 
In  a  day  or  two  the  valley  of  the  Chinchao 
river  was  entered.  At  this  point  the  cultivation 
of  the  cocoa  commences.  The  village  of 
Chinchao,  containing  a  church  and  ten  or 
twelve  houses,  was  reached.  Passing  succes- 
sively the  villages  of  Chinchao  and  Stajo,  the 
serious  illness  of  one  of  the  party,  a  man  named 
Brown,  compelled  them  to  halt  at  Mesapata 
(the  top  of  the  table)  3,000  feet  above  the  sea. 
The  poor  fellow  was  suffering  from  dysentery, 
and  was  so  weak  that  he  had  to  be  supported  on 
his  mule  by  Cholas.  He  died  the  first  night, 
and  in  the  same  bed  with  DeMilt.  A  grave 
was  dug  out  of  the  rocky  earth,  and  after  read- 
ing the  Episcopal  burial  service  over  him,  he 
was  sadly  consigned  to  his  last  resting-place. 
The  death  of  poor  Brown  had  a  deep  effect 
on  the  minds  of  the  men,  and  caused  some  of 
them  to  turn  back,  leaving  DeMilt  and  but  six 
others  to  pursue  their  perilous  journey.  DeMilt 
was  not  to  be  stampeded.  He  called  his  men 
together  and  made  them  a  short  speech.  He 
exhorted  them  to  continue,  recalled  their  peril- 


!54       THE  LIFE,   TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

cms  passage  of  the  Andes,  reminded  them  of 
their  weakened  condition,  urging  that  they  knew 
what  was  behind  them  but  not  what  was  ahead 
of  them,  and  concluded  by  telling  them  that  for 
one  he  proposed  to  make  the  journey,  if  he  had 
to  float  down  the  Amazon  on  a  log  and  alone. 
They  continued  down  the  mountain  side  by  a 
rocky  path  through  the  bushes.  The  descent 
was  rough  and  difficult.  Chihuangala,  near 
the  mouth  of  the  Chinchaveta  river,  was  reached 
the  next  day.  This  is  the  last  hacienda ; 
further  passage  for  miles  is  impossible. 

The  party  here  awaited  the  arrival  of 
Chalos  from  Tinga  Maria,*  the  head  of  canoe 
navigation  on  the  Huallaga.  The  baggage 
was  to  be  transported  to  Tinga  Maria  on  the 
backs  of  Chalos,  and  the  journey  to  that  place 
to  be  made  on  foot.  After  a  day  or  two,  the 
Chalos  arrived,  and  the  passage  to  the  embar- 
kadero  commenced  at  Chihuangala,  the  party 
subsisted  on  yuccas,  and  bananas ;  chickens, 
and  pigs  were  seen,  but  could  not  be  bought. 
They  suffered  greatly  from  mosquitos,  and 
while  here  fell  victims  to  the  terrible  vampire 
bat.  One  of  the  men  was  one  night  bled  to  such 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  155 

an  extent  by  one  of  these  creatures,  that  he 
fainted  on  rising  in  the  morning.  DeMilt's 
great  toe  was  punctured  by  a  vampire,  and  he 
lost  blood,  but  he  succeeded  in  covering  himself 
up  with  a  tolda,  or  thick  mosquito  net,  and  thus 
avoided  them  in  future. 

Reaching  Tinga  Maria,  preparations  for  con- 
tinuing the  journey  by  water  were  made.  A  day 
or  two  was  spent  in  resting  and  recuperating. 
In  the  neighborhood  of  Tinga  Maria  large 
quantities  of  Peruvian' bark  are  handled,  and  at 
Chinchayvitoc  is  a  large  hacienda,  established 
by  a  Balina  gentleman,  for  its  collection.  From 
Tinga  Maria,  the  journey  to  the  mouth  of  the 
Amazon,some  thousands  of  miles,  was  to  be  per- 
formed in  canoes.  Here,  again,  two  of  the  men 
flew  the  track,  and  struck  across  the  country, 
in  the  endeavor  to  reach  Quito,  the  capital  of 
Ecuador.  And  well  might  the  boldest  of  them 
hesitate.  Nine-tenths  of  the  South  American 
continent  was  before  them,  to  be  crossed  by 
the  river,  in  frail  canoes.  Their  route  was 
parallel  to,  and  nearly  under,  the  equator.  The 
country  was  a  wilderness,  full  of  dangerous 
animals  and  serpents,  and  yet  more  dangerous 


156       THE  LIFE,  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

men.  Very  likely,  no  white  faces  would  be 
seen  by  them.  It  was  a  task  of  herculean 
proportions.  Nelson,  Murray,  Johnson,  Arm- 
strong and  DeMilt,  however,  were  not  ordinary 
men.  They  had  started,  and  nothing  could  turn 
them  back  or  swerve  them  from  their  course. 
They  were  the  men  to  follow  the  Amazon  from 
its  source  to  its  mouth,  and  back  again,  if  neces- 
sary. 

At  Tinga  Maria,  it  seemed  for  a  time  im- 
possible to  get  canoes.  After  trying  in  vain 
for  some  days,  the  men  went  to  the  alcalde  or 
commandante,  stated  their  case  fully,  and 
asked  his  advice.  He  was  a  pompous  indi- 
vidual, monarch  of  all  he  surveyed,  and  more 
too.  In  conjunction  with  the  cure  he  ruled 
the  inhabitants  with  a  rod  of  iron.  Tinga  Maria 
was  a  typical  interior  South  American  town. 
The  cure,  by  the  ignorant  natives,  is  worshipped 
with  blind  superstition.  The  commandante 
is  his  creature,  and  obeys  him  implicitly.  From 
their  decision  in  any  case  there  is  no  appeal. 
As  Tinga  Maria,  by  virtue  of  its  position  at 
the  head  of  canoe  navigation,  wras  a  sort  of 
rendezvous  for  traders  from  the  coast,  some 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  l^ 

little  dickering  was  done,  the  commandante 
and  cure  "  being  more  arrogant  than  were  the 
same  functionaries  in  the  other  towns  through 
which  DeMilt's  party  passed. 

This  most  worshipful  rascal,the  commandante, 
after  some  delay,  finally  condescended  to  sell 
the  party  a  small,  rotten,  dilapidated  canoe  for 
thirty  dollars.  It  was  about  large  enough  to 
carry  their  baggage.  One  man  could  not  have 
floated  in  it  after  it  was  loaded  with  their 
dunnage.  From  the  suspicious  actions  of 
the  commandante,  DeMilt  was  not  long  in 
discovering  that  he  was  meditating  foul 
treachery.  For  some  reason  they  had  deter- 
mined to  prevent  the  whites  from  passing 
through  the  country,  and  meant  to  detain  them 
there  at  their  mercy,  or,  by  furnishing  them  with 
rotten  canoes,  allow  them  to  perish  in  the  river, 
among  perilous  rapids  and  other  dangers.  The 
boat  of  the  alcalde  was  of  course  a  fine 
one.  His  excellency  was  proprietor  of  the 
finest  boat  in  the  town,  which  was  no  more 
than  was  natural,  taking  his  importance  into 
consideration. 

The  commandante  afterwards  found  to  his 


158       THE  LIFE,  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

cost,  that  free  white  men  and  Americans  from 
the  States  were  not  to  be  bullyragged  and 
trifled  with  beyond  a  certain  point.  He  worked 
it  up  to  that  "  point,"  and  succeeded  in  getting 
oar  friends  wrought  up  to  a  pitch  of  despera- 
tion that  made  terribly  dangerous  men  of  them. 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER. 


CHAPTER   XXI. 

The  Embarkadero — The  Commandante's  Canoe — DeMilt 
determined  to  take  it — The  Night  Attempt — Launching 
the  Canoe — The  Rapids — Successful  shooting  of  the 
Rapids — Chased  by  Natives — The  Battle  on  the  River 
— Discomfiture  of  the  Savages — The  Avant  Courier — 
Corrupting  a  Commandante. 

BEFORE  proceeding  to  a  narration  of  the 
stirring  events  in  which  DeMilt  and  his  com- 
rades were  concerned,  a  brief  sketch  of 
Tingo  Maria  may  not  be  uninteresting.  The 
word  Tingo  is  said  to  be  an  Indian  word,  signi- 
fying "the  meeting  of  the  rivers."  The  junction 
of  the  Monzon  and  the  Huallaga  is  just  above 
the  town.  The  Huallaga  River  is  about  one 
hundred  yards  wide,  and  quite  deep  at  the 
Pueblo  of  San  Antonio  del  Tingo  Maria,  a 
pretty  village  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river.  It 


160       THE  LIFE,  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

is  the  home  of  about  fifty  able-bodied  men,  and 
has  an  entire  population  of  perhaps  two  hun- 
dred, including  every  soul  within  a  mile  or  two. 
It  is  nearly  3,000  feet  above  the  sea  level,  and  is 
situated  on  a  sort  of  plain.  Traders  visit  the 
place  occasionally  with  cotton  goods,  knives, 
etc.,  which  they  exchange  for  tobacco,  rice,  straw 
hats,  animals,  and  birds.  Pumas,  or  American 
tigers,  deer,  wild  hogs,  monkeys,  parrots,  ducks, 
turkeys,  and  all  varieties  of  snakes  are  found  in 
great  numbers.  Vampires,  or  spectre  bats,  are 
plentiful.  The  Indians  are  of  a  tribe  known  as 
Cholas.  They  use  bows  and  arrows,  and 
blow-guns,  with  poisoned  darts. 

The  outlook  of  DeMilt  and  his  friends  was 
decidedly  bad.  It  seemed  as  though  they  would 
be  compelled  to  return  to  Lima  or  end  their 
days  in  the  pueblo,  as  vassals  of  the  pair  who 
ruled  it — the  cure  and  the  commandante — and, 
like  the  suffering  natives,  contribute  tithes  of 
their  possessions  to  the  maintenance  of  these 
worthies.  The  fine  canoe  of  the  commandante, 
hollowed  out  of  an  enormous  log,  was  sheltered 
under  a  thatched  roof,  at  some  distance  from 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  161 

the  river,  and  the  men  cast  longing  glances  at 
it,  and  tried  in  vain  to  purchase  the  vice-regal 
dug-out.  Necessity,  however,  knows  no  law, 
neither  does  it  know  commandantes  of  one- 
horse  pueblos  on  the  Huallaga.  They  deter- 
mined to  defy  the  authorities,  and  take  the  boat. 
DeMilt's  companions  were  all  experienced  river 
men,  and  two  of  them  had  rafted  lumber  for 
years  on  the  St.  Lawrence  River,  in  the  cold 
latitudes.  To  them  was  intrusted  the  task  of 
taking  the  commandante's  boat.  They  were 
to  launch  it,  and,  paddling  across  the  river  to 
where  DeMilt  stood  guarding  the  luggage,  they 
would  embark  and  leave  the  hated  locality. 
Dangerous  rapids  roared  below  them,  three  or 
four  hundred  yards  down,  which  it  was  neces- 
sary they  should  shoot  in  the  night.  This  was 
something  which  as  yet  no  living  man  had 
accomplished ;  but  after  closely  inspecting 
them,  and  cross-questioning  the  natives  in  re- 
gard to  their  difficulties,  the  whites  entertained 
strong  hopes  of  making  the  pass  successfully. 
A  great  deal  of  caution  and  skill  were  required 
to  seize  the  boat.  For  while  the  alcalde's 
house  and  that  of  the  cure"  were  some  distance 


1 62       THE  LIFE,  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

from  the  houses  of  the  common  herd,  as  is  the 
custom  in  that  country,  and  the  thatched  boat- 
house  was  also  somewhat  isolated,  many  peons 
slept  and  hid  around  in  close  vicinity. 

However,  one  dark  night,  when  all  was  quiet 
and  the  moon  had  gone  down,  the  men  crossed 
the  Huallaga,  and  entered  upon  the  task  as- 
signed them.  Stealing  cautiously  to  the  boat- 
house,  and  exerting  the  utmost  care  not  to 
disturb  the  town  gentry,  they  laid  hands  on  the 
canoe,  and  after  herculean  efforts  to  get  it  to 
the  water's  edge,  Fortune  seemed  to  smile  on 
the  bold  depredators.  They  launched  the 
vessel,  and  paddled  over  to  where  stood  DeMilt 
awaiting  them  in  breathless  suspense.  In  less 
time  than  I  can  put  the  words  on  paper,  their 
effects  were  transferred  from  the  shore  to  the 
dug-out,  and  they  had  rushed  off  into  the  cur- 
rent. With  wonderful  good  luck  the  crew 
managed  to  shoot  the  hitherto  unattempted 
rapids  in  the  darkness,  and  floated  in  the  quiet 
waters  below  with  a  boat  half  full  of  water. 
This  was  quickly  baled  out,  and  they  had  but 
fairly  started,  when  they  saw  torchlights  gleam- 
ing up  stream,  and  heard  the  alarm  given.  The 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  163 

natives  had  discovered  the  theft  of  the  boat, 
and  were  in  hot  pursuit.  Probably  forty  or 
fifty  jumped  into  canoes,  and  emboldened  by 
the  success  of  the  whites  in  shooting  the  rapids, 
they  boldly  headed  for  them.  It  is  likely  that 
some  canoes  were  capsized,  and  some  of  the 
black  pursuers  were  drowned.  At  any  rate, 
three  or  four  canoes,  with  their  loads,  ran  the 
rapids  safely,  and  about  sunrise  they  rowed  in 
upon  the  whites,  who  motioned  to  them,  and 
halloed  to  them,  in  Spanish,  to  approach  no 
nearer.  The  pop-guns  of  the  natives  were  dis- 
charged, but  the  venomous  darts  fell  short.  As 
they  approached  within  gunshot,  the  whites 
discharged  a  volley  at  them,  and  the  howls  of 
the  savages  and  their  sudden  halt  proved  the 
accuracy  of  their  aim.  The  whites  were  bound 
not  to  take  the  lives  of  the  natives  save  in 
the  strictest  self-defence.  After  a  volley  on  the 
part  of  the  natives,  and  another  volley  from  the 
fleeing  canoe,  the  fight  was  stopped,  and  the 
pursuers  put  back  for  repairs. 

Our  friends  at  this  time,  deeming  that  they 
had  well  earned  a  short  repose  after  their  pad- 
dling and  fighting,  put  in  at  a  small  island, 


164       1*HE  LIFE,  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

where  they  prepared  food  and  rested  for  some 
hours.  While  on  the  island,  they  noticed  a 
black  rascal  descending  the  river,  paddling  at  a 
rapid  rate,  in  a  small  canoe,  far  out  in  the  river. 
They  were  at  a  loss  to  explain  his  presence 
there,  which  was  a  very  lucky  thing  for  his 
peace.  Had  they  discovered  the  object  of  his 
mission,  his  life  in  all  probability  would  have 
been  forfeited.  It  was  not  long,  however,  before 
they  found  out  for  what  the  savage  descended 
the  river. 

The  party  finally  left  the  little  island,  and 
proceeded  down  the  river  at  a  leisurely  pace. 
When,  after  some  days,  they  arrived  at  the 
town  of  Lapoona,  they  found  the  comm andante 
had  assembled  a  force  to  make  prisoners  of 
them.  The  native  whom  they  had  seen  pad- 
dling down  the  river  had  been  sent  by  the  ras- 
cally alcalde  of  Tinga  Maria  to  notify  the  com- 
mandante  of  Lapoona  to  apprehend  the  party, 
and  send  them  back  to  him  with  the  boat  which 
they  had  taken.  DeMilt  gave  this  personage  a 
"  piece  of  his  mind,"  as  the  saying  goes.  He 
was  fully  aroused,  and  ready  to  dare  or  do  any- 
thing. He  told  the  commandante  of  their  ad- 


OF    AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  165 

ventures,  and  gave  a  full  account  of  themselves. 
As  this  individual  seemed  disposed  to  arrange 
the  matter  by  a  compromise,  they  slipped  a 
twenty  dollar  gold  piece  into  his  hand,  and 
promised  to  leave  him  the  boat.  This  was 
agreed  to,  and  after  hiring  another  boat,  chalos, 
and  provisions,  they  were  allowed  to  depart 
without  molestation. 


X66       THE  LIFE,   TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 


CHAPTER  XXII. 

The  Journey  Down  the  Huallaga — Salt  Mountains  of  the 
Pongo  of  Chasuta — The  Mala  Paso — Monkey  Meat — 
El  Alma  Perdido — Panama  Hats — Villages  and  Com- 
mandantes — The  Mouth  of  the  Huallaga — Padre  of 
Laguna. 

AFTER  procuring  the  proper  passports,  hiring 
chalos,  etc.,  the  party  proceeded  down  stream, 
approaching  the  Pongo  of  Chasuta,  up  to 
which  point  steamers  have  gone.  The  place  is 
nearly  4,000  miles  from  the  ocean.  It  was  soon 
discovered  that  the  courier  of  the  rascally 
alcalde  of  Tinga  Maria  had  notified  the 
authorities  of  all  the  river  towns  of  the  approach 
of  the  party.  They  were  often  challenged  by 
the  alcaldes  of  these  towns,  but  upon  showing 
their  passports  and  telling  their  story  were  per- 
mitted to  proceed.  The  display  of  dignity  by 
these  functionaries  was  frequently  very  ridicu- 
lous ;  they  exacted  the  most  ceremonious  treat- 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  ^ 

ment,  and  expected  that  all  deference  be  shown 
them.  In  the  absence  of  this,  they  were  sour 
and  unaccommodating.  At  the  same  time, 
Lieut.  Herndon,  in  his  work  on  the  Amazon, 
states  they  would  listen  readily  to  a  proposition 
to  act  for  him  in  the  capacity  of  a  servant. 
Great  are  the  Alcaldes  of  the  South  American 
villages  ! 

In  about  six  or  eight  hours  from  Lapuna,  the 
boats  neared  the  Pongo  de  Sal,  or  rapids  of 
Chasuta,  with  their  wonderful  mountains  of  salt. 
Monkey  meat  was  easily  procured,  and  was 
largely  indulged  in  by  the  party.  Some  of  the 
varieties  are  held  by  the  natives  as  great  delica- 
cies. On  one  occasion,  one  of  the  party  having 
shot  a  monkey  of  the  size  of  a  house  cat,  cut  off 
its  head,  which  was  of  remarkable  size,  and  re- 
solved upon  a  "  bait  "  of  monkey  brains.  The 
idea  was  a  rare  one,  and  the  manner  in  which  he 
accomplished  it  a  decided  novelty.  The  chalos, 
having  built  a  fire  on  the  spot  selected  for  the 
camp  that  night,  the  man  with  the  monkey's 
head  looked  around  for  something  in  which  to 
cook  the  brains.  Finding  nothing  to  suit  his 
purpose,  he  removed  the  top  of  the  skull,  and 


1 68       THE  LIFE,  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

placed  brains,  skull  and  all  on  the  hot  coals. 
The  flesh  of  the  animal's  face  shrivelled  in  the 
heat,  which  caused  it  to  assume  a  diabolical 
grin.  As  soon  as  the  brains  were  considered 
well  cooked,  our  friend  coolly  proceeded  to 
devour  them  with  manifest  gusto,  the  poor 
monkey,  in  the  meantime,  grinning  horribly  at 
him.  It  was  quite  a  feat  in  its  way,  and  pro- 
voked divers  sensations  in  the  minds  of  the 
witnesses  thereof.  Hungry  men  are  not  partic- 
ular on  the  banks  of  the  Huallaga.  Several 
pumas  were  killed  by  the  party. 

In  this  locality  was  heard  frequently  the 
mournful  note  of  the  bird  known  as  El  Alma 
Perdido,  the  last  soul.  The  story  of  this  bird, 
as  told  by  the  naked  chalos,  over  the  camp-fires 
at  night,  is  somewhat  as  follows : 

A  peon  and  his  wife  left  the  pueblo  one 
morning  to  work  their  little  yucca  and  plantain 
patches,  carrying  their  child,  an  infant,  with 
them.  The  woman  went  to  the  spring  to  get 
water,  leaving  the  child  with  its  father,  and  cau- 
tioning him  to  take  the  greatest  care  of  it.  Of 
course  the  peon  sent  his  wife  for  the  water; 
that  was  perfectly  natural,  On  arriving  at  the 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  169 

spring  the  woman  found  it  dried  up,  and  went 
in  search  of  another  farther  on.  The  husband 
became  uneasy  at  her  long  absence,  and  started 
off  to  find  her,  leaving  the  child  behind.  It 
perhaps  never  occurred  to  him  to  carry  the 
child  with  him.  When  they  returned  the  child 
was  nowhere  to  be  found.  They  at  once  began 
search  for  the  infant.  To  their  repeated  cries 
they  could  obtain  no  answer,  save  the  peculiar 
wailing  note  of  the  bird,  which,  to  their  excited 
fancy,  sounded:  "pa-pa,  ma-ma,"  the  Indian 
name  of  the  bird  to  this  day. 

The  Pongo  of  Chasuta  was  the  next  serious 
obstacle  encountered.  The  river  here  narrows 
to  forty  yards,  is  thirty  feet  deep  and  of  great 
velocity,  and  abounds  in  Malos  pasus.  It  was 
with  great  difficulty  that  the  canoes  were  safely 
tided  over  the  rapids ;  frequently,  ropes  had  to 
be  used  and  the  canoes  lowered  stern  foremost 
over  the  most  dangerous  portions.  The  most 
remarkable  feature  of  this  locality  is  the  pres- 
ence of  enormous  mountains  of  salt,  rock  salt 
hard  and  white,  sometimes  mingled  with  a  red- 
dish earth.  These  mountains  rise  directly 
from  the  river,  sometimes  to  a  great  altitude. 


170       THE  LIFE,   TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

There  is  salt  here  in  sufficient  quantity  to  load 
the  fleets  of  the  world.  Every  year,  about 
August,  the  Indians  of  the  Moranon  and 
Ucayali  make  voyages  up  the  Huallaga  for 
supplies  of  salt.  They  travel  very  slowly,  hunt 
and  fish,  and  rob  banana  patches  on  the  way. 

Canoes  and  chalos  were  procured  at  intervals, 
from  town  to  town,  as  it  were,  though  only 
after  many  annoyances,  and  by  slow  stages,  the 
journey  to  the  mouth  of  the  Huallaga  pro- 
gressed. The  distance  by  water  from  Tinga 
Maria  to  Chasuta  is  three  hundred  miles.  The 
fall  is  over  four  feet  to  the  mile.  Seventy- 
four  hours  is  considered  the  average  length  of 
time  in  which  to  make  the  descent.  From 
Chasuta  to  the  mouth  of  the  Huallaga  is  two 
hundred  and  eighty  odd  miles,  taking  nearly 
the  same  length  of  time  for  its  descent. 

The  party  were  now  entering  the  lake 
country,  and  from  this  point  to  the  mouth  of 
the  Amazon,  lakes  of  various  sizes  and  shapes, 
and  at  irregular  distances,  are  to  be  seen.  They 
are  connected  by  channels  with  the  river.  Im- 
mense flocks  of  water-fowl  abound,  and  the 
natives  imagine  that  these  lakes,  or  many  of 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  j  7  x 

them,  are  guarded  by  huge  diabolical  ser- 
pents, concerning  which  many  strange  tra- 
ditions are  handed  down. 

Passing  the  pueblos  of  Yurimaguas  and 
Santa  Cruz,  Laguna,  twenty  miles  from  the 
river  mouth,  is  reached.  It  is  the  principal 
town  of  the  district  and  the  residence  of  the 
governor.  It  is  a  mile  or  more  from  the  river. 
Arriving  at  this  point  the  party  landed,  called 
upon  the  governor,  a  priest,  and  were  very 
kindly  received,  and  well  fed.  Bananas,  cooked 
in  all  the  styles  of  the  country,  yuccas,  syrup, 
and  an  excellent  cup  of  coffee  were  provided. 
The  natives  are  excellent  boatmen,  but  addicted 
to  drink.  The  productions  of  the  vicinity  are 
sarsaparilla,  copaiba,  cupal,  etc.,  Laguna  and 
parish  contain  perhaps  a  thousand  inhabitants. 

Refreshed  by  their  kind  treatment  at  Laguna, 
the  party  waited  for  boats,  procured  them,  and 
started  with  stout  hearts  down  the  Huallaga. 


THE  LIFE,  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 


CHAPTER  XXIII. 

Mouth  of  the  Huallaga — The  Maranon  River — Encounter 
with  a  Terrible  Snake — Fright  of  the  Chalos — A 
Perilous  Situation — Death  of  the  Reptile — Down  the 
Maranon  —  Resemblance  to  the  Mississippi  —  The 
Ucayali  River — The  Amazon  Proper. 

TWENTY  miles  below  Laguna,  the  Huallaga 
River — which  DeMilt  and  his  companions  had 
now  descended  for  over  six  hundred  miles — 
empties  into  the  Maranon.  It  was  a  long,  tedi- 
ous journey,  a  journey  full  of  hardships  priva- 
tions and  dangers.  They  were  not  sorry  to  leave 
the  Huallaga,  which  had  been  both  a  friend  and 
an  enemy  to  them  ;  and  they  were  rejoiced  at 
reaching  its  mouth;  an  important  stepping 
stone  in  their  route  across  the  continent  was 
gained.  The  most  difficult  portion  of  this  jour- 
ney of  5,000  miles  had  been  accomplished. 

DeMilt  and  those  of  his  comrades  who  were 


ENCOITNTKU     WITH     A     SNAKK 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  173 

familiar  with  the  appearance  of  the  Mississippi, 
were  at  once  struck  with  the  similarity  between 
that  noble  stream  and  the  river  upon  which 
they  were  now  entering  for  the  first  time.  Both 
rivers  are  broad,  dark,  turbulent,  rapid.  Both 
are  obstructed  by  numerous  islands.  The  sim- 
ilarity, save  in  the  foliage  of  the  banks,  is  com- 
mented upon  by  all  travellers. 

In  the  neighborhood  of  the  mouth  of  the 
Huallaga,  and,  in  fact,  just  after  they  had  left 
Laguna,  a  terrible  adventure  with  a  snake  was 
in  store  for  DeMilt.  Seeing  a  clear  space  on 
the  bank,  and  an  eddy  where  they  could  land, 
they  put  in,  one  clear  morning,  to  cook  break- 
fast. The  chalos  fastened  the  canoe  to  a  tree, 
and  started  to  build  a  fire.  Three  of  the  party 
went  out  to  hunt  moquoketos,  a  monkey  about 
the  size  of  a  squirrel,  and  highly  thought  of  for 
food,  leaving  DeMilt  behind  in  charge  of  the 
boat.  He  was  in  the  stern  of  the  boat,  fishing. 
A  large  tree,  about  twenty  yards  up  stream,  had 
been  undermined  by  the  current,  and  had  fallen 
over  into  the  ri^er.  It  still  clung  to  the  bank 
by  the  roots,  although  the  branches  and  part 
of  the  trunk  were  in  the  stream,  leaving  a  few 


174       THE  LIFE,  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

straggling  branches  and  limbs,  with  the  main 
trunk,  above  the  surface  of  the  water.  Some 
slight  noise  attracted  DeMilt's  attention,  and 
looking  around  to  ascertain  the  cause,  he  was 
horrified  to  see  a  monstrous  snake  on  the  fallen 
tree,  evidently  just  coming  out  of  the  water,  and 
within  a  few  yards  of  where  our  hero  was 
seated.  An  extract  from  DeMilt's  journal  de- 
scribes the  situation  graphically, — 

"  I  sung  out  to  the  natives  that  there  was  a 
snake  on  the  tree.  They  made  a  sign  with 
their  hands,  as  if  greatly  excited,  and  then  ran 
for  the  boat  and  wanted  to  jump  in  and  make 
out  for  the  stream.  But  I  would  not  let  them, 
for  my  chums  were  in  the  woods,  and  I  was 
determined  not  to  leave  the  place.  I  told  our 
guides  if  they  dared  to  leave  the  shore  I  would 
shoot,  and  that  I  intended  killing  the  snake. 
They  looked  on  me  with  astonishment  and 
said  it  would  kill  me  and  all  the  crowd,  but  we 
could  never  kill  it.  I  got  out  of  the  boat  and 
made  them  stand  where  they  had  been  cooking, 
and  told  them  I  would  shoot  if  they  dared  to 
move.  I  then  went  to  a  small  tree,  about  eighteen 
inches  in  diameter,  ten  or  twelve  feet  from  the 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  x  7  5 

tree  on  which  lay  the  snake.  I  had  my  gun, 
pistol,  and  also  a  bowie  knife  with  me.  I 
had  both  snake  and  guides  to  watch  ;  I  was 
afraid  the  men  would  attempt  to  leave  with  the 
boat,  and  I  would  be  at  the  mercy  of  the  snake 
and  my  partners  with  me.  I  crawled  up  be- 
hind this  small  tree  and-  took  aim  at  the  snake. 
By  this  time  the  creature  had  seen  me  and  his 
head  was  then  about  twenty-five  feet  off. 
I  was  wearing  a  small  Panama  hat  at  the  time 
and  I  Qould  feel  it  rise  up  off  my  head  from 
the  fright.  I  levelled  at  him  and  he  had 
crawled  by  that  time  at  least  five  feet  nearer, 
part  of  his  body  still  coiled  around  the  trunk 
of  the  tree.  He  seemed  by  instinct  to  know  I 
was  trying  to  get  at  him.  I  fired  my  first  shot 
and  my  cap  snapped,  but  I  did  not  lose  com- 
mand over  myself.  I  put  on  another  cap,  and 
even  stopped  to  pick  the  tube  of  the  gun  with  a 
pin.  By  that  time  he  was  within  fifteen  feet  of 
me  :  he  had  raised  his  head  to  about  four  feet 
from  the  trunk  of  the  tree,  his  mouth  wide  open 
and  a  tongue  hung  out  at  least  three  to  four 
inches  long ;  and  I  could  see  his  fangs,  and  his 
eyes  snap.  I  took  aim  down  his  throat,  and  my 


jy6       THE  LIFE,  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

shot  carried  %off  the  top  of  his  head.  He 
dropped  on  the  roots  of  the  tree.  The  natives 
ran  to  me  and  fell  on  their  knees.  They 
said  it  was  one  of  the  most  venomous  snakes  of 
the  country,  and  a  reward  of  $50  was  given  to 
those  who  killed  them.  We  measured  it,  and 
it  was  sixteen  feet,  seven  inches-  long,  tapered 
at  both  ends.  Its  head  was  large  and  flat ;  the 
color  was  a  brownish-red,  checkered  gray  and 
black,  and  it  was  beautiful  to  look  at.  I  gave 
it  to  the  natives  and  they  took  the  hide  off 
and  said  they  would  get  the  reward  for  it  on 
their  return.  In  the  meantime  our  men  came 
in  and  heard  the  snake  story  and  we  all  con- 
gratulated each  other.  They  brought  back 
with  them  several  small  monkeys,  ducks,  and 
one  or  two  good  sized  monkeys.  We  cooked 
our  provisions  for  the  twenty-four  hours  and 
started  out,  for  we  never  landed  but  once  a  day. 
We  had  game  of  some  kind  almost  every  day. 
We  never  slept  ashore,  for  we  were  afraid  of 
both  natives  and  beasts,so  we  drifted  along  night 
and  day,  unless  we  struck  some  sand-bar  or 
island,  and  then  we  would  put  in  and  stop  over 
night." 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  177 

Under  the  circumstances,  with  the  treacher- 
ous chalos  ready  to  desert  with  the  boat, 
ready  to  leave  DeMilt  and  his  comrades  to 
perish  in  the  jungle  or  be  devoured  by  the 
serpent,  the  killing  of  this  monster  was  a  splen- 
did exhibition  of  cool-headed  bravery  and  nerve. 
That  he  or  any  of  the  party  escaped  a  terrible 
death  by  the  serpent  was  a  miracle  of  luck. 
The  snake  had  probably  been  watching  them 
from  a  distance,  and  was  coming  up  to  make  a 
square  meal  of  the  party,  and  their  outfit. 

Fish  and  game  were  plentiful  as  the  canoe 
glided  down  the  Maranon,  towards  Nauta. 
Passing  the  Parblos  of  Maranos  and  San  Regis, 
they  arrived  at  Nauta,  at  the  junction  of  the 
Maranon  and  Ucayali  rivers,  a  distance  of  two 
hundred  and  twelve  miles  from  the  mouth  of 
the  Huallaga.  At  this  place  commences  the 
Amazon  proper,  and  although  it  is  designated 
by  different  names  for  many  miles  below  this, 
it  is  the  same  stream,  and  I  shall  henceforth  use 
the  term  Amazon  to  avoid  confusion. 


178       THE  LIFE,  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 

The  Situation  at  Nauta — Attempt  at  Steam  Navigation  by 
the  Peruvians— The  "  Huallaga  "  and  "  Tirado  "—The 
Fourth  of  July — Festivities — Gen.  Ortez — Getting 
Ready  to  Leave  Nauta — Formation  of  a  New  Party — 
The  General's  Boat  —  Tabatinga  —  The  Brazilian 
Frontier. 

DRAWING  near  Nauta,  which  is  a  sort  of  fish- 
ing village,  of  several  hundred  inhabitants,  our 
party  saw  white  faces  on  the  shore,  and  were 
greeted  with  a  hearty  hurrah,  which  there  was 
no  mistaking.  Those  lusty  cheers  came  from 
none  but  American  throats,  and  when  they 
landed  their  hands  were  grasped  by  those  of 
about  a  dozen  hearty  fellows  whose  home  was 
the  United  States.  How  these  men  happened 
to  be  here  will  be  soon  made  known. 

The  Peruvian  Government  had  been  trying, 
for  some  years  previous  to  DeMilt's  visit,  to 
establish  steam  navigation  on  the  Upper 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  179 

Amazon.  Several  companies  had  been  formed 
and  chartered,  but  they  seemed  to  lack  the 
element  of  success,  and  one  after  another  they 
collapsed.  The  government,  however,  finally 
contracted  with  a  Dr.  Whittemore,  of  Lima,  for 
the  construction  of  two  steamers,  to  be  built  at 
New  York,  transported  to  Para  in  sections,  and 
operated  in  connection  with  the  steamers  of 
Lower  Amazon  companies.  The  steamers, 
known  as  the  "  Huallaga  "  and  "  Tirado,"  were 
built  of  Georgia  pine;  one  was  90  feet  in 
length,  the  other  1 10  feet.  They  were  put 
together  at  Para,  and  ascended  the  river  to 
Nauta. 

The  attempt  was  a  complete  failure.  The 
"Huallaga,"  after  reaching  Nauta,  never  turned  a 
paddle  wheel.  The  "  Tirado"  made  two  or  three 
trips  up  the  Maranon  and  Huallaga  rivers, 
ascending  the  latter  as  far  as  the  Pongo  of 
Chasuta.  When  DeMilt  reached  Nauta,  one  of 
the  ftrst  objects  he  saw  was  the  "Huallaga"  tied 
up  at  the  bank.  At  that  time  it  was  expected 
the  "Huallaga"  would  soon  descend  the  Amazon 
to  Para.  The  Americans  at  Nauta  had  accom- 
panied the  "  Huallaga"  and  "  Tirado"  to  Nauta* 


180       THE  LIFE,   TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

where  the  boats  were  to  be  turned  over  to  the 
Peruvian  Government.  The  contractors  were 
now  awaiting  their  acceptance  by  the  authori- 
ties, and  the  payment  of  the  contract  prices  of 
the  steamers.  The  Americans  had  been  em- 
ployed to  man  the  vessels,  and  were  awaiting  at 
Nauta  the  result  of  the  negotiations.  Money 
in  various  amounts  was  due  the  men,  in  payment 
of  their  services.  This  the  men  were  now  im- 
patiently awaiting. 

DeMilt  and  his  companions  were  eagerly 
welcomed  by  the  steamboat-men.  They  were 
invited  to  go  on  board  the  "Huallaga,"and  make 
it  their  headquarters  during  their  stay  in  Nauta, 
which  was  done.  In  a  day  or  two  a  party  from 
the  Upper  Maranon  came  to  Nauta  in  their 
canoes.  There  were  several  Americans  in  the 
party.  Altogether,  there  were  now  at 
Nauta  nearly  twenty  men  from  the  States. 
DeMilt  expected  to  go  down  to  Para  in  the 
"  Huallaga,"  and  determined  to  wait  patiently 
until  the  time  came  for  her  departure. 

The  little  party  of  Americans  was  in  good 
health  and  spirits,  and  whiled  away  the  time  at 
Nauta  in  eating,  drinking,  and  making  merry. 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  181 

Chickens,  eggs,  plantains,  bananas,  and,  in  fact, 
all  that  the  country  afforded,  was  laid  at  the  feet 
of  Los  Americanos  by  the  chalos,  who  were  well 
paid  for  their  provisions  and  for  their  labor  in 
collecting  them.  This  was  during  the  last  of 
June,  1854.  On  the  4th  of  July  a  grand  cele- 
bration was  had.  A  small  cannon  on  board  the 
"  Huallaga"  fired  salutes  during  the  day,  and  at 
night  a  grand  ball  in  honor  of  the  occasion  was 
participated  in  by  everybody  in  Nauta.  Gen. 
Ortez,  commander  of  the  Peruvian  frontier,  was 
present  in  person,  with  his  entire  force,  thirty  or 
forty  native  soldiers.  The  guitars  tinkled  a 
merry'  tune,  the  castanets  rattled,  and  the 
aguadiente  bottle  passed  freely  from  hand  to 
hand.  It  would  not  have  been  a  South 
American  ball  had  it  not  wound  up  with  a 
row,  and  when  one  of  the  Americans  became 
involved  in  a  difficulty  with  a  native,  it  was  no 
more  than  was  expected.  When  the  affair 
threatened  to  become  general,  and  the  pale 
faces  began  to  get  the  upper  hand,  Ortez's  sol- 
diers interfered,  and  separated  the  combatants. 
The  whites  went  down  to  the  river,  and  getting 
out  their  howitzer,  loaded  it,  and  threatened  to 


!82       THE  LIFE,  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

open  fire  on  the  town,  and  a  serious  breach  of 
the  peace  became  imminent.  Wiser  counsel 
prevailed,  however,  and  a  peace  was  patched  up. 
This  broil  caused  discontent,  and  the  Ameri- 
cans, or  some  of  them,  determined  to  leave 
Nauta  at  the  earliest  opportunity. 

General  Ortez  was  the  owner  of  a  large 
canoe,  which  was  sheltered  on  the  beach,  and 
the  men  made  frequent  efforts  to  purchase  it, 
without  success.  The  uncertainty  of  the  time 
of  the  "Huallaga's"  departure,  however,  soon  got 
unbearable,  and,  after  remaining  in  Nauta  a 
month  or  six  weeks,  a  party  was  formed  deter- 
mined to  descend  the  river,  and  that  at  an 
early  day.  The  party  consisted  of  about  twelve 
men.  Three  of  De Milt's  original  party  re- 
mained behind ;  Nelson,  who  had  joined  them 
at  Cerro  Pasco,  Armstrong,  and  Johnson.  De- 
Milt  and  Murray ;  Winship,  engineer  of  the 
"Huallaga ;  "  Houston,  carpenter  ;  Arnold,  fire- 
man, and  several  others  were  to  make  the  trip, 
all  of  them  experienced,  resolute  men. 

They  had  determined  to  take  Ortez's  boat, 
knowing  that  if  they  could  reach  Tabatinga,  on 
the  Brazilian  frontier,  they  were  safe  from  re- 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  jgj 

capture  or  harm.  But  it  was  necessary  to  pro- 
ceed with  caution.  A  night  was  appointed  to 
victual  the  boat  with  supplies  from  the  "Hual- 
laga."  The  American  flag  from  that  vessel  was 
also  appropriated,  and  at  early  dawn  the  next 
morning  they  pushed  off.  The  cheers  of  the 
remaining  Americans,  who  had  gathered  on  the 
"Huallaga's"  decks  to  see  them  off,  aroused  the 
soldiers,  and  they  rushed  to  the  water  in  pur- 
suit But  it  was  too  late,  for  they  had  no 
boats.  Far  out  in  the  river,  with  their  flag 
"flying,  and  yelling  like  Turks,  the  little  party  of 
Americans  were  rapidly  floating  down  stream. 
The  boat  never  stopped  until  it  reached 
Tabatinga,  two  hundred  miles  distant.  The 
men  had,  in  the  meantime,  procured  proper 
passports  from  Ortez,  who  would  probably 
never  have  issued  them  had  he  known  they 
were  plotting  to  take  his  boat ;  and  on  showing 
them  to  the  alcade  of  Tabatinga,  and  telling 
their  story,  they  were  warmly  welcomed.  Taba- 
tinga is  of  no  particular  importance,  and  after 
remaining  a  day  or  two  to  rest,  the  party 
shoved  off  into  the  Amazon  again,  to  try  their 
fortunes  on  the  River. 


!84       THE  LIFE,  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

The  following  is  a  copy  of  a  letter  written  at 
Nauta,  by  DeMilt,  to  a  cousin  in  New  York  : — 

(Copy.) 

NAUTA,  ON  THE  AMAZON  RIVER, 
SOUTH  AMERICA, 

July  29th,  1854. 
DEAR  COUSIN  : 

It  is  two  months  since  I  have 
written  to  you,  and  I  now  write  you  a  few  lines 
to  let  you  know  how  I  am  and  where  I  am.  I 
am  now  at  a  place  called  Nauta,  on  the  Amazon 
River,  onboard  a  steamer  called  the  "Huallaga" 
belonging  to  the  Peruvian  Government.  She 
was  built  in  New  York.  Her  hands  are  all 
Americans.  I  have  been  on  board  of  her  since 
the  first  of  the  month,  after  crossing  the  moun- 
tains, and  I  expect  to  remain  on  board 
till  she  goes  to  Para,  in  Brazil,  at  the  mouth  of 
this  river.  When  she  arrives  at  Para,  I  will  try 
to  get  to  New  York,  and  see  you  once  more,  if 

I  can I  have  had  very  good 

health  since  I  have  been  in  the  country.     It  is 

a  very  warm  climate You  must 

write,  and  direct  your  letters  to  the  American 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  i%$ 

Consul  at  Para.     I  have  not  received  a  letter 
from  you  or  any  one  else  for  two  years.     But  I 

must  close  my  letter 

Your  affectionate  cousin, 

ALONZO  P.  DEMILT. 
E.  STACY,  Esq., 

New  York. 


1 86       THE  LIFE,   TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 


CHAPTER  XXV. 

Down  the  Amazon — Brief  History  of  the  Great  River — 
Pincon's  Voyage  in  1500 — Gonzalez  Pizarro — General 
Characteristics  and  Features — Experiences  of  the 
Party — Bara,  near  the  Rio  Negro — The  Garatea — 
Santarem — Para — Home  Again. 

THE  Amazon  River,  upon  whose  mighty  tide 
our  party  has  now  entrusted  itself,  first  bore 
the  grandiloquent  name,  Santa  Maria  de  la 
Mer  Dolce —  Mary  of  the  Fresh-Water  Sea. 
Pincon,  whose  voyage  was  made  in  the  year 
1500,  affirmed  that  he  had  discovered  a  fresh 
water  sea  on  the  South  American  coast,  and 
that  he  had  filled  his  water  casks  when  out  of 
sight  of  land — and,  as  he  said,  at  a  distance  of 
forty  leagues  therefrom — dipping  up  the  yellow 
water  for  use  on  the  voyage,  and  not  a  tree,  and 
not  a  coast  in  sight.  Wishing  to  penetrate  the 
secret  of  this  phenomenon,  Pincon  sailed  to- 


OF    AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  187 

wards  land,  where  there  "  were  many  beautiful 
and  verdant  islands,  and  much  people,  who  re- 
ceived the  sailors  with  a  great  love,  as  though 
they  had  always  known  them."  Pincon  re- 
warded the  simple-hearted  savages  by  taking 
away  twenty  or  thirty  of  them  as  prisoners  "  on 
account  of  not  finding  any  provisions  in  the 
place." 

The  river  was  first  known  to  the  Indians  as 
Parana,  the  sea,  and  subsequently  as  the 
Maranou,  and  Rio  dos  Amazonas,  from  the  fact 
that  female  warriors  were  supposed  to  dwell 
on  its  banks.  Gonzales  Pizarro,  brother  of 
Alonzo,  conqueror  of  Peru,  was  sent,  with  400 
Spanish  soldiers  and  4,000  Indians,  to  explore 
the  territory  east  of  Quito,  where  cinnamon  trees 
were  supposed  to  abound.  Down  the  Napa 
and  the  Amazon  for  seven  months  floated  the 
mailed  Spaniards  and  their  naked  allies,  and 
terrible  were  their  privations  and  sufferings  ere 
they  reached  the  Atlantic.  Francisco  Orillano, 
in  1541,  and  Lope  d'  Aguire,  in  1561,  travelled 
upon  the  Amazon,  and  left  with  accounts  of 
their  explorations. 

Nothing  could  be  further  from  the  purpose 


!88       THE  LIFE,  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

of  this  book  than  any  attempt  at  an  adequate 
description  of  the  Amazon  river,  or  of  the 
country  through  which  it  flows.  Volumes 
would  be  necessary  for  this  task,  which  has  yet 
never  been  properly  attempted  or  properly  car- 
ried out.  The  world  knows  very  little  about 
the  Amazon,  yet  it  is  not  probable  that  an  expe- 
dition of  the  character  of  the  one  now  descend- 
ing that  stream  in  a  frail  dug-out,  and  often  in 
danger  of  their  lives,  would  have  much  leisure 
for  the  preparation  of  statistical  or  politico- 
economical  information  for  the  benefit  of  the 
world  at  large.  The  day's  supply  of  monkey 
meat,  and  the  best  way  to  get  out  of  and  keep 
out  of  a  thousand  "  tight  places  "  daily,  were 
the  problems  that  most  concerned  the  party  in 
General  Ortez's  barge. 

So  far  as  the  general  scenery  of  the  river  is 
concerned,  I  am  assured  that  the  long  journey 
to  the  mouth  of  the  river  was  sufficiently 
monotonous,  as  is  travel  on  all  rivers.  The 
Amazon,  from  Tabatinga  to  Para,  runs  nearly 
parallel  to  the  equator,  and  almost  under 
it.  The  Mississippi,  which  crosses  twenty  de- 
grees of  latitude,  from  a  very  cold  into  a  semi- 


m.      t 
- 

i/0B 

ol>^ 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  189 

tropical  climate,  must  infinitely  excel  the  Ama- 
zon, so  far  as  diversity  of  appearance  is  con- 
cerned. 

The  banks,  as  a  rule,  are  naturally  low,  as  it 
traverses  the  vast  Morana,  or  plain,  with  an  un- 
ending fringe  of  thick,  impenetrable  jungle 
skirting  it  on  both  hands.  Occasionally  bluffs  or 
hills  rise  directly  out  of  the  river,  and  the  whole 
river  abounds  in  lakes  and  islands  of  the  most 
divers  sizes.  The  Island  of  Marajo,  at  the 
mouth,  is  as  large  as  the  State  of  New  York. 
The  jaguar,  tapir,  puma,  ant-eater,  sloth, 
armadillo,  alpaca,  and  llama,  are  the  principal 
quadrupeds  ;  crocodiles  and  innumerable  ser- 
pents line  the  route.  Half  way  down  the  route, 
a  school  of  crocodiles  were  seen,  which  had 
hemmed  a  school  of  fish  in  a  lagoon,  and  were 
devouring  them  at  their  leisure.  This  is  said 
to  be  a  favorite  mode  of  the  cayman's  for  feed- 
ing. Instances  of  their  upsetting  canoes  and 
devouring  the  occupants,  carrying  off  live  bul- 
locks, etc.,  are  numerous. 

It  was  customary  to  land  but  once  a  day, 
unless  when  absolutely  necessary.  This  was  in 
the  morning,  when  breakfast  was  prepared. 


I90       THE  LIFE,   TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

Having  landed  on  a  sand-bar  one  morning,  and 
cooked  and  eaten  their  breakfast,  they  were 
about  to  embark  when  they  beheld  a  monster 
crocodile  making  directly  for  them  with  great 
rapidity.  Deeming  discretion  the  better  part  of 
valor,  and  having  no  desire  to  try  conclusions 
with  this  formidable  brute,  they  jumped  into 
the  dug-out  and  beat  a  rapid  retreat.  To  their 
surprise  the  cayman  pursued,  and  they  only 
succeeded  in  destroying  the  monster  after  firing 
perhaps  a  hundred  shots.  It  was  conjectured 
that  the  crocodile's  young  were  on  the  sand-bar 
upon  which  their  camp  was  made. 

Turtle,  fish,  etc.,  were  very  plentiful.  A  pre- 
carious living  is  made  by  the  natives  in  extract- 
ing oil  from  turtle  eggs,  one  thousand  of  which 
supply  a  pound  of  oil.  The  eggs  are  placed  in 
a  small  canoe,  a  native  gets  in  on  top 
and  mashes  them  thoroughly,  when  they  are 
exposed  to  the  sun.  Rubber  trees  are  plentiful, 
and  the  juice,  white  and  milky  looking,  is  ex- 
tracted in  large  quantities.  Brazil  nuts  are 
found  in  abundance.  Near  Bara,  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Rio  Negro,  General  Ortez's  boat  was  dis- 
posed of,  and  a  garatea  procured.  This  was 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  nji 

necessary  on  account  of  the  increasing  size  ol 
the  river.  The  garatea  is  a  much  larger  and 
more  comfortable  vessel.  Its  stern  is  thatch- 
ed and  protected  from  the  sun  and  rain.  The 
river,  at  the  point  where  the  garatea  was  pro- 
cured, is  about  four  miles  wide. 

At  a  town  called  Bara,  not  far  from  the 
mouth  of  the  Rio  Negro,  while  the  party  were 
drifting  down  at  a  short  distance  from  the  right 
bank  of  the  river,  one  of  the  men  sung  out  that 
there  was  a  lot  of  young  natives  at  the  foot  of 
a  bluff  just  opposite.  DeMilt  was  in  the  stern 
steering,  and  he  at  once  headed  for  shore.  At 
the  top  of  the  bluff  stood  a  large  tree,  and 
something  like  a  grape-vine  seemed  hanging 
over  the  water  and  waving  gently  to  and 
fro.  Gradually  drawing  nearer,  the  men 
noticed  that  two  paths  ran  up  the  face  of  the 
bluff,  and  that  what  they  supposed  to  be  young 
natives  were  in  fact  large  monkeys.  The  sup- 
posed vine  was  also  seen  to  be  a  gigantic  snake, 
and  as  near  as  they  could  judge,  from  the  coils 
around  the  tree,  must  have  been  forty  feet  long. 
It  had  hemmed  in  the  monkeys,  and  by  swing- 
ing its  body  to  and  fro,  kept  them  from  ascending. 


ig2       THE  LIFK,  TRAVELS  AND  AD  VENTURES 

They  could  hear  the  monkeys  scream  and 
halloo,  as  if  for  assistance.  When  the  boat's 
crew  found  out  what  the  trouble  was,  they  put 
out  again,  and  when  last  seen  the  snake  was 
still  hanging  over  the  monkeys,  ready  to  devour 
them. 

September  4th,  1854,  found  the  adventurers 
at  Santarem.  Here  the  garatea  was  sold  for 
$100,  and  passage  taken  for  Para  on  a  Brazilian 
ocean  steamer.  The  distance  is  about  five 
hundred  miles.  One  of  the  crew  of  the  steamer 
was  the  owner  of  a  sloth,  which,  when  the 
vessel  started,  was  placed  on  a  forestay.  The 
animal  climbed  slowly  aloft,  so  slowly  that 
when  the  vessel  arrived  at  Para,  three  or  four 
days  after,  it  had  still  nearly  half  of  the  distance 
to  accomplish. 

Some  of  the  men  were  in  great  need  when 
they  arrived  at  Para.  The  American  Consul 
declined  to  aid  them,  and  they  were 
forced  to  remain.  On  the  disbanding  of  the 
party  at  this  place,  DeMilt  took  passage  on  a 
homeward  bound  brig,  and  arrived  in  New 
York,  after  a  safe  and  pleasant  passage  of  a  few 
weeks.  The  vessel  was  loaded  with  rubber, 


Of  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  ^^ 

Brazil  nuts,  oranges  and  bananas,  and  carried  a 
huge  anaconda,  larger  than  the  one  which 
DeMilt  had  killed  at  the  mouth  of  the  Huallaga. 


THE  LIFE,  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 


CHAPTER  XXVI. 

Life  at  Home  —  Pleasure  and  Business  —  Frazer  River 
Excitement  —  The  Young  ?49-er  Aroused  —  Third  Trip  to 
the  Land  of  Gold  via  the  Straits  of  Magellan  —  Rio 
Janeiro  —  Patagonia  and  Chili. 


was  twenty-six  years  of  age  when  he 
once  more  set  foot  in  the  streets  of  New  York, 
on  his  return  from  South  America.  Very  few 
men  of  that  age  have  travelled  over 
as  much  territory  as  that  traversed  by  De- 
Milt  in  his  wanderings.  Buffeted  about  from 
his  infancy,  he  had  crossed  the  plains,  a  boy 
gold-hunter,  at  the  age  of  nineteen,  had  made 
two  trips  to  California,  twice  crossed  the  Pacific 
Ocean.  His  footsteps  had  trod  the  summit  of 
the  Andes  of  South  America,  and  the  wilds  of 
Australia  ;  he  had  followed  the  Amazon  from 
its  source  to  its  mouth  —  5,000  miles  —  in  a  dug- 
out. DeMilt  may  have  thought  that  he  might 
now  enjoy  a  respite  from  the  perils  of  a  wan- 
dering life,  but  it  was  decreed  otherwise.  A 
third  trip  to  the  land  of  gold,  and  return,  with  a 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  ^ 

young  comrade,  to  whose  lady  love,  DeMilt  had 
solemnly  sworn  to  bring  him  safely  back ;  an- 
other trip,  after  that,  to  the  tropics,  with  laugh- 
able adventures  in  Granada,  and  then  a  final 
return  to  the  States.  But  I  will  not  anticipate. 
The  first  few  months  of  DeMilt's  stay  in 
New  York  were  spent  sightseeing,  visiting  rela- 
tives, recuperating,  etc.  He  also  visited  an 
aunt  in  Bridgeport,  Conn.,  remaining  there 
during  the  winter.  The  next  spring,  returning 
to  the  metropolis,  DeMilt  became  connected 
with  a  large  express  company,  and  was  em- 
ployed by  them  for  a  year.  At  the  expiration 
of  this  time,  DeMilt,  through  the  influence  of 
a  cousin — who,  at  his  death,  founded  the  De- 
Milt  Dispensary — procured  a  responsible  posi- 
tion in  the  employ  of  the  Sixth  Avenue  Street 
Car  Company, whose  superintendent,  Mr.  Ebbitts, 
was  not  long  in  becoming  attached  to  DeMilt. 
It  was  while  engaged  in  this  business  that 
DeMilt  accidentally  met  an  old  acquaintance,  a 
man  by  the  name  of  Smith,  with  whom  he  had 
parted  at  Huanaco,  when  many  of  the  party 
had  turned  back  to  wend  their  steps  to  Lima. 
Smith  was  a  ship  carpenter,  of  Swedish  descent, 


J96       THE  LIFE,   TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

born  in  Nova  Scotia.  He  was  en  route  to  his 
old  home,  where  he  intended  to  settle  up  his 
affairs,  return  to  Lima,  and  work  at  his  trade. 
He  had  fallen  in  love  with  a  lady  of  Lima,  and 
intended  to  marry  her  on  his  return0  The  men 
were  highly  delighted  at  this  unexpected  meet- 
ing, and  remained  together  for  some  days. 

Smith  finally  departed,  and  is  perhaps  in 
Lima  at  this  day,  doing  a  good  business,  and 
surrounded  by  a  houseful  of  children.  DeMilt 
remained  in  the  Street  Car  Company  until  the 
fall  of  1857,  when  a  kinsman  of  his,  doing  a 
large  twine  business,  proposed  that  DeMilt 
should  sell  goods  for  him.  This  proposition 
was  accepted  by  DeMilt,  and  he  pushed  the 
business  with  good  success  for  about  ten 
months,  or  until  the  Fraser  River  gold  excite- 
ment attracted  his  attention.  Considerable  ex- 
citement prevailed  even  as  far  distant  as  New 
York — amply  sufficient  to  arouse  the  blood  t>i 
the  young  '49-er.  A  party  of  four  was  formed, 
with  DeMilt  at  its  head,  to  go  to  California. 
Opportunities  for  reaching  the  promised  land 
were  not  wanting,  and  the  following  placard 
meeting  DeMilt's  eye  decided  him, — 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  197 

For  San  Francisco  and  Frazer  River, 

DIRECT. 

THE   CALIFORNIA,  NEW    YORK,  AND  EUROPEAN 
STEAMSHIP  COMPANY 

Have  purchased  the  Steamships  HERMANN  and  WASHINGTON,  formerly  of 
the  Southampton  and  Bremen  Line.      These  Ships  were  constructed  under 
government  inspection,  of  the  best  material  (live  oak  frame)  and  are, 
in  all  respects,  well  known   as  the  most  safe  and  commo- 
dious Steamships  out  of  the   port  of   New  York. 

THE   COMPANY'S 

STEAMSHIP    "  HERMANN  " 

Captain   Edward  Cavendy, 
WILL   POSITIVELY  SAIL 

ON  THE  21st   OF  AUGUST,  Inst, 

From  Pier  No.  36,  North  River,  foot  of  North  Moore 
Street,  New  York, 

FOR  SAN  FRANCISCO  AND  FRAZER  RIVER, 

TOUCHING  AT 
RIO  JANEIRO  AND  VALPARAISO. 

Only  a  limited  number  of  Passengers   and  amount   of   Freight  will   be  taken,  for 

which  early  application  must  be  made.      The  accommodations  of  this 

Steamer  are  unsurpassed. 

For  Freight  or  Passage  apply  at  the  Office  of  the  Com- 
pany, 323  Greenwich  Street,  New  York. 

HENRY  RANDALL,  ACT. 


!98       THE  LIFE,  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

The  four  men  were  on  board  the  vessel  on 
the  day  and  at  the  hour  appointed.  Loaded 
with  wines,  liquors,  delicacies,  etc.,  provided 
by  kind  friends  and  relatives,  they  impatiently 
awaited  the  departure.  The  vessel  left  prompt- 
ly on  time,  and  they  were  soon  on  the  Atlantic. 
Heading  southward,  Rio  Janeiro  was  the  first 
port  touched  at,  which  was  reached  after  a  fine 
passage  of  twenty-five  days.  We  will  not  pass 
over  the  city  and  Bay  of  Rio  and  their  sur- 
roundings, perhaps,  the  finest  in  the  world, 
without  a  few  wTords.  Here  the  vessel  remained 
a  week,  and  as  the  party  spent  most  of  the  time 
in  sight-seeing  in  the  Brazilian  capital,  there, 
with  your  kind  permission,  reader,  I  will  follow 
them. 

DeSolis,  Magellan,  and  Martin  de  Lousee 
were  the  first  civilized  white  men  to  sail  through 
the  narrow  entrance  of  the  harbor  of  Rio 
Janeiro,  then  known  as  Nitheray  (hidden  water) 
by  the  Indians.  It  is  related  that  Souza,  who 
entered  it  in  the  year  1531,  thinking  he  had  dis- 
covered the  mouth  of  a  gigantic  river,  named  it 
Rio  de  Janeiro — River  of  January — from  the 
month  in  which  he  made 'his  fancied  discovery. 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  ^g 

Hundreds  of  glowing  descriptions  have  been 
written  of  the  Bay  of  Rio.  It  is  enough,  in  this 
connection,  to  say  that  with  the  Bay  of  Naples 
and  the  Golden  Horn  of  Constantinople  the 
harbor  of  Rio  de  Janeiro  is  always  classed.  It 
is,  perhaps,  superior  to  either,  or  both  of  them  ; 
and  to  the  tourist  from  the  North,  who  for  the 
first  time  is  brought  into  contact  with  the 
scenery  of  the  tropics,  it  is  the  most  remarkable 
for  beauty,  particularly  if  he  leaves  his  home  in 
the  winter  season.  Two  or  three  weeks  on  the 
rolling  Atlantic,  with  all  behind  him  snow  and 
ice,  and  then  Rio — the  transition  is  complete 
and  perfect 

After  seeing  the  usual  sights,  and  hearing 
the  customary  sounds  in  Rio,  in  which  city  our 
party  remained  a  week,  the  vessel  weighed 
anchor  and  stood  off  to  the  southward.  In 
about  three  weeks  they  drew  near  the  Straits  of 
Magellan,  through  which  the  intrepid  navigator, 
whose  name  they  bear,  passed  when  our  globe 
was  circumnavigated  for  the  first  time.  Ter- 
ribly rough  weather  was  encountered  in  these 
latitudes,  and  weeks  were  spent  in  beating 
up  against  head  winds  and  contrary  currents. 


2oo       THE  LIFE,  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

Nothing  but  the  skilful  seamanship  of  the 
officers  and  the  strength  and  trimness  of 
the  "  Hermann "  saved  them,  when  at  times 
the  winds,  waves,  and  sunken  rocks  of  the  chan- 
nel combined  to  work  their  destruction.  After 
entering  the  Straits,  some  of  the  passengers, 
including  DeMilt,  visited  the  Patagonia  shore, 
and  ate  crabs  and  mussels  with  the  gigantic 
natives,  who  are  frequently  seven  feet  high. 
Here  blazed  at  night  the  lovely  southern  cross, 
where  the  mysterious  clouds  were  seen.  After 
coaling  at  Lota,  the  journey  was  continued 
northward  to  Valparaiso,  Scarcely  anybody, 
except  it  be  tempest-tossed  mariner,  would  be 
willing  to  allow  to  this  city  all  that  is  intended 
to  be  conveyed  in  its  romantic  name,  Vale  of 
Paradise.  A  range  of  high  hills  stretches  off 
in  the  distance,  to  the  rear  of  the  city  of 
Valparaiso,  which  is  built  on  terraces  at  the 
foot  of  the  hills.  Two  deep  clefts  divide  the 
town  into  three  distinct  districts,  known  respec- 
tively as  the  foretop,  maintop,  and  mizzentop. 
The  town  is  wretched  and  miserable  looking  at 
close  quarters,  with  its  low,  shabby  houses,  and 
narrow  streets.  The  summit  of  the  volcano  of 


OF    AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  2OI 

Aconcagua,  23,000  feet  above  the  sea,  is  seen  in 
the  distance.  Leaving  Valparaiso,  the  vessel 
continued  on  its  course  to  Panama,  where 
Captain  Cavendy  left  the  ship,  and  was  suc- 
ceeded by  Captain  Patterson.  Touching  at 
San  Juan  del  Norte,  Nicaragua,  and  Acapulco, 
Mexico,  the  journey  to  'Frisco  was  accom- 
plished, after  a  trip  of  nearly  one  hundred  days 
duration. 


202       i#-£  Ut'E,  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 


CHAPTER  XXVII. 

San  Francisco — Bursting  of  the  Frazes  River  Bubble — 
On  to  the  Neuces-  -Hard  Luck — Footing  it  Back — 
Adventures  by  the  Way — Stockton — The  Steamboat 
Captain — Operations  in  'Frisco — Taking  a  Comrade 
Back  to  the  States — Makes  an  Acquaintance — Plans 
for  the  Future — Anonymous  Love  Letters, 

The  City  of  San  Francisco,  on  the  oc- 
casion of  De  Milt's  arrival  there  for  the 
third  time,  was  dull  and  quiets  compared  with 
the  "  flash  "  town  he  had  left  when  bound  for 
Australia.  So  far  as  the  Frazer  River  excite- 
ment was  concerned,  it  had  vanished  into  thin 
air.  Hatched  up  by  interested  parties,  mainly 
steamboat  men,  the  "boom"  was  as  short-lived 
as  it  was  fraudulent.  Long  before  the  "  Her- 
mann "  had  reached  San  Francisco,  and  even 
while  at  Panama  and  Acapulco,  bad  reports 
were  heard  concerning  the  whole  of  the  alleged 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER. 


203 


discoveries  on  Frazer  River.  These  reports 
were  fully  confirmed  on  arriving  at  San 
Francisco.  Like  the  gold  excitement  in 
South  America,  that  of  Frazer  River  soon  sub- 
sided into  its  normal  place  in  the  long  list  of 
humbug  and  fraud  with  which  the  times 
abounded. 

The  company  of  four,  which  had  left  New 
York  on  the  "  Hermann,"  now  disbanded. 
DeMilt  and  a  young  sailmaker,  named  Crolius, 
of  New  York,  remained  together,  and  as  they 
had  ventured  to  California  for  gold,  they  were 
not  going  to  leave  until  they  had  found  it,  or 
tried  to  find  it.  Providing  themselves  with 
picks,  pans,  shovels,  and  blankets,  and  young 
Crolius  trusting  implicitly  in  DeMilt's  experi- 
ence as  a  '49-er,  the  two  set  forth  on  their 
travels  with  stout  hearts.  From  San  Francisco 
they  went  to  Sacramento,  and  took  the  road  to 
the  Stanislaus  diggings,  "  prospecting  "  vainly 
all  the  time,  until  they  reached  Columbia.  But 
it  was  evident  now  that  the  "  placer,"  or  sur- 
face gold  of  California,  had  been  exhausted. 
Hydraulic  mining  and  quartz  crushing  operations 
were  in  progress  at  Columbia,  but  this  required 


204       THE  LIFE,   TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

extensive  means,  and  an  enormous  outlay  of 
capital.  There  was  no  chance  here  for  the 
gulch  miners  of  '49. 

Besides,  the  finances  of  this  -little  party 
of  two,  were  at  a  low  ebb.  They  were  pos- 
sessed of  several  hundred  dollars  apiece 
when  they  landed  at  San  Francisco,  but 
their  travels  and  constant  expenses,  with  no  in- 
come, had  well-nigh  exhausted  their  little  store. 
Seeing  that  there  was  no  hope  at  Columbia,  and 
with  but  little  over  five  dollars  apiece  to  bless 
themselves  with,  DeMilt  and  Crolius  determined 
to  take  the  back  track  to  Stockton,  two  hun- 
dred miles.  There  was  no  help  for  it ;  they 
were  obliged  to  foot  it.  Their  effects  had  been 
stored  at  the  house  of  an  acquaintance  at 
'Frisco,  and  they  proposed  to  encumber  them- 
selves with  nothing  but  their  pistols  and  blan- 
kets. The  men  owed  a  small  board  bill  at  the 
house  at  which  they  were  living,  and  they  de- 
termined to  leave  their  picks,  pans,  shovels,  etc., 
to  liquidate  the  debt.  In  order  to  avoid  any  de- 
lays, however,  they  left  one  morning  just  at 
break  of  day,  and  pushed  out  rapidly. 

By  the  kindness  of  the  ranchers  and  miners 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  205 

along  the  road,  and  by  dint  of  selling  their 
pistols,  which  were  fine  weapons,  DeMilt 
and  Crolius  managed  to  get  to  Stockton  with- 
out much  difficulty,  but  with  scarcely  enough 
money  to  get  a  square  meal  and  a  drink 
on  arriving  at  the  end  of  their  long  march. 
They  arrived  at  Stockton,  however,  one  morn- 
ing bright  and  early.  The  San  Francisco^  boat 
had  just  arrived,  and  was  loading  for  the  return 
trip.  After  refreshing  themselves  at  a  restau- 
rant near  by,  DeMilt,  who  did  all  the  talking, 
went  to  the  levee,  to  see  what  the  chances  were 
to  get  a  passage  down  the  river.  After  some 
conversation,  in  which  DeMilt  told  his  story, 
mentioning  the  fact  that  he  was  a  49-er,  and  ac- 
companied by  a  green,  inexperienced  boy,  the 
captain  told  him  to  go  to  work  loading  a  lighter 
with  wood  for  the  boat.  They  went  to  work 
with  a  will,  and  by  the  time  the  steamer  was 
ready  to  leave,  their  shoulders  were  raw,  and 
they  were  fatigued  well  nigh  to  death.  Crolius 
was  utterly  fagged  out,  but  they  slept  wonder- 
fully that  night,  and  arrived  at  'Frisco  the  next 
morning.  Going  to  the  house  where  they  had 
stowed  their  luggage,  they  borrowed  a  few  dol- 


2o6       THE  LIFE,   TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

lars  from  a  friend,  and  dressing  and  shaving 
were  soon  in  a  presentable  condition.  They 
called  upon  their  friend,  the  captain  of  the 
steamboat,  in  a  day  or  two.  He  scarcely  knew 
them,  but  was  glad  to  see  them,  when  they 
made  themselves  known,  and  quite  a  friendship 
sprang  up  between  the  men. 

DeMilt  allowed  no  grass  to  grow  under  his 
feet  in  his  efforts  to  get  hold  of  some  money. 
And  he  was  eminently  successful.  Crolius  also 
obtained  employment  at  his  trade  of  sail-making. 
DeMilt  occupied  himself  in  various  ways,  and 
eked  out  his  expenses  and  a  little  more,  until 
he  became  connected  with  a  house  of 
ship  -  chandlers.  Here  his  knowledge  of 
twines,  etc.,  acquired  during  his  stay  in  New 
York,  was  of  great  service  to  him.  He  had  sold 
butter,  cranberries,  etc.,  on  the  streets  of  'Frisco, 
at  but  little  profit,  up  to  this  time,  but  now 
things  began  to  look  better.  He  had  excellent 
luck  in  selling  twines,  for  some  time,  giving 
great  satisfaction  to  his  employers,  and  making 
a  fair  profit  himself  as  broker.  Finally,  he  got 
hold  of  a  cargo  of  damaged  sun  hemp,  which 
had  been  purchased  by  the  house  at  an  auction. 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  307 

This  was  found  to  be  too  badly  damaged  to  be 
made  into  rope,  which  was  the  purpose  of  the 
house  in  buying  it,  and  the  services  of  DeMilt 
were  utilized  to  dispose  of  it.  After  one  or  two 
unsuccessful  attempts  to  dispose  of  the  com- 
modity, DeMilt  succeeded  in  finding  a  market 
for  it,  selling  it  to  upholsterers  for  filling  mat- 
trasses,  etc.  The  entire  cargo  was  sold  in  the 
course  of  a  few  weeks,  and  at  a  profit  to  DeMilt 
of  two  to  three  cents  a  pound.  Young  Crolius 
had  found  employment,  as  we  have  said,  at  sail- 
making,  and  was  earning  good  wages.  The 
two  adventurers  were  in  funds  once  more. 
Crolius  was  engaged  to  be  married  to  a  young 
la'dy  in  New  York,  and  was  anxious  to  return 
to  her»  DeMilt,  who  had  promised  the  young 
lady  to  bring  back  her  lover  safely,  felt  in  duty 
bound  to  accompany  him  on  the  return  trip. 

Stepping  in,  on  his  way  home  that  night,  at 
the  ship-chandler's  office,  DeMilt  notified  them 
of  his  intention  of  returning  to  the  States  on 
the  next  steamer.  This  was  bad  news  for  the 
merchants,  and  they  used  their  utmost  endeav- 
or to  dissuade  DeMilt  from  his  purpose,  but  in 
vain.  DeMilt  was  too  valuable  a  man  to  be 


2o8       THE  LIFE,   TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

parted  with  lightly.  They  offered  him  per- 
manent employment  at  a  salary  of  $250  per 
month,  but  DeMilt  had  made  up  his  mind,  and 
the  next  steamer  leaving  'Frisco  bore  DeMilt 
and  his  young  protege  gayly  over  the  waters  en 
route  to  Panama.  At  the  isthmus  a  young  man 
was  discovered  who,  being  out  of  funds,  had 
worked  his  way  down  to  Panama  as  a  waiter,  and 
was  now  endeavoring  to  get  across  the  isthmus. 
DeMilt  and  Crolius  felt  quite  an  interest  in  the 
youth,  who  was  a  brave-hearted  fellow,  and  they 
managed  to  secrete  him  in  a'railway  car,  under 
the  seat,  by  covering  him  up  with  blankets,  pon- 
chos, and  the  like,  and  got  him  safely  over. 
Although  great  precautions  were  taken  by  ship 
people  to  guard  against  the  introduction  of 
stowaways,  DeMilt  and  his  companion  actually 
succeeded  in  smuggling  the  lad  to  New  York 
free,  on  the  vessel  in  which  they  had  engaged 
passage. 

A  sharp  chap,  Charlie  F  :  *  by  name,  was 
a  passenger  with  DeMilt  on  the  steamer  bound 
for  New  York.  He  also  was  a  returned  Cali- 
fornian,  a  man  of  wonderful  versatility,  and  of 
large  experience,  and  it  was  not  many  days  before 


OF  AAT  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  209 

quite  an  acquaintance  was  established  between 
them.  Charlie,  among  other  accomplish- 
ments, was  quite  an  artist,  and  had  some  know- 
ledge of  the  art  of  photography.  He  had  picked 
up  somewhere  the  idea  that  a  fortune  was  to  be 
made  in  the  South  American  States  by  taking 
pictures  of  people.  This  idea  he  communi- 
cated to  DeMilt,  who  finally  adopted  it  himself, 
and  before  the  ship  reached  New  York  it  was 
agreed,  on  both  sides,  that  they  were  to  engage 
in  that  business  in  the  State  of  Granada,  which, 
Charlie  thought,  offered  the  most  promising 
field  for  that  line  of  trade. 

Once  in  New  York,  no  time  was  lost  in  put- 
ting this  idea  into  practice.  DeMilt  and  Char- 
lie apprenticed  themselves  to  a  first-class  artist 
on  Broadway,  and  rapidly  posted  themselves 
concerning  the  business  of  taking  pictures,  a 
business  in  which  DeMilt  soon  developed  a  de- 
cided knack  for  "  sitting  "  people.  At  the  end 
of  three  months,  the  men  considered  themselves 
sufficiently  well  versed  in  the  art,  and 
bought  chemicals,  apparatus,  etc.,  preparatory  to 
the  start  for  Granada. 

It  was  during  this  apprenticeship  to  the  pho- 


210       THE  LIFE,  TRAVELS  AA-D  ADVENTURES 

tographer,  that  DeMilt  made  the  conquest  of 
the  heart  of  a  beautiful  young  lady  in  a  most 
unexpected  and  romantic  manner.  Often,  when 
the  work  of  the  day  was  over,  DeMilt  would 
drop  in  upon  his  friend  Crolius — whom, 
it  will  be  remembered,  he  brought  safely  back 
from  California — in  accordance  with  his  promise 
to  Crolius'  fiancee.  She  was  a  very  beautiful 
young  lady,  and  they  had  wedded  shortly  after 
Crolius'  return,  and  were  living  happily  to- 
gether in  a  large  house  in  Brooklyn.  DeMilt 
had  attended  the  wedding  of  these  young  peo- 
ple, was  always  a  welcome  guest  at  their  house, 
and  visited  them  frequently.  Crolius  had  an 
office  in  New  York,  where  he  transacted  busi- 
ness, and  it  was  at  this  place  that  DeMilt  was 
in  the  habit  of  meeting  him  in  the  evenings. 

From  here  the  two  young  men  would  proceed 
to  Crolius'  house,  where  singing,  card-playing, 
and  other  amusements  were  indulged  in. 
DeMilt  was  always  ready  to  sing  a  song  to  the 
accompaniment  of  a  guitar,  crack  a  joke,  or 
tell  a  tale.  He  was  welcome  on  that  account 
—  to  say  nothing  of  his  chivalrous  devotion  to 
young  Crolius  during  their  hard  experiences 


OF  AN  A  MEXICAN  WANDERER.  2 1 1 

in  California,  and  his  safe  bringing  back  of 
young  Crolius  to  his  lady  love. 

One  evening,  after  DeMilt  had  finished  his 
day's  work  at  the  photographic  studio,  and  was 
about  dropping  into  a  cafe  for  supper,  before 
calling  on  Crolius,  the  thought  occurred  to  him 
to  step  into  the  Post  office,  where  he  expected  to 
receive  foreign  letters.  He  was  electrified,  on 
inquiring,  to  find  that  a  pink-tinted,  sweet- 
scented  billet  doux,  addressed  to  him  in  the 
delicate  but  unmistakable  chirography  of  a  lady, 
was  awaiting  him.  Lon  DeMilt  knew  that  he 
had  no  flirtations  on  hand  at  this  time,  and 
was  at  a  loss  to  account  for  the  receipt  of 
the  missive,  studying  the  handwriting  in  vain  to 
get  some  clue  to  the  fair  sender.  Putting  the 
note  finally  into  his  pocket,  without  even  break- 
ing the  seal,  he  proceeded  on  his  way  to  the 
office  of  his  friend.  On  meeting  Crolius, 
DeMilt  thrust  his  hand  into  his  pocket,  pro- 
duced the  missive,  told  how  he  had  received  it, 
opened  it,  and  ran  his  eye  rapidly  down  the 
page. 

The  note  was  an  anonymous  one,  but  was  un- 
mistakably from  a  lady — very  likely  from  a 


212       THE  LIFE,   TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

young,  romantic  and  beautiful  one.  It  was 
couched  in  elegant  and  modest  terms,  and  told 
a  romantic  story,  stating,  in  brief,  that  the 
writer,  a  lad)',  had  been  informed  concerning 
the  adventurous  life  of  DeMilt,  of  his  travels 
and  struggles  in  far  off  lands,  of  his  gallant  aid 
to  the  young  lovers,  etc.,  and  concluded  by 
confessing  a  warm  attachment  for  the  hero  of 
so  many  stirring  exploits,  and  vowed  to  love 
him  forever,  etc. 

It  was  a  clear  case  of  Othello  and  Desdemona 
over  asrain. 

O 

A  light  laugh  ran  round  at  the  expense  of 
DeMilt  and  his  inamorata,  and  little  more  was 
thought  of  it  for  the  time  being ;  but  as  the  let- 
ters did  not  cease  with  this  one,  and  continued 
to  arrive  daily  almost,  an  investigation  was 
had.  DeMilt,  Crolius  and  wife  tried  to 
unravel  the  mystery,  and  succeeded,  but  not 
until  several  weeks  had  passed.  There  lived, 
in  the  house  adjoining  that  of  Crolius, 
a  young  lady  just  out  of  boarding-school,  and 
between  her  and  young  Mrs.  Crolius  there 
existed  quite  an  intimacy.  Mrs.  C.  had 
confided  to  the  young  girl  the  history  of 


GF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  -213 

DeMilt's  kind  treatment  of  her  husband  in  the 
land  of  gold,  and  had  also  sketched  his  adven- 
tures from  his  early  years.  The  young  lady  was 
beautiful,  accomplished,  and  of  good  family, 
possessed  of  a  romantic  disposition,  and  with  a 
penchant  for  novel  flirtations.  She  had  seen 
DeMilt,  and  all  unknown  to  him  had  fallen  in 
love  at  first  sight  with  the  bronzed  and  good- 
looking  wanderer.  It  was  not  until  many  let- 
ters had  been  received  by  him,  that  he  found 
who  •  his  fair  correspondent  was.  A  pleasant 
acquaintance  resulted,  but  nothing  more.  He 
corresponded  with  the  young  lady  after  leaving 
New  York,  and  thought  of  making  her  his  wife, 
and  might  have  done  so,  had  not  subsequent 
events  materially  altered  his  plans. 


214       THE  LIFE>  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 


CHAPTER  XXVIII. 

Off  for  New  Granada — Seven  Hundred  Kegs  of  Powder 
on  Board — Arrival  at  Santa  Martha — Baranquilla — 
Experiences  in  Photography  —  DeMilt's  Disgust — 
Boarding  a  vessel  to  Return — Passage  Back  to  New 
York. 

AFTER  procuring  the  necessary  apparatus  and 
chemicals,  DeMilt  and  Charlie  engaged  pas- 
sage on  the  brig  "Winthrop,"  Beares,  master, 
for  Colombia.  Their  baggage  was  taken 
aboard,  the  anchor  weighed,  and  they  were  soon 
out  of  the  harbor.  Off  Sandy  Hook,  the  men 
went  on  deck  and  lit  their  cigars,  proposing 
to  enjoy  a  smoke  in  the  cool  of  the  evening. 
While  thus  engaged,  they  were  approached  by 
a  sailor,  who,  with  a  pale  face,  implored 
them  to  be  careful  of  the  fire  of  their  cigars, 
and  stated  that  he  had  learned,  since  shipping 


OF    AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  215 

on  the  "  Winthrop,"  that  there  were  seven 
hundred  kegs  of  gunpowder  on  the  brig. 
DeMilt  and  Charlie  were  greatly  alarmed  at  this 
information,  hurriedly  counted  the  cash  in  the 
treasury,  and  offered  it,  every  cent,  to  the 
captain  if  he  would  set  them  and  their  traps  on 
the  nearest  shore.  The  captain  laughed 
at  the  proposition,  which  he  pronounced  im- 
possible, and  said  there  was  not  the  slightest 
danger,  an  opinion  in  which  the  passengers  did 
not  concur.  To  add  to  the  fears  of  our  friends, 
as  soon  as  the  brig  neared  the  tropics,  a  series 
of  storms,  with  terrific  thunder  and  lightning, 
occurred,  and  they  expected  momentarily  to  be 
blown  skyward  in  ten  thousand  fragments.  So 
terribly  in  earnest  were  the  men  to  get  away 
from  the  powder  ship,  that  when  they  touched 
at  Santa  Martha,  the  first  port,  they  departed  at 
once,  paid  the  duties  on  their  stock,  which  was 
very  high,  and  took  passage  on  a  small  steamer 
for  Baranquilla.  Santa  Martha  is  a  wretched 
village,  just  under  the  spur  of  a  mountain.  The 
inhabitants  traffic  some  in  dye-woods,  and  eke 
out  a  subsistence  on  fish,  yuccas,  bananas,  and 
the  like.  The  artists  were  not  sorry  to  leave 


216       THE  LIFE,  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

Santa  Martha,  although  Baranquilla,  where  they 
intended  to  prosecute  their  picture-taking 
enterprise,  was  no  great  improvement  upon 
it.  It  is  situated  near  the  mouth  of  the 
Magdalena  River,  the  Mississippi  of  Colombia. 
At  Baranquilla,  the  amateurs  unpacked  their 
traps,  rigged  a  sort  of  gallery,  and  proclaimed 
to  the  world  in  general,  and  to  the  good  people 
of  Baranquilla  in  particular,  that  they  were  pre- 
pared to  take  pictures  in  the  best  style  and  in 
any  manner  desired.  The  new  establishment 
thrived.  The  boys  dabbled  in  chemicals,  posed 
the  natives,  took  very  good  pictures,  and  made 
money.  DeMilt  worked  vigorously  at  his  newly 
adopted  profession,  and  varied  his  employment 
by  making  love  to  the  daughter  of  a  skipper  of 
the  town,  a  man  of  some  means,  who  owned  a 
flotilla  of  the  boats  of  the  country.  He  was 
a  European,  who  had  settled  in  Colombia,  mar- 
ried a  young  Castillian  lady,  and  accumulated 
quite  a  property.  His  daughter  was  very 
pretty.  DeMilt  was  tempted  to  fall  in  love 
with  her,  and  after  his  work  among  the  chem- 
icals and  cameras  was  done  for  the  day,  would 
call  and  spend  the  evening  at  her  house,  or, 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  2  \  7 

taking  his  guitar  late  at  night,  would  sing  her  a 
song  under  her  latticed  window. 

Charlie  F  '  :  *  did  not  do  so  well.  He  was 
not  over  fond  of  hard  work,  but  was  over  fond 
of  the  aguadiente  and  senoras  of  Baranquilla. 
He  seemed  to  look  upon  the  whole  thing  as  a 
large-sized  spree,  guitar-playing,  dancing, 
and  drinking  as  the  principal  business,  with  a 
little  photography  thrown  in  now  and  then. 
DeMilt  did  not  approve  of  that  frolic  by  any 
means,  and  as  Charlie  seemed  to  get  worse  in- 
stead of  better,  and  the  increasing  heat  of  the 
climate  began  to  make  the  chemicals  act 
badly,  he  saw  that  they  were  about  to  be 
wrecked  down  there  on  the  coast  of  the  Spanish 
main,  and  determined  to  make  a  break  for 
New  York,  and  settle  down  to  some  legitimate 
business. 

One  evening  as  Charlie  was  recovering 
from  the  effects  of  a  mild  debauche,  and  they 
were  lying  in  their  hammocks,  resting  after  the 
day's  work,  DeMilt  announced  his  determina- 
tion to  quit  the  country.  Charlie  felt  very 
badly,  of  course,  and  implored  Lon  not  to  leave 
him,  promising  to  reform,  etc.,  but  to  no  purpose. 


218       THE  LIFE,   TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

DeMilt,  with  his  partner's  consent,  took  what 
cash  there  was  in  the  treasury,  leaving  the  stock 
and  fixtures  to  Charlie,  and  made  arrangements 
for  an  immediate  departure.  From  this  time 
until  the  hour  that  DeMilt  set  foot  on  the  dock 
in  New  York,  preverse  fate  seemed  to  have  in- 
stituted a  series  of  annoyances,  mistakes  and 
aggravations  for  the  especial  benefit  of  our 
hero.  A  vessel  lay  over  at  Sabanella,  some 
twenty  miles  distant,  which  was  about  to  leave 
immediately  for  the  States.  DeMilt  paid  a 
native  five  dollars  to  cross  over  to  Sabanella, 
and  notify  the  captain  of  the  vessel  that  he  pro- 
posed to  take  passage  with  him  for  New  York, 
and  that  he,  with  his  baggage,  would  be  over 
next  day.  The  rascally  native  pocketed  the^ 
money,  and  probably  got  gloriously  drunk  upon 
it,  for  he  never  went  near  the  vessel  at  Saban- 
fclla,  as  DeMilt  soon  discovered  to  his  sorrow. 
Strapping  his  effects  to  the  back  of  a  burro, 
and  mounted  upon  another,  in  true  South 
American  style,  DeMilt,  accompanied  by  a 
couple  of  natives,  crossed  the  neck  of  land  be- 
tween Baranquilla  and  Sabanella,  and  arrived 
at  the  last  named  place  just  in  time  to  se'e  the 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  219 

vessel  in  the  distance,  tacking  to  get  out  of  the 
bay,  and  then  nearly  out.  Riding  hurriedly  to 
the  house  of  the  Dutch  Consul  at  Sabanella, 
whose  picture  he  had  taken  one  day  at  Baran- 
quilla,  .DeMilt  borrowed  his  boat,  and  hiring  a 
crew  of  natives,  pulled  out  toward  the  vessel,  in 
the  hope  of  overtaking  it  before  she  could  make 
an  offing.  Just  as  she  was  making  the  last  tack 
De Milt's  boat  pulled  alongside.  He  boarded 
the  vessel,  a  brig,  whose  first  officer  hailed  from 
Machias,  Me.,  hoisted  up  his  effects,  among 
which  were  a  monkey  and  a  tropical — a  rare  bird 
of  South  America — and  the  natives  pulled  back 
for  the  shore.  The  captain  of  the  brig  did  not 
want  to  take  DeMilt  after  all  the  trouble,  but 
there  was  no  help  for  it  now,  and  she  steered 
away  for  New  York.  The  passage  was  a  fear- 
fully vexatious  one.  The  vessel  was  short  of 
provisions,  was  beset  with  contrary  winds,  and 
was  beaten  back  for  three  days  after  sighting 
Sandy  Hook,  short  of  food,  and  with  all  hands 
at  the  pumps. 

DeMilt   got   his   monkey,  his   bird,  and  his 
trunks  off  the  vessel  at  New  York,  and  vowed 


220       THE  LIFE,  TRAVELS.  AND  ADVENTURES 

that  after  his  trials  on  this  voyage,  and  his  ex- 
periences in  Colombia,  he  would  start  off  no 
more  on  wild  goose  chases  in  outlandish  coun- 
tries, and  he  kept  his  word. 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  22I 


CHAPTER  XXIX. 

Settling  down  to  Work — Business  Travels — Breaking  out 

of  the  War — New  Orleans — The  Crescent  City  Guards 

— Marriage  of  the  Wanderer — Meets  an  old  49-er — 

Finds  his  Sister  after  a  Separation  of  Twenty-nine  Years 

-Conclusion. 

WHEN  DeMilt  arrived  in  New  York  after  his 
hair-brained  and  unprofitable  expedition  to  New 
Granada,  he  made  up  his  mind  to  settle  down 
to  some  legitimate  occupation,  and  to  roam  no 
more.  He  was  still  a  young  man,  compara- 
tively speaking,  with  his  life  before  him,  and 
already  possessed  of  an  enviable  record  as  a 
business  man.  He  was  employed  again  in  the 
service  of  his  kinsman,  the  twine  dealer,  for 
whom  he  had  worked  before  going"  to  California 
for  the  third  time.  DeMilt  transacted  a  heavy 
business,  and  travelled  extensively  for  some 


222       THE  LIFE,   TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

years,  in  this  line  of  trade,  and  opened  a  branch, 
house  in  New  Orleans. 

This  business  venture  promised  splendid 
results,  but  the  breaking  out  of  the  war,  and  de- 
moralization of  trade  attendant  upon  that  event, 
placed  everything  at  a  standstill.  The  recruit- 
ing of  men  to  swell  the  armies  of  the  South 
progressed  rapidly,  and  DeMilt  participated  in 
the  organization  of  the  Crescent  City  Guards, 
one  of  the  first  military  companies  formed  in 
New  Orleans,  and  was  elected  captain  of  the 
company.  He  resigned  his  office  in  the  Crescent 
City  Guards,  and  joined  the  Confederate 
Guards,  an  aristocratic  company,  composed  of 
bankers,  brokers,  merchants,  and  others.  Dr. 
Palmer,  an  eminent  Presbyterian  divine  of  New 
Orleans,  was  its  chaplain. 

DeMilt  ran  the  blockade  to  New  York  and 
back  again,  in  company  with  a  young  lady,  to 
whom  he  had  been  asked  to  act  as  escort,  in 
those  dangerous  times.  Soon  after  his  return 
he  was  invited  to  and  attended  a  soiree  on 
Prytania  Street,  at  which  he  became  ac- 
quainted with  the  young  lady  whom  he  after- 
wards made  his  wife,  Miss  Clara,  daughter  of 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  223 

^  Judge  Lockett.  She  had  just  returned  from 
travelling  in  Europe,  under  the  protection  of  the 
Russian  Consul,  and  was  a  very  beautiful  young 
lady.  Her  mother  was  the  remarkable  descen- 
dant of  a  remarkable  family,  as  the  following, 
from  a  newspaper  of  Tallahassie,  Fla.,  published 
just  after  her  death,  in  1882,  at  the  house  of 
Col.  DeMilt,  will  show: 

"  Amelie  Fontenelle  Lockett,  notice  of  whose 
death  appeared  in  last  week's  Economist,  was  a 
native  of  Louisiana,  and  a  direct  descendant  of 
a  powerful  family  of  the  French  nobility,  a 
daughter,  if  we  are  correctly  informed,  of  the 
Marquis  de  Fontenelle — a  nobleman  of  great 
wealth  and  character,  whose  property  was  con- 
tiguous to  the  city  of  Marseilles — but  who,  in 
all  probability,  had  sought,  like  many  others, 
either  health  or  increased  fortune  on  the  fertile 
shores  of  New  France. 

"  The  family  was  in  every  respect  a  remark- 
able one.  A  young  and  adventurous  brother  of 
Mrs.  Lockett,  who  left  his  Louisiana  home  at 
the  early  age  of  sixteen,  to  embark  in  the  peril- 
ous fur  trade  of  the  far  West,  in  his  traffic  with 
the  red  men  was  deeplysmitten  with  the  charms 


224       TI/K  LIFE,  TRAVELS  A.VD  ADVENTURES 

of  a  young  Indian  maiden  of  rank  in  the  then 
powerful  Omaha  tribe.  After  a  romantic 
wooing,  like  a  great  many  others,  he  determined 
to  make  her  his  wife — and  the  twain  were 
united  by  Father  DeSmet,  the  courageous 
missionary  and  priest,  whose  name  is  a  house- 
hold word  in  most  homes  west  of  the  Missouri. 
The  issue  of  that  marriage  was  Logan  Fon- 
tenelle,  successively  warrior,  hunter,  scout  and 
Chief  of  his  powerful  tribe.  No  word  of  praise 
need  be  spoken  of  Logan  Fontenelle  to  those 
who  have  ever  heard  of  the  name.  A  large  and 
thriving  city  in  East  Nebraska  is  his  monument 
and  bears  his  name.  Renowned  for  his  courage, 
and  for  his  kindness  and  hospitality  to  the 
whites  in  their  most  critical  time  in  the  West, 
he  was  admired  and  loved  by  all  from  the 
Missouri  to  the  Rockies.  He  was  killed  in 
battle  about  the  year  '54,  on  a  high  bluff  over- 
looking the  Missouri  River — a  spot  where  many 
pleasant  hours  have  been  spent  by  the  writer 
and  a  spot  which  neither  he  nor  any  one 
who  has  seen  it  will  be  likely  to  forget. 

"  Mrs.  Lockett  wras  a  lady  of  striking  appear- 
ance, and  the  merest   novice   in   physiognomy 


OF    AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  22$ 

could  not  have  failed  to  detect  in  her 
countenance  the  traces  of  the  great  strength  of 
character  which  she  possessed  to  the  last.  She 
was  a  thorough  gentlewoman  of  the  old  French 
type,  and  spoke  very  little  English." 

DeMilt  invested  considerable  money  in  cot- 
ton, sugar,  and  molasses.  This  property  was 
all  destroyed  by  fire  on  the  capture  of  New 
Orleans,  by  General  Butler.  After  another  visit 
to  New  York  we  find  him  engaged  in  a  wealthy 
wholesale  house,  and  doing  a  large  business. 
He  subsequently  engaged  in  business  for 
himself  in  the  Creole  Capital,  and  met 
with  Andrew  Bradley,  with  whom  he  had 
crossed  the  plains  in  '49.  They  had  mar- 
ried sisters  unknown  to  one  another — and  met 
after  sixteen  years  as  brothers-in-law.  In  the 
financial  crisis  of  '67  DeMilt  lost  heavily,  failed 
in  business,  and  took  up  again  his  old  trade  of 
broker.  It  was  at  this  time  that  DeMilt  acci- 
dentally met  with  the  name  of  a  firm  of 
paper  dealers,  in  New  York,  and  formed,  in 
quite  a  remarkable  manner,  a  connection  with 
that  house,  which  has  existed  to  this  day. 


226       THE  LIFE,  TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

Soon  after  entering  upon  his  duties  as 
Southern  agent  for  this  house,  DeMilt  obtained 
a  clue  to  the  whereabouts  of  his  sister,  Eliza- 
beth, whom  he  had  not  seen  for  twenty-nine 
years,  and  whom  he  had  left,  an  infant,  in  charge 
of  old  Mother  Randall,  at  the  Rabais*  shop  in 
Fort  Stansberry,  Fla.  Colonel  Jenkins,  an  ex- 
Confederate  officer,  who  had  been  stationed  in 
Florida,  became  acquainted  with  DeMilt  in 
New  Orleans.  In  the  course  of  a  conversation 
concerning  Florida,  DeMilt  recounted  some  of 
his  early  adventures  in  that  State,  and,  of 
course,  spoke  of  his  sister,  and  his  anxiety  con- 
cerning her  fate.  Colonel  Jenkins  gave  DeMilt 
the  names  of  parties  residing  in  Florida,  who, 
he  deemed,  would  be  able  to  furnish  some  in- 
formation concerning  the  lady.  DeMilt  wrote 
forthwith,  and  soon  had  the  great  pleasure  of 
receiving  a  letter  from  his  sister  in  person.  The 
parties  to  whom  DeMilt  ha  1  written  had  placed 
his  letter  in  her  hands.  The  brother  and  sister 
soon  met — after  a  separation  of  more  than  a 
quarter  of  a  century — within  a  few  miles  of  the 
locality  where  they  had  parted  so  long  ago. 
DeMilt's  sister  died  two  years  after  their  meet- 


OF  AN  AMERICAN  WANDERER.  227 

ing.  She  had  married,  some  six  or  eight  years 
before,  William  J.  Stewart,  a  descendant  of 
Commodore  Stewart,  of  "  Old  Ironsides  "  and 
revolutionary  fame.  Her  husband  died  within 
a  year  of  the  time  of  DeMilt's  visit,  leaving  her 
a  widow  with  five  children.  These  children,  at 
the  death  of  Mrs.  Stewart,  were  taken  by  Colonel 
DeMilt,  and  four  of  them  are  in  his  charge  to- 
day, the  eldest  having  died. 


With  this  brief  record  of  the  ups  and  downs 
in  the  life  of  our  hero,  subsequent  to  his  adven- 
tures in  New  Granada,  our  sketch  draws  to  a 
close.  We  take  leave  of  the  Wanderer  now,  at 
his  sunny  southern  home,  within  a  few  hours' 
journey  of  the  spot  where,  forty-two  years 
previous,  his  adventures  began,  and  where  this 
narrative  takes  him  up,  an  orphan  lad,  without 
a  friend,  and  thousands  of  miles  from  a  relation, 
at  old  Port  Leon  and  the  Lighthouse  of  St. 
Mark's.  Though  lately  stricken  with  the  loss  of 
his  wife,  and  the  mother  of  his  children,  and  with 
an  increasing  load  of  years  and  cares,  his  strong 


228       THE  LIFE,   TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 

face  yet  bears  the  impress  of  his  remarkable 
life,  and  his  eye  still  brightens  at  the  recollec- 
tion of  the  stirring  struggles  for  life  and 
fortune  in  the  early  years  of  the  AMERICAN 
WANDERER. 


FINIS. 


\July,  i883. 


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Pelham. 

Zanoni. 


Godolphin. 

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Also  see  LYTTON,  LORD. 

Bunyan  (John). 

The  Pilgrim's  Progress  from  this  World  to  that  which  is  to 
come,  delivered  under  the  similitude  of  a  dre;im.  By  JOHN  BUNYAN. 
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DISCRIPTIVE  CATALOGUE. 


Burns  (Robert). 

The  complete  Poetical  Works  of  ROBERT  BURNS,  to  which  is 

added  his  correspondence.      Large,  cle.ir  type,  new  plates.      Red   Line 
Edition,     i  vol.,  iimo,  handsomely  bound  in  cloth,  gilt,  gilt  edges.. $i  25 

Burns  is  by  far  the  greatest  poet  that  ever  sprung  from  the  bosom  of  the 
people.  He  was  born  a  poet,  if  ever  man  was,  and  his  rank,  as  FSyron  said.  "  is 
the  first  in  his  art."  He  possessed  all  the  essentials  of  a  poet's  great  humor, 
great  powers  of  description,  great  discrimination  of  character,  and  great  pathos. 
His  conceptions  are  all  original,  h's  thoughts  new,  and  his  style  unbor rowed. 
His  language  is  familiar,  yet  dignified,  careless,  yet  concise  ;  he  sheds  a  re- 
deeming light  on  all  he  touches,  and  whatever  he  glances  at  rises  into  life  and 
beauty.  His  -variety  is  equal  to  his  originality.  It  is  as  infinite  as  his  power 
in  expression,  and  the  result  of  these  combined  faculties  has  been  such  verse  as 
the  world  will,  in  all  liklihood.  never  see  again.  Longajter  more  pretentious 
rhyme  writers  have  been  forgotten,  the  poet  of  the  fields  and  of  the  cotter's  cabin 
will  be  quoted  wherever  the  language  he  became  illustrious  in  is  known. 

Byron,  Lord. 

The  complete  Poetical  Works  of  LORD  BYRON,  printed  in  clear  type 
on  good  paper.  Red  Line  Edition,  i  vol.,  i2mo,  illustrated,  cloth  gilt, 
gilt  edges $i  25 

"  In  the  United  States,  Byron  will  ahi'ays  occupy  a  high  place  as  the  poet  of 
the  passions,  and  it  is  said,  t'tat  after  Shakespeare  he  is  the  most  popular  of  the 
English  poets.  The  least  successful  of  By  rail's  productions,  notwithstanding  the 
admirable  passages  with  which  they  abound,  are  his  tragedies  ;  the  work  that 
gives  us  the  highest  notion  of  his  genius,  poiner  and  versatility  is  his  DON  JUAN 
The  Don  is  at  times  free  and  almost  obscene,  and  the  whole  tendency  of  the  poem 
may  be  considered  immoral;  but  there  are  scattered  throughout  it  the  most 
exquisite  pieces  of  writing  and  feeling — inimitable  blendings  of  wit,  humor, 
raillery  andpathos,  ami  by  far  the  finest  verses  Byron  ever  wrote.  He  maybe 
said  to  have  created  this  manner;  for  the  Bernesco  style  of  the  Italians,  to 
which  it  has  been  compared,  is  not  like  it.'' — Life  and  Literary  Labors  <?/"Ix>RD 
BYRON. 

Bush  (Rev.  James  S.) 

More  Words  About  the  Bible.   By  Rev.  JAMES  BUSH,    i  vol., 

I2mo,  paper  covers,  Lovell's  Library,  No.  113 20  cts. 

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Library,  No.  100,  per  volume 15  cts. 

Tritons.     By  E.  LASSETER  BYNNER,     2  vols.,    i6mo,  Lovell's 

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"  Cavendish." 

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Campbell  (Thomas). 

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I  do  not  think  I  overrate  the  merits  of  the  ^  Pleasures  of  Hope."  whether 
taking  it  in  its  parts,  or  as  a.  whole,  in  preferring  it  to  any  didactic  poem  in 
the  Rnglish  language.  No  poet  at  such  au  age  ever  produced  such  an  exquisite 
specimen  of  poetical  mastery;  that  is.  of  fine  conception  and  of  high  art 
combined.  Sentiments  tender,  energetic,  impassioned,  eloquent,  majestic,  ai e 
conveyed  to  the  reader  in  the  tones  of  a  music  forever  varied,  sinking  or  swelling 
like  the  harmonies  of  an  sEolian  lyre,  yet  ever  delightful ;  and  these  are  illus- 
trated by  pictures  from  romance,  history,  or  domestic  life,  replete  with  power 
and  beauty. — MOIR'S  Lectures  on  Poetry. 

Cliaiicer  (G-eoffrey). 

The  Poetical  Works  of  GEOFFREY   CHAUCER,    with   Memoir. 

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Chaucer  has  well  been  called  the  father  of  English  poetry.  In  elocution 
and  eloquence,  in  gra  e  and  harmony  of  versification,  he  surpassed  all  his  pre- 
decessors, at'd  for  the  first  time  in  English  literature  created  verse  -which  was 
true  poetry,  not  mere  doggrelrhyme.  His  genius  was  universal,  and  the  themes 
he  exercised  it  in,  consequently,  of  boundless  variety.  He  painted  familiar 
manners  with  the  touch  of  a  master,  which  to  this  day  impresses  the  reader  of 
the  pages  penned  five  centuries  ago  with  the  haunting  idea  that  the  poet's  char- 
acters are  alive  and  moving  in  a  pageant  before  him.  His  humor  was  as  natu- 
ral and  unforced  as  his  pathos  was  deep,  his  sentiment  pure,  and  his  passion 
Jiery  and  genuine.  It  was  Coleridge  who  said  of  Chaucer,  "/  take  unceasing 
delight  in  him.  His  manly  cheerfulness  is  especially  delicious  to  me  in  my  old 
age.  HOIU  exquisitely  tender  he  is,  yet  ho7t>  perfectly  free  from  the  least  touch 
of  sickly  melancholy  or  morbid  drooping."  The  verdict  of  Coleridge  has  been 
the  verdict  of  the  whole  reading  world. 

Child's  History  of  England. 

Child's  History  of  England.    By  CHARLES  DICKENS.  A  New 

Edition  for  the  use  of  Schools.     With  numerous  illustrations.     Printed  from 

large  type,  illustrated,  x  vol.,  izmo $i  oo 

Also,  in  Lovell's  Library,  No.  75 20  cts 

Charles  Dickens  wrote  the  Child's  History  of  England  for  his  own  children, 
because  as  he  himself  says,  he  could  find  nothing  in  the  whole  line  of  English 
histories  just  suitable  for  them;  at  a  time  when  they  were  beginning  to  read 
with  interest  and  profit,  but  not  sufficiently  advanced  to  take  up  the  great 
standard  authors.  It  was  a  labor  of  love,  and  had  been  well  appreciated  by  the 
multitudes  of  young  people  who  hazie  gained  their  first  knowledge  of  history 
from  this  delightful  little  volume.  It  is  written  in  the  most  pure  and  simple 
language,  and  has  for  young  readers  all  the  picturesque  and  vivid  interest  that 
o»e  of  the  author's  novels  possesses  for  the  older  ones.  All  the  great  characters 
of  English  history  become  as  familiar,  and  produce  as  permanent  impressions, 
as  the  heroes  of  the  A  rabian  Nights  and  of  the  other  favorite  books  of  childhood. 
It  is  not  only  indispensable  in  every  household  where  any  care  at  all  is  bestowed 
upon  the  education  of  children,  but  is  also  one  of  the  best  brief  and  compendious 
histories  of  England  for  all  classes  of  readers. 

Also  see  DICKENS  (CHARLES). 


DISCRTPTIVE  CA TALOGUE. 


Californians  and  Mormons. 

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Chavasse  (Pye  Henry). 

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on  the  Treatment  of  some  of  the  Complaints  Incidental  to  Pregnancy,  etc.' 
and  Advice  to  a  Mother  on  the  Management  of  her  Children,  and  on  the 
Treatment  on  the  Moment  of  some  of  their  more  Pressing  Illness  s  and 
Accidents.  Hy  PYE  HENRY  CHAVASSE.  600  pages,  lamo,  cloth,,  extra,  $i  oo 

Children  of  the  Abbey. 

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Of  a!l  the  once  popular  turuels  of  this  once  famous  novelist,  the  "  Children 
cf  the  Abbey"  alone  remains.  Front  the  time  of  its  first  republication  in  this 
country  it  has  retained  its  place  in  popular  favor.  No  better  example  of  the 
novel  of  our  grandfathers  could  be  found,  and  few  more  interesting  ones  are 
written  in  these  dnys  of  the  grandchildren, 

Coleridge  (Samuel  Taylor). 

The  Poetical  Works  of  SAMUEL  TAYLOR  COLERIDGE.     With  an 

introduction  and   Memoir.     Red   Line  Edition.     I  vol.,   izmo,  cloth,  gilt- 
edges $i  25 

Of  all  the  illustrious  English  men  of  letters,  Coleridge,  with  his  spacious 
intellect,  his  subtle  and  comprehensive  intelligence,  holds  rank  with  the  first. 
As  a  poet  he  will  live  with  the  language.  On  his  incomparable  ''  Genevieve  " 
he  has  lavished  all  the  melting  graces  of  poetry  and  chivalry;  in  his  "Ancient 
Mariner'"1  he  has  sailed,  and  in  his  '''Christabel*  flown  to  the  very  limits  of  in- 
vention andl'elief  ;  and  in  his  chant  of ''''Fire,  Famine  and  Slaughter"  he  has 
revived  the  startling  strains  of  the  furies,  and  given  us  a  song  worthy  the 
prime  agents  of  perdition. 

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The  Moonstone.     By  WILKIE  COLLINS,     i  vol.,  i2mo,  clothi 

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paper ' 50  cts. 

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8  JOHN"  IV.   LOVELL   COMPANY'S 

Cooper  (J.  Fenimore). 

The  Last  of  the  Mohicans:  A  Narrative  of  1757.  By  J. 
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gilt SIOQ 

paper %....socts. 

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Cowper  (William). 

The  complete  Poetical  Works  of  WILLIAM  COWFER.  Printed 
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Edition,  i  vol.,  limo,  cloth,  black  and  gold,  gilt  edges Si  25 

Cowper  was  the  poet  of  well  educated  and  well  principled  England.  Hi* 
muse  •mas  as  pure  as  Itis  style,  and  his  life  conformed  to  both.  His  '"Task"  is  it 
poem  of  such  infinite  variety  that  it  seems  to  include  all  possible  subjects.  It 
contains  pictures  of  domestic  comfort  and  social  refinement  which  can  only  lit 
forgotten  with  the  language  itself. 

Crabbe  (G-eorge). 

The  Poetical  Works  of  GEORGE  CRABBE.      Red  Line   Edition. 

i  vol.,  izmo,  illustrated,  cloth,  gilt,  gilt  edges , §i  z^ 

Dr.  yohnson,  to  whom  Crabbers  first  poem,  "  The  Village"  was  submitted1, 
pronounced  it  *•  original,  vigorous  and  elegant."  The  public  endorsed  the  great 
lexicographer's  opinion,  and  Crabbe  deserved  it.  His  genius  was  essentially 
analytic  and  humane.  He  had  a  mortal  hatred  of  wrong,  and  was  never  so 
active  as  when  laying- it  bare  to  the  world. 


Dante  Alighieri. 


The  Vision  of  Hell,    Purgatory,    and  Paradise,    of  DANTE 

ALIGHIERT,  Translated  by  the  Rev.  Henry  Francis  Gary,  A.  M.  With  the 
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Of  all  the  translations  of  Dante,  Gary's  has  been  conceded  the  most  success- 
ful. It  is  executed  with  perfect  fidelity  and  admirable  skill.  Tt  would  be 
impossiblle  to  transfer  the  lines  of  the  great  Italian  poet  into  our  lang  uage  with 
any  closer  preservation  of  their  beauties  of  rhythm  and  meaning' than  Mr. 
Cary  has  succeeded  in  accomplishing. 

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DISCRIPTIVE  CATALOGUE. 


Dickens-Collins  Xmas  Stories. 

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DICKONS  and  WILKIE  COLLINS,     i  vol.,  izrao,  cloth,  black  and  gold,  $i  oo 

Dickers  (Charles). 

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II.  David  Copperfield. 

III.  Martin  Ohuzzlewit. 

IV.  Nicholas  Nickleby. 


V.  Bleak  House. 
VI.  Little  Dorrit. 
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VIII.  Our  Mutual  Friend. 


IX.  Oliver  Twist,  Pictures  from  Italy,  and  American  Notes. 
X.   Old  Curiosity  Shop  and  Hard  Times. 
XI.  Tale  of  Two  Cities  and  Sketches  by  Boz. 
XII.  Barnaby  Rudge  and  Mystery  of  Edwin  Drood. 
XIII.   Great    Expectations,      Uncommercial     Traveller,     and 

Miscellaneous. 

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Don  Quixote  de  la  Mancha. 

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Dryden  (John). 


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lo  JOHN  IV.   LOVELL   COMPANY'S 

To  read  him  if  as  bracing  as  a  northwest  mind.     He  bloivs  the  mind  clear. 
In  ripeness  and  bluff  heartiness  of  expression  he  takes  rank  with  the  best.     . 
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one  of  a-  very  sma.il  company. — John  Russell  Lowell. 

" Duchess"  (The). 

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I.  Molly  Bawn. 
II.  Phyllis. 

III.  Airy  Fairy  Lilian. 

IV.  Faith  and  Unfaith. 


V.  Beauty's  Daughters. 
VI.  Portia,  or  by  Passions 

Rocked. 
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Eliot  (George),  Works  of 

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I.  Middlemarch. 
II.  Daniel  Deronda. 
HI.  Romola. 
IV.  Felix  Holt. 


V.  Adam  Bede. 
VI.  The  Mill  on  the  Floss. 
VII.  Scenes  from  Clerical  Life 
and  Silas  Marner. 


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Theophrastus  Such. 

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Erratic  Enrique. 

See  LUKENS  (H.  C.) 


Df SCRIPT!  VE  CA  TAL  O  G  UE. 


English.  Men  of  Letters. 

English  Men  of  Letters,  edited  by  JOHN  MORLEY.     A  series  of 

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Vol.  I.  contains 
Burns,  by  Principal  Shairp. 
Byron,  by  Professor  Nichol. 
Milton,  by  Mark  Pattison. 
Shelley,  by  J.  A.  Symonds. 

Vol.  II.  contains 
Chaucer,  by  Prof.  A.  W.  Ward. 
Cowper,  by  Goldwin  Smith. 
Pope,  by  Leslie  Stephen. 
Southey,  by  Prof.  Dowden. 

Volume  V 


Vol.  III.  contains 
Bunyan,  by  J.  A.  Froude. 
Spenser,  by  the  Dean  of  St.  Paul's. 
Locke,  by  Thomas  Fowler. 
Wordsworth,  by  F.  Myers. 

Vol.  IV.  contains 
Burke,  by  John  Morley. 
Gibbon,  l>y  J.  C.  Morison. 
Hume,  by  Prof.  Huxley. 
Johnson,  by  Leslie  Stephen, 
contains 


Defoe,  by  William  Minto. 
Goldsmith^  by  William  Black. 
Scott,  by  R.  H.  Hutton. 
Thackeray,  by  Anthony  Trollope. 

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DISCRIPTIVE  CATALOGUE.  13 

Gaboriau  (Emile). 

The  Works  of  the  celebrated  French  writer  now  first  issued  in 
uniform  izmo  volumes,  printed  from  large,  clear  type,  attractively  bound. 


I.  Monsieur  Lecoq. 

II.  The  Lerouge  Case. 

III.  The  Gilded  Clique. 


IV.  In  Peril  of  His  Life. 
V.   Other  People's  Money. 
VI.   The  Mystery  of  Orcival. 


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G-oethe  (Johann  Wolfgang  Von). 

The  Poetical  Works  of  JOHANN  W.  VON  GOETHE.     Red  Line 

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Red  Line  Edit  on.     i  vol.,  i2mo,  cloth,  red  edges i  oo 

Goethe's  Faust.    By  JOHANN  WOLFGANG  VON  GOETHE.    Red 

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Gore  (Mrs.) 

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most  finished  and  noble  poems  iver  written.  His  Deserted  tillage  is  a  master- 
piece, full  of  an  accuracy  of  nature,  in  one  of  its  sweetest  phases,  and  a  pro- 
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places,  that  of  the  family  and  the  fireside.  She  shows  high  sentiment  and 
heoric  feeling  now  and  then,  but  her  affections  are  with  the  gentle,  the  meek 
and  the  wounded  in  spirit.  £>he  is  the  authoress  of  many  a  plaintive  and 
mournful  strain,  and  her  poetry  throughout  is  intensely  feminine.  "  He  r  best 
songs"  as  Allan  Cunningham  wrote,  'have  been  rightly  namedof  the  affections* 

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DISCRIPTIVE  CATALOGUE.  15 

Herbert  (G-eorge). 

The  works  of  GEORGE  HERBERT  in  prose  and  verse,  edited  from 

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The  poems  of  George  Herbert  have  stood  the  crucial  test  of  two  centuries  of 
criticisms  and  come  out  pure  gold.  With  their  intense  devotional  feeling;  they 
combine  a  quaint  sweetness  of  expression  and  an  earnest  fluency  of  diction  which 
lend  them  a  charm  peculiarly  their  own.  His  homlier  poems,  those  on  which  the 
ingenuity  of  his  cultivated  mind  was  not  lavished,  but  which  were  thrown  ojf 
as  the  spontaneous  productions  of  his  unconventional  muse.  A  model  of  a  man 
and  a  clergyman,  Herbert  may  almost  be  held  up  as  a  model  of  a  poet  too. 

Homer. 

The  Odyssey  of  Homer.    Translated  by  ALEXANDER  POPE, 

with  notes  and  introduction  by  the  Rev.  T.  A.  BUCKLEY,  M.A.,  F.S.A. 
Red  Line  Edition.  With  Flaxman's  Designs.  I  vol.,  I2rao,  cloth,  black 
and  gold,  gilt  edges $125 

The  Iliad  of  Homer.     Translated  by  ALEXANDER  POPE,  with 

notes  and  introduction  by  the  Rev.  T.  A.  BUCKLEY,  M.A.,  F.S.A.  Red 
Line  Edition.  With  Flaxman's  Designs,  i  vol.,  lamo,  cloth,  black  and 
gold,  gilt  edges §i  25 

Pope's  translation  of  the  Iliad  was  unquestionably  the  greatest  literary 
labor  ever  executed.  Dr,  Johnson  pronounced  it  the  noblest  version  of  poetry 
the  world  had  ever  seen,  and  called  it  a  treasure  of  poetical  elegance.  It  is  in 
fact  a  marvelous  work  for  purity  of  language  and  grace  of  style.  There  hnve 
been  more  faithful  translations  of  Homer  in  the  literal  sense,  but  none  which 
approached  that  pf  Pope  in  literary  value. 

Hood  (Thomas). 

The  choice  works  of  THOMAS  HOOD,  in  Prose  and  Verse,  includ- 
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Hood's  verse,  whether  serious  or  comic,  is  ever  pregnant  with  materials  for 
thoughts.  Like  every  author  distinguished  for  tt  ue  comic  humor,  there  is  a  deep 
vein  of  melanclioly  pathos  running  through  his  mirth.  The  same  genius  that 
created  the  Lost  Boy  gave  birth  to  the  Song  of  the  Shirt,  the  Bridge  of  Sighs, 
and  the  Dream  of  Kugene  Aram.  While  his  lighter  works  bristle  with  wit  and 
fine  sarcasm,  his  serious  ones  are  pregnant  with  such  tenderness  and  such  sense 
of  nature,  animate  and  inanimate,  as  few  poets  have  erer  peered. 

Huntley  (Stanley). 

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Paper 5°  cts. 

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Hood  (Paxton). 

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Houdin  (Robert). 

The  Tricks  of  the  Greeks  Unveiled ;  or,  The  Art  of  Win- 
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Ingelow  (Jean). 

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clear  type,  on  good  paper.     Red  Line  Edition,     i  vol.,  121110.     Illustrated, 
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The  world  his  seen  fern  sweeter  singers  than  Jean  Ingelow.  Her  poetical 
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of  nature  has  found  vent  in  simple  lays  which  have  stolen  their  ways  to  num- 
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order  of  picturesqueness  and  art. 

Ivanhoe. 

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the  fifople  who  moved  in  it,  of  Richard  Cteur  de  Lion  and  his  brave  paladins, 
that  has  not  read  Ivanhoe." 

James  (G-.  P.  R) 

One  Volume  Edition.  Containing  a  selection  of  the  best  novels 
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One  in  a  Thousand. 

Richelieu. 

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fall.  The  classic  purity  of  their  language,  the  force  and  perspicuity  of  their 
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they  evince,  place  these  Celebrated  epistles  in  the  first  rank  oj  English  literature. 


Philip  Augustus. 

The  Gypsy. 

The  Ancient  Regime. 


DISCRIPTIVE  CATALOGUE.  17 

Keats  (John). 

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In  his  Endymion  Keats  created  a  work  which  the  critics  have  not  done  dis~ 
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startling,  novel,  and  fantastically  beautiful  epics  which  the  muse  of  any  modern 
mortal  ever  formed  a.  conception  of.  Two  works  in  which  Keats  is  seen  to 
his  best  advantage  are  his  Lamia  and  Isabella.  These,  as  ivell  as  his  minor 
poems,  are  all  included  in  the  above  edition. 

Kingsley  (Charles). 

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Knight  (Charles). 

Popular  History  of  England,  from  the  landing  of  Julius 

Caesar  to  the  death  of  Prince    Albert.     By  CHARLES  KNIGHT.     Lib- 
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Knighfs  History  of  England  has  taken  its  place  among  the  standard  chron- 
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Kellogg  (Edward). 

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Kennedy  (John  P.) 

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Kingston  (William  H.  G-.) 

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r8  JOHN  W.  LOVELL  COMPANY'S 

Life  and  Letters  of  Lord  Macaulay. 

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The  personality  of  Macanlay  is  marked  in  his  written  life  as  clearly  as  he 
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fragments  of  the  great  chronicler's  work  thus  rescued  from  oblivion,  are  a  mine 
of  interest.  The  reader  to  whom  Macaulay  the  litterateur  has  become  familiar 
through  his  own  productions,  will  never  know  Macaulay  the  man  until  he 
learns  him  through  the  medium  of  his  nephew'' s  pen  picture. 

Longfellow  (H.  W.)  Works 

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Linton  (Mrs.  E.  Lynn). 

lone  Stewart.      By  Mrs.  E.  LYNN  LINTON.      i  vol.,   i2mo, 

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i     "         "        Lovell's  Library 20  cts. 

Lamb  (Charles). 

The  Complete  Works,  in  Prose  and  Verse,  of  CHARLES  LAMB, 

from  the  original  edition,  with  the  cancelled  passages  restored,  and  many 
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edges $i  23 

Last  Days  of  Pompeii. 

See  LORD  LYTTON. 

Last  of  the  Mohicans. 

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Lee  (Margaret). 

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Also  in  paper  Covers,  Lovell's  Library,  No.  25 20  cts. 


DISCRIPTIVE  CATALOGUE.  19 

Lovell's  Library, 

1.  Hyperion,  by  H.  W.  Longfellow... 20  45.  Alice,  or,  the  Mysteries,  being  Part 

2.  Outre  Mer,  by  H.  \V.  Long: ell >w... 20'  II  of  Ernest  Maitravers 20 

3.  The  Happy  Boy,  by  Bjornson 10  46.  Duke  of  Kandos,  by  A.  Maithey...20 

4.  Arne,  by  Bjiirnson 10  47.  Baron  Munchausen 10 

5.  Frankenstein;  or.  the  Modern  Pro-        48.  A  Princess  of  Thule.  by  Wm.  Black. 20 

metheus,  by  Mrs.  Shelley 10  49.  The  Secret  Despatch,  by  Grant 20 

6.  The  Last  of  the  Mohicans,  by  J.        50.  Early  Days  of  Christianity,  by  Can- 

Femmore   Cooper 20  on  Farrar,  D,D.,   Parti 20 

7.  Clytie,   by  Joseph   Hatton 20  [        Early  Days  of  Christianity,  by  Can- 

8.  The  Moonsione,  by  Collins,  Pt  I..  10:  on  Farrar,  D.D.,  Part  II 20 

9.  The  Moonstone,  by  Collins,  P  til.  10  51.  Vicar  of  Wakefield,  by  Oliver  Gold- 

10.  Oliver  Twist,  by  Charles  Dickens  20  smith ;10 

11.  Tho  Coming  Race,  by  Lytton 10  52.  Progress  and  Poverty,   by  Henry 

12.  Leila,  by  Lord  Lytton 10  i  George  20 

13.  The  Three  Spaniards,  by  Walker.. 20  53.  The  Spy,  by  J.  Fenimore  Cooper... 20 

14.  The  Tricks  of  the  Greeks  Unveiled;       154.  East  Lynne.  by  Mrs.  Henry  Wood.20 

or,  the  Art  of  Winning  at  every       1 55.  A  Strange  Story,  by  Lord  Lvtton.  .20 
Game,  by  Robert  Houd'n 20  56.  Adttn  Bede,  by  Geo.  Eliot,  Part  I.. 15 

15.  L' Abbe    Conetantin,    by  Ha!6vy..20l        Adam  Bede,  by  Geo.  Eliot,  Part  II.  .15 

16.  Freckles,  by  R.  F.  Redcliff 20  57.  The    Golden    Shaft,    by   Gibbon. 20 

17.  The  Dark  Colleen,  by  H  irriett  Jay  .20  58.  Portia,  or,  By  Passions  Rocked,  by 
la.  They  Were  Married  !  by  Walter  Be-  The  Duchess 20 

sant  and  James  Rico 10  59.  Last  Days  of  Pompeii,  by  Lytton. 20 

19.  Seekers  after  God,  by  Canon  Farrar.  20  60.  TheT*o  Duchesses,  being  these- 

20.  The  Spanish  Nun,  by  Thop.  De  qiielto  the  Duke  of  Kandos,  by 

Quincey 10  A.  Mathey 20 

21.  The    Green    Mountain    Boy?,   by       1 61.  Tom  Brown's  School  Days  at  Rug- 

Judge  D.  P.  Thompson 20  by 20 

22.  Fleurette,  by  Eugene  Scribe 20  C2.  The  Wooing  O't,  by  Mrs.  Alexander, 


23.  Second      Thoughts,     by     Rhoda 

Broughton 20 

24.  The   New    Magdalen,    by    Wilkie 

Collins 20 


Part  I 15 

The  Wooing  O't,  by  Mrs.  Alexander, 
Part   II 15 

63.  The  Vendetta,  Ta:es  of  Love  and 


25.  Divorce,  by  Margaret  Lee  .......  20)  Passion,  by  Honore  de  Balzac..  20 

26.  Life  of   Washington,   by  Henley..  20:  64.  Hypatia,  by  Rev.  Kingsley,  Part  I..15 

27.  Social  Etiquette,  by  Mrs.  W.   A.  Hypatia,  by  Kingelcy,  Part  II.  ...15 

Saville  .......................  15  65.  Sulma,  by  Mrs.  J.  Gregory  Smith.  .15 

88.  Single  Heart  and  Double  Face,  by       J6rt.  Margaret  and    her  Bridesmaids...  20 
Charles  Reade  ..................  10  67.  Horse  Shoe  Robinson,  Parti  .....  15 

29.  Irene,  by  Carl  Detlef  .............  20         Horse  Shoe  Robinson,  Part  II  .....  15 

30.  Vice  Versa;  or,  a  Lesson  to  Fathers,        68.  Gulliver's  Travels,  by  Dean  Swift.  .20 

by  F.  Anstey  ...................  20  69.  Amen  Barton,  by   George  Eliot  ____  10 

81.  Ernest  Maltravers,  by  Lord  Lytton.  20  70.  The  Berber,  by  W.  E.   Mayo  ......  20 

32.  The  Haunted  House  and  Calderon       J71.  Silas  Marner,  by   George  Eliot  ____  10 

the  Courtier,  by  Lord  Lytton..  .^JQ  7'i.  The  Que  -n  of  the    County  .........  20 

33.  John  Halifax,  by  Miss  Miilock  ____  gy  73.  Life  of  Cromwell,  by  Paxton  Hood..l5 

34.  800  Leagues  on  the  Amazon,  being       :74.  Jane  Eyrn.  by  Charlotte  Bronte...  20 

Part   I  of   the    Giant  Raft,  by       j75.  Child's    History    of    England,  by 
Jules  Verne  ..........  ..........  10  Charles  Dickens          .  20 

35.  The  Cryptogram,  being  Part  II  of        76.  Molly  Bawn.  by  The  Duchess  '       .20 


39.  The  Hermits,  by  Kinpstey  .....  "i'SO'sO.  ^ience^n'shorir'ciwpters.  ..     .!!20 

40.  An  Adventure  in  Thule,  and  Mar-       ;81.  Zanoni,  by  Lord  Lytton  ...........  20 

riage  of  Moira  Fergus,  by  Wm.       182.  A  Dauehter  of  Heth,   by  W.  Black.  20 
Black  ......................  10  83.  The  Right  and  Wrons-  USPP  of  the 

41.  A  Marriagein  High  Life,  by  Octave       |  Bible,  by  Rev.  R.  Heber  Ncwton.20 

Feuillet    ......................  20  84,  Night  and  Morning,  by  Lord  Lytton 

42.  Robin,  by  Mrs.  Purr  .............  20!  Parr  I  ...................  ...   ..15 

43.  Twoon  aTowor,  byThomas  Hardy.  SO          N'  eht  and  Morning,  by  Lord  Lytton 

44.  Kasselas,  by  Samuel  Johnson.  .....  10  I  Partll  ........................  14 


JOHNW.  LOVELL  COMPANY'S 


Lovell's  Library— CONTINUED. 

85.  Shan  don  Bolls,  by  William  Black.  20  123. 

86.  Monica,  by  The   Duchess 10  124. 

87.  Heart  and  Science,  by  Wilkie  Col- 

lins  20  125. 

88.  The  Golden  Calf,  by  Miss  M.  E.         126. 

Braddon 20 

89    The    Dean's  Daughter,  by  Mrs.         127. 
Gore    '. 20 

90.  Mrs.  Geoffrey,  by  The  Duchess.. 20  128. 

91.  Pickwick  Papers.  Part  1 20  139. 

Pickwick  Papers,  Part  II 20  1 30. 

92.  Airy  Fairy  Lilian,  by  The  Duchess.  20  181. 

93.  McLeod  o£  Dare,   by  \Vm.  Black. 20: 132. 

94.  Tempest  Tossed,  by  Tilton,  Ft  1. 201 
Tempest  Tossed,  by  Tilton,  P't II. 20  133. 

95.  Letters  from  High  Latitudes,  by 

Lord  Dufferin 20 

96.  Gideon  Fleyce,  by  Henry  W.  Lucy  .20 

97.  India  and  Ceylon,  by  E.  Hseckle..20  134. 

98.  Tho  Gypsy  Queen,   by  Hugh  De        135. 

Normnnd 20 

99.  The    Admiral's    Ward,  by  Mrs.         136. 

Alexander ?0  137. 

100.  Nimport,  by  E.  L.  Bynner,  P't  I..  15  138. 
Niinporr,  by  E.  L.  Bynner,  P't  II. .  15  139. 

101.  Harry  Holbrooke,  by  Sir  H.  Ran-        140. 

dallRoberts 20  141. 

102.  Tritons,  by  E.  Lassetcr  Bynner,         142. 

Parti 15 

Tritons,  by  E.  Lasseter  Bynner,         143, 

Part  II 15  144, 

103  Let  Nothing  You  Dismay,  by  Wal- 
ter Besai.t 10 

104.  Lady  Audley's  Secret,  by  Miss  M. 

E.    Braddon 20  145, 

105.  Woman's  Place  To-Day,  by  Mrs. 

Lillie  Devereux  Blake 20   146 

106.  Dunallan,  by  Kennedy,  Part  I ...  15 
Dunallan,  l»y  Kennedy,  Part  II. .15 

107.  Housekeeping  and  Home-Making, 

by  Marion  Harland 15 

108.  No  New  Thin?,  by  W.  E.  Norris..20 

109.  The  SpoopendykePapers,  by  Stan- 

ley Huntley  20 

110.  False  Hopes,  by  Gold-win   Smith.  .15 

111.  Labor  and  Capital,    by  Edward 

Kellogp 20 

112.  Wanda,  by  Ouida,  Part  1 15 

Wanda,  by  Onida,  Part  II 15 , 

113.  More  Words  About  the  Bible,  by 

Rev.  Jas.  S.  Bush 20 

114.  Monsieur  Lecoq,  byGaboriau.P't  1.20 
MonKienrLecoq.byGab"riau,P't  II  .20 

115.  An  Outline   of  Irish  History,  by 

Jusl  in  H.  McCarthy 10 

llfi.  The  Lerouge  Ca*e,  by  Gaboriau..20 
117.  Paul  Clifford,  by  Lord  Lytton...20 
118  A  New  Lea?e  of  Life,  by  About.  .20 

119.  Bourbon  Lillies 20 

120.  Other  Peoples'  Money,  by  Emile 

Gaboriau 20 

121  TheLsidy  of  Lyons.byLord  Lytton  .10 
122.  Ameline  de  Bourg 15 


147. 

MS. 
149. 

150. 

151. 
152. 
153. 

154. 
155. 
156. 

15S. 

100. 


A  Sea  Qneen,  by  W.  Clark  Russell.  20 
The  Ladies  Lindores,  by  Mrs. 

Oliphant    20 

Haunted  Hearts, by  J.  P.  Simpson.  10 
Loys,  Lord  Beresford,  by  The 

Duchess 20 

Under  Two  Flags,  by  Ouida,  P't  I  20 
Under  Two  Flags,  by  Ouida,P't  11.20 

Money,  by  Lord  Lytton 10 

In  Peril  of  His  Lite,  by  Gaboriau.20 

India,  by  Max    Muller 20 

Jets  and  Hashes 20 

Moonshine  and   Marguerites,   by 

The  Duchess 10 

Mr.    Scarborough's     Family,    by 

Anthony  Trollope,   Part  1 15 

Mr.    Scarborough's     Family,    by 

Anthony  Trollope,   Part  II 15 

Arden,  by  A.  Mary  F.  Roberts...  15 
The  Tower  of  Perccmont,  by 

George   Sand 20 

Yolande,  by  Wm.   Black 20 

Cruel  London,  by  Joseph  Hatton.20 
The  Gilded  Clique,  by  Gaboiiau...20 
Pike  County  Folks,  by  E.  H.  Mott..20 
Cricket  on  the  Hearth.  byDickens.10 

Henry  Esmond,  by  Thackeray 20 

Strange  Adventures  of  a  Phaeton, 

byWm.  Black 20 

Denis  Duval,  by  W.  M. Thackeray.  10 
Old  Curiosity  Shop,  by  Chailes 

Dickens,  Part  I 15 

Old  Curiosity   Shop,  by  Charles 

Dickens,  Part  II 15 

Ivanhoe,  by    Scott,  Part  1 15 

Ivanhoe,  by   Scott,  Part  II  15 

White  Wings,  by   Wm.  Black 20 


The  Sketch  Book,  by  Washington 

Irving  20 

Catherine,  by  W.  M.  Thackeray..  10 
Janet's  Repentance,  by  George 

Eliot 10 

Rarnabj  Rudge,  by  Chas.  Dickens 

Part  1 15 

Barnabj  Rudge,  by  Chas.  Dickens 

Part  II 15 

Felix  Holt,  by  George  Eliot 20 

Richelieu,  by  Lord  Lytton 10 

Sunrise,  by  Wm.  Black,  Part  I 15 

Sunri-e,  by  Wm.  Black,  Part  II..  15 
Tour  of  the  World  in  80  Days,  by 

Jules  Vrrne ...20 

Mysteries  of  Orcival,  by  Emile 

Gaboriau •  0 

Lovel.  The  Widower,  by  W.  M. 

Thackeray 1* 

David  Cojiperfield,  by  Charles 

Dickons,  Part  I *0 

David  Copncrfield,  by  Charles 

Picket,  Part  II £( 

Rienzi.  by  Lord  Lytton.  Part  I...  15 
Rienzi,  by  Lord  Lytton,  Part  II..  15 


DISCRIPTIVE  CATALOGUE. 


21 


Novell's  Library. 

The  two  former  pages  give  the  list  of  LOVELI/S  LIBRARY 
by  numbers,  published  up  to  July  1st.  The  following  is  the  same  list, 
classified  by  authors,  with  the  addition  of  books  in  preparation. 

Books  marked  with  a  *  are  also  published  in  LOVELL'S  POPULAR,  OB 
STANDARD  LIBRARY,  price  $1.00,  handsomely  bound  in  cloth.  When  a 
t  precedes  the  title,  the  work  is  in  preparation,  and  will  be  published 
during  the  Summer. 

CLASSIFIED  CATALOGUE. 


A  New  Lease  of  Life  20 

*That  Beautiful  Wretch.  .  .  .20 

The  Spanish  Nun  10 

Mrs.  ALEXANDER 

•The  Wooing  O't,  Part  I.  .  .15 
"           "         "        "    II...  15 
*The  Admiral's  Ward  20 

F.  ANSTEY. 
"Vice  Versa  ;  or,  a  Lesson 

"White  Wings           20 

CABL  DETLEP. 
Irene,  or  the  Lonely  Manor  20 

CHABLES  DICEENS. 

tA  Christmas  Carol  and  the 
Chimes  15 

•Yolande        20 

LILLI2  DEVEBEUX  BLASE 
Woman's  Place  To-Day.  .  .  .20 
Miss  M.  E.  BEAED01T. 

to  Fathers  20 

Sir  SAMUEL  BAEEB. 
•Cast  up  by  the  Sea  20 

*Lady  Audley's  Secret  20 

CHALOTTE  BBONTE. 

•A  Tale  of  Two  Cities  20 
Barnaby  Rudge,  Part  I.    .  .15 
"              "           "  II.     ..15 
tBleak  House,  Part  I.  .  .    .  .20 

•Eight   Years    Wandering 
in  Ceylon  20 

BHODA  BBOUOHTOH. 

•Child's  History   of   Eng- 

•Rifle  and  Hound  in  Cey- 
lon    20 

David  Copperfleld,  Part  I.  .20 
"  II.  .20 
tDombey  and  Son,  Part  I.  .20 
"II..  20 
tDr.  Marigold,  The  Boy  at 
Mugby,  and  Seven  Poor 
Travellers  10 

HONOEE  BE  BALSAC. 

The  Vendetta,  Tales  of  Love 
and  Passion.  20 

JOHN  BUNYAN. 

WALTEB  BEGA1TT  and 
JAMES  BICE. 

JAMES  S.  BUSH. 
More  Words  about  the  Bible  20 

E.  LASSETEB  BY1INEE 
Nimport,  Part  I  15 

tGreat  Expectations  20 
tHard  Times  20 

tLittle  Dorrit  Part  I             20 

"           "           "  II             20 

t  Martin  Chuzzlewit,  Part  1  .  20 
"  11.20 
tMaster  Humphrey's  Clock  10 
t.Mvstory  of  Edwin  Drood.  20 
tNicholas  Nickleby.  Part  1.20 
"  11.20 
tNo  Thoroughfare  10 

Let  Nothing  You  Dismay.  .10 

WILHELM  BEBGSOE. 
Pillone  15 

"   II  15 
Tritons,  Part  1  15 

BJ'OBNSTJEBNE  BJOBNSON. 

"   II  15 

WM.  CABLETON. 
*Willy  Reilly  20 
Mrs.  CHAMPNEY. 
Bourbon  Lilies  80 

"       "  II...  15 

tOur  Mutual  Friend,  P't  I.  .20 
"II..  20 
Pickwick  papers,  Part  I.  ...20 
F          "  II..  ..20 
tPictures  f  rom  Italy  15 

Ariie  10 

WILLIAM  BLACK. 

•A  Daughter  of  Heth  20 
An  Adventure  in  Thule  and 
Marriage  of  Moira  Fergus  10 
•A  Princess  of  Thule  20 
"(ireen  Pastures  and  Picca- 
dilly                                    20 

V7ILIIE  COLLINS. 

•The  Moonstone,  Part  I  —  10 
"  II....  10 
•The  New  Magdalen  20 

tSketches  of  Young  Coup-    . 

tSomeoody's  Luggage,  Mrs. 
Lirriper's  Lodgings  and 

*In  Silk  attire  20 

tThe  Battle  of  Life.etc  10 
The  Cricket  on  the  Hearth,  10 
tThe  Haunted  House,  etc..  10 
tThe  Haunted  Man  10 

"Maeleod  of  Dare  20 

J.  FENIMOBE  COOFEB. 

*  The  Last  of  the  Mohicans,  20 
•The  Spy  .-20 

*Shandon  Bells                       20 

tTwo  Idle  Apprentices  18 
tThe  Mudfog  Papers,  etc.  .  .10 
tUncouunereiiU  Traveller.  .20 

•Strange  Adventures  ot  a 
Phaeton,  ,  .20 

22 


'  JOHN  W.  LOVELL  COMPANY'S 


Lovell's  Librai 

"TEE  DUCHESS." 

:y  —  CONTINUED. 

OLIVEE  GOLDSMITH. 
Vicar  of  Wakefleld              10 

JOHN  P.  KENNEDY. 

"Horse  Shoe  Robinson.P't  1.15 
"    11.15 

CHAS.  KINGSLEY. 

*The  Hermits  2o 

Mrs.  GOEE. 
The  Dean's  Daughter  20 

JAMES  GBANT. 

•Leys,  Lord  Beresford  20 
•Molly  Bawn  20 

Moonshine    and   Marguer- 

*Hypatia,  Part  I    .                15 

^<            "    II  15 

*Mrs.  Geoffrey  20 

Miss  MAEGAEET  LEE. 

*Portia;   or,   by    Passions 
Rocked                                 20 

LUDOVIC  HALE7Y. 
L'Abbe  Constantin      20 

Lord  DUFFEEIN. 

Letters   from   High    Lati- 
tudes              20 

Miss  E.  LYNN  LINTON. 

THOMAS  HAEDY. 

EENEY  ¥.  LONGFELLOW. 

CEOBaE  ELIOT. 
*Adam  Bede  Part  I             15 

MAEION  EAELAND. 
Housekeeping  and  Home- 

Outer  Mer      ...             .20 

"            "       n  15 

SAMUEL  LOVEE. 

Brother  Jacob,  and  Mr.  Gil- 
fll's  Love  Story  10 

JOSEPH  HATTON. 
*Clytie  20 

Daniel  Deronda,  Part  1  20 
"       n  20 
Felix  Holt  20 

HENEY  CLAY  LUKENS. 

Middleraarch,  Part  1  20 

"                  "II           .20 

LEONABD  HENLEY. 
*Lif  e  of  "Washington  20 

*Jets  and  Flashes  20 
LOED  LYTTON. 

*  Alice  ;  a  sequel  to  Earnest 

"           "    II  15 

The  Mill  on  the  Floss,  P't  1.15 
"              "                "    n.15 

PAXTON  HOOD. 

Maltravers  20 

*The  Spanish  Gypsy,  jubal, 

'Earnest  Maltravers  20 

HOEEY  AND  WEEMS. 
*Lif  e  of  Marion  20 

P.  W.  FAEEAB,  D.  D. 

"           "    II  15 

•Seekers  after  God  20 
•Early  Days  of  Christianity 
Part  1.20 
Do.              do.           "  11.20 

JOHN  FEANZLIN. 

EOBEET  EOUDIN. 

The  Tricks  of  the  Greeks 
Unveiled  20 

*Last  Days  of  Pompeii  20 
tLast  of  the  Barons,  Part  1.15 
"             "             "    11.15 
Lady  of  Lyons  10 

Leila;  or,  the  Siege  of  the 

STANLEY  HUNTLEY. 
The  Spoopendyke  Papers..  20 

WASHINGTON  IEVING. 
*The  Sketch  Book  20 

tLucretia  20 

OCTAVE  FEUILLET. 
A  Marriage  in  High  Life.  .  .20 

EMILE  GABOBIAU. 

fMy  Novel,  Part   I    .  ,           20 

"            "II                 20 

"            "       III  20 

Night  and  Morning,  P't  I...  15 
*Paul  Clifford                         20 

Miss  HAESIET  JAY. 
The  Dark  Colleen  20 

tPelham  20 

•Monsieur  Lecoq,  Part  I.  .  .20 
"             "           "    II...  20 
•Other  People's  Money  20 
Promise  of  Marriage  10 
•The  Gilded  Clique  20 

tPilgrims  of  the  Rhine  15 
Richelieu        .              10 

SAMUEL  JOHNSON. 

Rienzi  Part  I                         15 

"    II  15 
tThe  Caxtons,  Part  1  15 

•The  Lerouge  Case  20 
•The  Mystery  of  Oreiral.  ...20 

EENBY  GEOEGE. 
Progress  and  Poverty  20 

CHAELES  GIBBON. 

•The  Golden  Shaft  20 

Rasselas  10 

EDWAED  KELLOGG. 

The  Coming  Race  10 
tThe  Disowned              ..     ..20 

The  Haunted   House,   and 
Calderon  the  Courtier  10 
tThe  Parisians,  Part  1  15 
"       11  15 
tWhat  will  He  do  with  it, 
Part  I,  20 
Do.          do.           "  II,  20 
•Zan^ni  20 

GEACE  KENNEDY. 
Dunallan,  Part  1  15 

"    II  15 

DISCRIPTIVE  CATALOGUE. 


23 


Lovell's  Librai 

A.  MATHEY. 

Duke  of  Kandos..  20 
The  Two  Duchesses  20 

ry  —  CONTINUED. 

Eetecca  Fergus  Eedd. 
Freckles  20 

Sir  EANDALL  X.  EOBEETS. 

Harry  Holbrooke  20 

tHistory  of  PendennIs,Pt  1  20 
"   H20 
Henry  Esmond  20 
tlrish  Sketches  20 

W.  E.  MAYO. 

Lovel,  the  Widower    ....    10 

tMen's  Wives  10 

Novels  by  Eminent  Hands, 
etc  .10 

JUSTIN  E.  McCAETHY. 
An  Outline  of  Irish  History  10 

EDWAED  MOTT. 
*Pike  County  Folks              20 

Mrs.  BOWSON. 
Charlotte  Temple  10 

tParis  Sketches  15 
tRoumlabout  Papers  20 
tThe  Adventures  of  Philip, 
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lt         II  20 
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27 


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i  vol.,  121110.  paper  covers,  Lovell's  Library,  No.  130 20  cts. 

Newton  (Rev.  R  Heber). 

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32  JOHN  W.  LOWELL   COMPANY'S 

North,  Christopher  (Prof.  John  Wilson). 

Noctes  Ambrosianae.     By  CHRISTOPHER  NORTH  (Prof  JOHN 

WILSON).     Selected  and  arranged  by  JOHN  SKELTON.     i  vol.,  izmo,  cloth, 
black  and  gold - 50  cts. 

Lord  Cockburn  said  of  these  famous  and  unique  essays,  "  There  is  not  so 
cusious  and  original  a  work  in  the  Knglish.  or  Scotch  languages.  It  is  a  utost 
singular  atid  delightful  outpouring  of  critcicism,  politics,  and  descriptions  of 
feeling,  character  and  scenery,  of  verse  and  prose,  and  maudlin  eloquence,  and 
especially  of  mild  fun.  It  breathes  the  very  essence  of  the  Bacchanalian  revel 
of  clever  men,  and  its  Scotch  is  the  best  Scotch  that  has  been  written  in  modern 
times." 

Nuttall  (P.  Austin). 

The  Standard  Pronouncing  Dictionary  of  the  English  Lan- 
guage, comprising  many  thousands  of  new  words,  which  modern  literature, 
science,  art  and  fashion  have  called  into  existence  and  usage,  compiled  and 
edited  by  P.  AUSTIN  NUTTALL,  LL.D.  i  vol.,  izmo,  928  pp.,  cloth.  .  $i  25 

Oliver  Twist. 

By  CHARLES  DICKENS.     With  numerous  illustrations,     i  vol., 

I2mo,  cloth,  gilt 75  cts. 

Ossian's  Poems. 

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illustrated,  cloth,  gilt,  gilt  edges $i  23 

Oliphant  (Mrs.) 

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cloth,  gilt  $i  oo 

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"Ouida." 

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i  vol.,  I2mo,  paper  covers 50  cts. 

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Red  Line  Edition.,  i  vol.,  12010,  red  edges i  °« 


DESCRIPTIVE    CATALOGUE.  33 

Plutarch.' s  Lives  of  Illustrious  Men. 

Plutarch's  Lives  of  Illustrious  Men,  with  a  Life  of  Plutarch. 

Translated  from  the  Greek,  by  JOHN  DRYDEN  and  others.  The  whole  care- 
fully revised  and  corrected.  Print.jd  from  new  stereotype  plates,  large  clear 
type,  on  good  paper,  and  tastefully  bound.  3  vols.,  121110,  600  pages,  cloth, 

gilt,  in  box $•".«<> 

3  vols.,  i2ino,  half  calf 900 

Library  Edition,  3  vols.,  8vo,  600  pages  each,  printed  on  extra  superfine  paper, 
bound  in  cloth,  gilt  top  $6  oo 

"  PlutarcKs  Lives  is  one  of  the  few  truly  great  books  of  the  world.  No 
other  one  work  among  the  classics  has  contributed  to  English  Literature  so  much 
from  the  rich  stores  of  ancient  lore.  Shakespeare  obtained  from  it  the  material 
for  several  of  his  greatest  flays,  and  innumerable  authors,  great  and  small,  in 
every  age,  have  made  large  drafts  upon  it  for  knowledge  and  inspiration. 

"•  His  business  was  not  to  please  the  ear,  but  to  instruct  and churm  the  mind; 
and  in  this  none  i  ver  excelled  him.  The  work  which  has  immortalized  Plutarch 
is  his  Lives  of  forty-six  Creeks  and  Romans." — Cycl.  Brittanica, 

Pole  (William). 

The  Theory  of  the  Modern  Scientific  Game  of  Whist.  By 

WILLIAM  POLE,  F.  R.  S.,  Mus.  Doc.,  Oxon,  to  which  is  added  Rules  of  the 
Portland  Club,  i  vol.,  i6mo,  cloth,  gilt 75  cts. 

Text  books  on  games  are  common  enough,  but  when  a  game  assumes  the 
dignity  of  a  science  as  Whist  does,  they  are  a  necessity.  Pole's  treatise  on  Whist 
is  an  authority  without  which  no  lover  of  the  game  can  consider  his  knowledge 
of  it  perfect. 

Pops  (Alexander). 

The  Poetical  Works  of  ALEXANDER  POPE.  Red  lane  Edition, 
i. vol.,  izmo,  cloth,  black  and  gold $i  23 

Homer's   Odyssey.      Translated    by  ALEXANDER  POPE,  with 

illustrations  by  FLAXMAN.  Red  Line  Edition,  i  vol.,  121110.  cloth,  black 
and  gold,  gilt  edges  . §i  25 

Homer's  Iliad.  Translated  by  ALEXANDER  POPE,  with 
illustrations  by  FLAXMAN.  Red  Line  Edition,  i  vol.  12010,  cloth,  black 
and  gold,  gilt  edges §i  25 

Porter  (Jane). 

The  Scottish  Chiefs.  By  JANE  PORTER.  Printed  from  new 
electrotype  plates,  large,  clear  type,  i  vol.,  iamo.  Illustrated,  cloth, 
gilt $i  oo 

//  is  to  Miss  Porter's  fame  that  she  began  the  system  of  historical  novel 
writing  which  attaint  d  the  climax  of  its  renown  in  the  hands  of  Sir  Walter 
Scott.  In  the  "  Scottish  Chiefs  "  her  genius  was  especially  successful.  Wal- 
lace, who,  through  a  variety  of  interesting  adventures,  is  carried  to  an  ajf acting 
and  tragic  end,  is  a  character  of  most  perfect  virtue  and  heroism.  As  a  10- 
mance  the  "Scottish  Chiefs"  was  deservedly  popular.  One  of  its  greatest 
admirers  was  Scott,  who  in  a.  conversation  with  George  IV.  many  years  after, 
confessed  that  it  suggested  to  him  the  inception  of  his  Waverly  novels. 

Thaddeus  of  Warsaw.     By  JANE  PORTER.    Printed  from  new 

electrotype  plates,  large  clear  type.  i  vol.,  izrno.  Illustrated,  c  oth, 
gilt ,...§100 


34  JOHN  W.  LOVELL  COMPANY'S 

Parr  (Mrs.) 

Robin,     By   Mrs.    PARR,      i   vol.,    i6mo,    cloth,    black    and 

gold 50  cts. 

Also  in  paper  covers,  Lovell's  Library,  No.  42 20  cts. 

Paul  and  Virginia,  Vicar  of  Wakefield 

and  Rasselas. 

Paul  and  Virginia,  Vicar  of  Wakefield  and  Rasselas.  Three 

volumes  in  one.     i  vol.,  I2mo,  illustrated $i  oo 

Procter  (Adelaide). 

The  Poetical  Works  of  ADELAIDE  A.  PROCTOR.     Printed  from 

new  electrotype  plates,  large  clear  type.     Red  Line  Edition,     i  vol.,  121110. 
Illustrated,  cloth,  gilt,  gilt  edges $i  25 

Miss  Procter  inherited  the  poetic  genius  of  her  father.  Never  did  fugitive 
poems  secure  such  recognition  and  success  as  her's  attained  on  their  first  publi- 
cation. They  are  instinct  with  life,  and  charming  with  reality.  Full  of 
thoughtful  seriousness,  of  grave  tenderness  and  a  delightful  fancy,  they 
recommend  themselves  to  everyone  with  a  touch  of  the  artist  in  his  composition. 
They  are  essentially  original.  There  is  only  one  living  poetess  from  whom  their 
au.hor  need  f far  competition,  and  even  then  she  need  not  fear  to  be  surpassed. 
There  are,  in  the  volume,  gems  of  as  noblf  and  perfect  poetry  as  any  in  the 
language,  gems  which  no  rivalry  tould  dim." — London  At/un&um. 

Pnnshon  (Wm.  Morley). 

Lectures  and  Sermons,  including  the  Prodigal  Son,  by  the  late 
REV.  WM.  MORLEY  PUNKHON,  LL.  1'.  ;  with  a  preface  to  the  American 
edition,  by  the  late  REV.  UisHc'i-  GII.BKRT  HAVEN.  i  vol.,  i2mo,  cloth, 
black  and  gold §i  25 

Queen  of  the  County. 

Queen  of  the  County.     By  the  author  of  Margaret  and  Her 

Bridesmaids,     i  vol.,  i2mo,  cloth,  si  t $i  oo 

i  vol.,  i2mo,  Lovell's  Library.  No.  72  20  cts. 

Roberts  (Sir  Randal  H.) 

Harry  Holbrooke.    By  Sir  R.   H.  ROBERTS,     i  vol.,   i6mo, 

Lovell's  Library,  No.  101 20  cts. 

Rosetti  (Dante). 

The  Poetical  Works  of  Dante  Rosetti.     Red  Line  Edition,     i 

vol.,  I2mo,  cloth,  gilt  edges §i  25 

Red  Line  Edition,     i  vol..  i2mo,  cloth,  red  edges i  co 

Rogers  (Samuel). 

The  Poetical  Works  of  SAMUEL  ROGERS.     Red  Line  Edition. 

i  vol.,  i2mo.     Illustrated,  cloth,  gilt,  gilt  edges  $i  25 

Russell  ( W.  Clark). 

A  Sea  Queen.     By  W.  CLARK  RUSSELL,     i  vol.,  i2mo,  cloth, 

gilt $i  oo 

i  vol..  iimo.  paper  covers 50  cts. 

Also,  in  Lovell's  Library,  No.  123 20  cts- 


DESCRIPTIVE    CATALOGUE.  35 

Rollin  (Charles). 

The   Ancient   History  of  the  Egyptians,    Carthaginians, 

Assyrians,  Babylonians,  Medes  and  Persians,  Grecians,  Mace- 
donians. By  CHARLES  ROLLINS.  This  edition  is  well  printed  and  very 
neatly  bound,  and  though  cheaper  in  price,  will  be  found  equal,  if  not 
superior  to  any  other  published.  4  Vols.,  i2mo.  789  pages,  each,  neatly 
bound  in  cloth,  gilt $6  oo 

4  vols.,   izrno,   half  calf $800 

Library  Edition,  4  vols.,  789  pages  each,  printed  on  extra  superfine  paper, 
bound  in  cloth,  gilt  top... , $12  oo 

Rollins  History  is  invaluable  as  either  a.  text  book  for  experience,  or  a. 
medium  for  the  study  of  the  time  with  which  it  deals.  It  is  to  the  dark  past 
what  Gibbon's  work  was  to  Rome,  and  what  Hume,  Macaulay  and  Knight  are 
to  English  history.  The  indorsement  of  years  of  acceptance  as  a  standard 
academic  authority  is  the  best  tribute  to  its  worth.  In  presenting  a  cheap 
edition,  complete  in  every  particular,  of  these  heretofore  costly  •volumes,  we 
supply  a  want  which  has  long  been  felt  and  has  often  appealed  for  succor.  They 
throiv  the  clearest  and  fullest  light  on  a  period  most  interesting  to  every  scholar, 
but  until  now  the  radiance  -vas  only  in  the  power  of  those  who  could  afford  to 
secure  it  at  a  classical  price,  or  who  had  time  and  patience  to  gain  it  through 
the  inconvenient  channel  of  a  public  library.  • 

Reade  (Charles). 

Single   Heart   and  Double    FSce.      By   CHARLES    READE. 

i6mo,  paper  covers.     Lovcll's  Library,  No.  28 10  cts. 

Redd  (Rebecca  Fergus). 

Freckles.     By  REBECCA  FERGUS  REDD,     i  vol.,  i6mo,  cloth, 

black  and  gold '.    50  cts. 

Also  in  paper  covers,  Lovell's  Library,  No.  16 20  cts. 

The  Brierfield  Tragedy.       By    REBECCA    FERGUS    REDD. 

i  vol.,  i2'iio,  cloth,  gilt $i  oo 

i    "          •'      paper  covers 50  cts. 

Redgauntlet. 

See  SCOTT,  SIR  WALTER. 

Robinson  Crusoe. 

The  Life  and  Adventures  of.     By  DANIEL  DEFOE,     i  vol., 

121110.     Illustrated,  cloth,  gilt $i  oo 

This  wonderful  book,  as  Rousseau  called  it.  belongs  to  the  same  exalted 
rank  in  fiction  as  Don  Quixote  and  the  Pilgrim's  Progress.  It  is  one  of  those 
works  which  ever  ripen,  but  never  grows  stale  with  age.  There  is  no  work  in 
the  Knglish  language  which  has  been  more  generally  read  or  more  univ/rsally 
admired.  People  vf  nil  classes  and  denominations  are  fascinuted by  it.  Age 
or  youth  find  in  it  aperennial  source  of  amusement  and  of  interest.  It  has  an 
honored  place  in  i  he  library  of  the  student  and  in  tite  garret  of  the  laborer. 
Dr.  Chalmers  defined  its  character  well  when  he  said  of  Robinson  Crusoe, 
"  Hoif  happy  that  this,  the  most  moral  oj  romances  is  not  only  the  most  charm- 
ing of  books  but  the  most  instructive. 


36  JOHN  W.  LOVELL  COMPANY'S 

Schiller.  (Johann  C.  F.  Von). 

The  Poetical  Works  of  JOHANN  C.  F.  VON   SCHILLER.     Re^ 

Line  Edition,     i  vol.,  I2rao,  cloth,  gilt  edges $i  25 

Red  Line  Edition,     i  vol.,  I2mo,  cloth,  red  edges I  o4 

Also,  see  LOVELL'S  LIBRARY. 

Scott  (Michael). 

Tom  Cringle's  Log.     By  MICHAEL  SCOTT.      i   vol.,   ismo, 

doth,  gilt , $i  oo 

paper  covers 50  els. 

Also,  in  Lovell's  Library,  paper  covers 20  cts. 

Sand  (G-eorge). 

The  Tower  of  Percemont  and  Marianne.     From  the  French 

of  GKORGK  SAND,     i  vol.,  i2mo,  cioth,  gilt $i  oo 

i  vol.,  i2mo,  paper  covers 50  cts. 

r    "         "       Lovell's  Library 20  cts. 


Simpson  (J.  Palgrave). 

Haunted  Hearts.     By  J.  PALGRAVE  SIMPSON,     i  vol.,  I2mo, 

paper  covers,  Lovell's  Library.  No.  125 10  cts. 

Schmitz  (Dr.  Leonhard). 

Schmitz's  Ancient  History.  A  Manual  of  Ancient  History 
•from  the  remotest  times  to  the  overthrow  of  the  Western  Empire,  A.D., 
476.  Ky  DR.  LEONHARD  SCHMITZ,  Ph.D..  LL.D.,  F.R.S.E.,  with  copious 
chronological  tables.  One  handsome  vol.  of  580  pages.  New  electrotype 
plates,  from  large  clear  type,  fine  paper,  handsomely  bound  in  cloth, 
gilt  $i  25 

Schmitz's  Ancient  History  is  the  master  work  of  its  learned  and  painstak- 
ing author.  Erudite,  sea* citing,  complete  in  detail,  perfect  in  arrangement 
and  graphic  /«  style,  it  forms  a  work  beyond  price  to  the  student,  andan 
auth  irity  of  infinite  value  to  nil.  No  better  estimate  could  be  farmed  of  the 
remote  period  of  the  luorlfs  history  than  is  conveyed  in  the  manual  of  the  tutor 
of  the  Prince  of  Wales,  the  pupils  of  the  illustrious  Nifbuhr,  the  archieologist 
ivhose  life  has  been  a.  livinglabjr  in  the  service  of  enlightenment. 


Scott  (Sir  Walter). 

The  Poetical  Works  of  SIR  WALTER  SCOTT,  including  introduc- 
tion and  notes.  Red  Line  Edition,  i  vol.,  izmo.  Illustrated,  cloth,  gilt, 
giltedges $i  25 

"  Scott  is  a  poet  truly  natural  and  heroic.  He  finds  his  scenes  in  his  native 
land,  and  his  heroes  and  hrroines  in  British  history  and  tradition.  There  is 
an  astonishing  ease,  reverence  and  brightness  in  his  verse  ;  his  poems  are  a  suc- 
cession of  historical  figures,  with  nil  the  well-defined  proportions  of  statues, 
but  which  speak  and  net  according  to  the  will  of  the  poet.  No  one,  since  the 
days  of  Homer,  A>is  sung  with  such  an  impetuous  ami  burning  breath  the 
muster,  the  march,  the  onset,  and  all  the  fiery  vicissitudes  o/  battle."— AllaH 
Cunningham. 


DISCKIPT1VE  CATALOGUE. 


37 


The  Waverley  Novels.   Illustrated  Editions.  New  electrotype 

plates,  large  clear  type,    uniform   with   Lovell's   editions  of   Dickens  and 
Thackeray,  making  these  the  best  and  cheapest  editions  published. 


I.  Waverly. 
II.  Woodstock. 

III.  Quentin  Durward. 

IV.  Black  Dwarf   and    Old 

Mortality. 

V.  Bride  of  Lammermoor, 
and  Legend  of  Mont- 
rose. 

VI.  Chronicles  of  the  Canon- 
gate,  etc. 
VII.  Zenilworth. 
VIII.  St.  Ronan's  Well. 
IX.  Guy  Mannering. 
X.  Anne  of  Geierstein. 


XI.  Bob  Roy. 
XII.  Heart  of  Midlothian. 

XIII.  Ivanhoe. 

XIV.  The  Talisman. 

XV.  The  Abbott. 

XVI.  The  Monastery. 
XVII.  Fortunes  of  Nigel. 

XVTII.  Count  Robert  of  Paris. 
XIX.  Redgauntlet. 
XX.  The  Pirate. 
XXI.  Fair  Maid  of  Perth. 
XXII.  The  Antiquary. 

XXIII.  Peveril  of  the  Peak. 

XXIV.  The  Betrothed. 


Library  Edition.    Printed  on  fine  paper,  fully  illustrated,  and  beautifully  bound 

making  this  the  best  edition  published.  24  vols.,  cloth,  gilt $30  oo 

Half  Calf 6000 

The  same.    Popular  Edition.     Two  vols.  in  one.     12  vols,  cloth,  gilt.. .    1800 
Half  Calf .3600 

Also  published  separately. 

Ivanhoe.     By  SIR  WALTER  SCOTT,  Bart,     i  vol.,  i2mo,  cloth, 
black  and  gold §i  oo 

Waverley.    By  SIR  WALTER  SCOTT,  Bart,   i  vol.,  lamo,  cloth, 

black  and  gold $i  oo 

Redgauntlet.     By  SIR  WALTER   SCOTT,  Bart,    i  vol.,  i?mo, 

cloth,  black  and  gold $i  oo 

Scribe  (Eugene). 

Fleurette.    By  EUGENE  SCRIBE,  translated  by  FRANK  P.  CLARK, 

i  vol.,  i6mo,  cloth,  black  and  gold 50  cts. 

Also  in  paper  covers,  Loveli's  Library  No.  22 20  cts. 


Scottish.  Chiefs. 

By  JANE  PORTER,     i  vol.,  i2mo.    Illustrated,  cloth,  gilt.  $i  oo 


38  JOHN  W.  LOVELL  COMPANY'S 

Shakespeare. . 

The  Complete  Works  of  WILLIAM  SHAKESPEARE.     Arranged  in 

their  chronological  order.  EDITED  by  W.  G.  CLARK  and  W.  ALOIS 
WRIGHT.  With  an  introduction  to  each  play,  adapted  from  the  Shakes- 
pearian Primer  of  Prof.  Dowden.  Beautifully  illustrated  by  JOHN  GILBERT, 
R.  A.  With  a  complete  Glossary.  Arundel  Edition,  i  vol.,  1,238  pages, 

square,  8 vo,  cloth $2  oo 

Ditto,  cloth  extra,  gilt  edges , 2  50 

Complete  Works.     Red   Line  Edition.      In  one  vol.,  121110.      Uniform  with 

Lovell's  edition  of  the  Poets.     Cloth,  gilt,  gilt  edges $i  25 

Handy  Volume  Edition.  Printed  from  new  electrotype  plates,  large,  clear 
type,  bound  in  green  cloth,  limp,  red  edges.  13  volumes  in  a  neat  cloth 
case $7  50 

Shelley  (Mary  Walstonecroft). 

Frankenstein;    or  the   Modern    Prometheus.      By  MARY 

WOLSTONECROFT  SHELLEY,     i  vol.,  i6mo,  cloth,  black  and  gold...  50  cts. 

Also  in  paper  covers,  Lovell's  Library,  No.  5 10  cts. 

Shelley. 

The  Poetical  Works  of  PERCY    BYSSHE  SHELLEY.      Red  Line 

Edition,     i  vol.,  121110,  illustrated,   cloth,  gilt,  gilt  edges $i  25 

"  No  one,  unacquainted  with  Shelley,  can  be  aware  of  the  Jull  richness  and 
melody  of  our  language.  His  poetry  seems  not  to  have  been  an  art,  but  an  inspi- 
ration, We  doubt  whether  any  modern  pjet  has  possessed  in  an  equal  degree 
the  highest  qualities  of  the  great  ancient  masters.  No  poet  wes  ever  warmed 
by  a  more  genuine  or  unforced  inspiration.  His  e  vtreme  sensibility  gave  the 
intensity  of  passion  to  his  intellectual  pursuits,  and  rendered  his  mind  keenly 
alive  to  every  perception  of  outiuard  objects,  as  well  as  to  his  internal  sensa- 
tions."— Macaulay. 

Songs,  Sacred  and  Devotional. 

Songs,  Sacred  and  Devotional,  with  many  of  the  poems  by 
American  Authors.  Red  Line  Edition,  i  vol.,  12010,  illustrated,  cloth, 
gilt,  gilt  edges £1*5 

Some  of  the  sweetest  songs  in  the  English  Linguage  are  those  written  with 
a  purely  religious  inspiration.  In  this  collection  the  great  number  of  these  has 
been  explored  and  culled  of  its  finest  specimens.  Instinct  with  spiritual  feel- 
ing, they  form  a  library  of  lays  such  as  has  never  been  gathered  together  before. 

Splendid  Advantages  of  being  a  Woman, 

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DISCRIPTIVE  CATALOGUE.  39 

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WAVERLET. 
WOODSTOCK. 
BLACK  DWARF. 
OLD  MORTALITT. 
QUENTIN  DURWARD. 
BRIDE  OF  LAMMERMOOR. 
LEGEND  OF  MONTROSE. 
CHRONICLES  OF  THE  CANON- 
GATE. 

KENILWORTH. 
ST.  RONAN'S  WELL. 
GUT  MANNERING. 
ANNE  OF  GEIERUTEIN. 


12  volumes.     12mo.     Cloth,  gilt, 
12        "  "          Half  calf, 


ROB  ROT. 

HEART  op  MIDLOTHIAN. 
VII.    IVANHOE. 

THE  TALISMAN. 
VIII.    THE  ABBOT. 

THE  MONASTERT. 
IX.    FORTUNES  OF  NIGEL. 

COUNT  ROBERT  OF  PARIS. 
X. "  REDGAUNTLET. 

THE  PIRATE. 
XI.    FAIR  MAID  OF  PERTH. 

THE  ANTIQUARY. 

XII.    PEVERIL  OF  THE  PEAK. 

THE  BETROTHED. 

$18.00 
.     36.00 


New  York:  JOHN  W.  LOVELL  CO.,  14,  &  16  Vesey  St. 


46 


GEORGE  ELIOTS  WORKS. 

The  Complete  Works  of  George  Eliot,  beautifully  printed  from 
large,  clear  type,  on  good  paper,  and  handsomely  bound  in  cloth.. 


I.  MlDDLEMABCH. 

II.  DANIEL  DERONDA. 

III.  ROMOLA. 

IV.  FELIX  HOLT. 
V.  ADAM  BEDE. 


VI.    THE  MILL  OK  THE  FLOSS. 
VII.    SCENES  FROM  CLERICAL  LIFE 

AND  SILAS  MABNEB. 
VIII.    THE  SPANISH  GTPSEY,  JTJBAL 

AND        OTHEB        POEMS,       AND 

THEOPHBAbiua  SUCH, 


8  volumes,  12mo,  cloth,  black  and  gold,    . 

8         "  "on  better  paper,  cloth,  gilt  top, 

8         "  "      "  half  calf, 

The  Poetical  Works  of  George  Eliot.    Red  Line  Edition. 
1  vol.,  12mo,  cloth,  gilt  edges,  .... 

Red  Line  Edition,  1  vol.,  12rao,  cloth,  red  edges, 


$10.00 
12.00 
24.00 


$1.25 
1.00 


"THE  DUCHESS"  WORKS. 

The  Complete  Works  of  "The  Duchess,"  an  attractive,  uniform 
edition  of  this  popular  writer's  works,  printed  from  entirely 
new  plates,  handsomely  bound. 


I.    MOLLY  BAWN. 
II.    PHYLLIS. 
III.    AIBY  FAIBY  LILIAN. 
IV.    FAITH  AND  UNFAITH. 


V.    BEAUTY'S  DAUGHTERS. 
VI.    PUBTIA,      OB     BY     PASSIONS 

ROCKED. 

VII.    MBS.  GEOFFBEY. 
VIII.    Lovs,  LORD  BEBRESFOBD. 


8  volumes,  12mo,  cloth,  gilt,  in  box, 
8        "  "      half  calf, 


$8.00 
20,00 


Any  volume  sold  separately  in  cloth,  price,  §1.00  ;  paper,  50  cents.    The  above 
arc  also  issued  in  LOVELL'S  LIBRARY.    Price,  per  vol.,  20  cents. 
Monica  and  other  Tales.    By  THE  DUCHESS.    1  vol.  12mo,  LOVELL'S  LIBRARY, 
No.  86, lOcts. 

Moonshine   and    Marguerites.     By  THK  DUCHESS.     1  vol.  12mo,  LOVELL'S 
LIBRABY,  No.  132,       .        ,  10  cts. 


New  York;  JOHN  W.  LOVELL  CO.,  U  &  16  Vesey  St. 


4? 


LORD  LYTTON'S  WORKS. 

The  Complete  Works  of  Lord  Lytton,  printed  from  entirely  new 
electrotype  plates,  handsomely  bound  in  cloth,  gilt.  The  best 
and  cheapest  edition. 


I.    KY  NOVEL. 

II.    LAST  DATS   or  POMPEH  AND 
HABOLD. 

III.    A  STRANGE  STOBY,  THE  HAUNT- 
ED HOUSE  AMD  ZANONI. 

ERNEST      MALTRAVERS      AND 
ALICE. 


IV. 
V. 

VI. 


PAUL  CLIFFORD  AND  , EUGENE 
ARAM. 

NIGHT     AND    MOBNING    AND 

GrODOLPHIN. 


VII.  LAST  OP  THE  BARONS,  PAU- 
BANIAS  AND  CALDEBON  THE 
COURTIER. 

VIII.    DEVEHEUX  AND  THE  DISOWNED 
IX.    PELHAM  AND  LUCBETIA. 
X.    WHAT  WILL  HE  DO  WITH  IT. 

XI.  KENELM      CHILLINGLY      AKD 

RlENZI. 

XII.  THE  CAXTONS,   THK    COMING 

RACE  ANB  LEILA. 

XIII.    THE  PARISIANS  AND  PILGRIMS 
or  THE  RHINE. 


13  volumes,  12mo,  cloth,  gilt,  .         .         .         $19.50 

13  "  "       fine  laid  paper,  cloth  gilt,  top,      26.00 

13          "          "       half  calf,     ....          39.00 

WILLIAM  BLACK'S  WORKS. 

The  Complete  Works  of  William  Black,  printed  from  entirely 
new  electrotype  plates,  handsomely  bound  in  cloth,  black  and 
gold. 


I.  A  PRINCESS  OP  THULE. 

II.  A  DAUGHTEB  OP  HETH. 

III.  STRANGE   ADVENTURES    or 

PHAETON. 

IV.  MADCAP  VIOLET. 
V.  WHITE  WINGS. 

VI.  KILMENY. 

VII.  SUNRISE. 

VIII.  THAT  BEAUTIFUL  WBETCH. 


IX.    IN  SILK  ATTIRE. 
X.    THE  THREE  FEATHBRS. 
XI.    GREEN  PASTURES  AND    PMOA- 

DILLY. 
XII.    MACLEOD  OP  DABB. 

XIII.  SHANDON  BELLS. 

XIV.  YOLANDE. 

XV.    THE     MONARCH    or    MINCING 
LANE. 


15  volumes,  12mo,  cloth,  black  and  gold,     .        .     $15.00 

15        "  "      half  calf,     ....  37.50 

Any  volume  sold  separately,  in  cloth,  price,  $1.00 ;  paper,  50  cte. 

New  York:  JOHN  W.  LOVELL  CO.,  14  &  16  Vesey  St. 


UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA  LIBRARY 
Los  Angeles 


H0\ 


ANGEs, 


Form 


3  1158  00507  1492 


SY  FACILITY 


